My idea of the center branch may be different than yours, but if you mean the first live branch coming out the front, the first to branches off of that make a bar branch and I would remove the left side. As you wire and position branches, I think you will want the one on the right.

Pardon my poor manners. I wanted to include that it appears to be some very wonderful material to work with. Lots of potential!

Thanks. What you said makes sense.

Your suggestion would counter balance the trunks direction. I like it.

The 'dead' (no sprouts) low and center branch will be cut. I am then unsure about how to train for a leader branch.

I thought about cutting the 3" top stub and using the second T branch as the start to my leader. The branch in the back I would just leave alone for now to give the tree a break.

???

Thanks,

Kevin.

If you can cut the trunk top on an angle, leaving 1-2" to 'feed' branches below it, that might give it all a more graceful look.

You don't have to decide on a leader right now. Maybe it will be more clear to you later. If you fancy the work of Graham Potter, you might take a dremmel to that stub in front and the hole next to it- that's all beyond my experience, but it looks like prime real estate for the "suffering" theme in classic bonsai.

On the off chance you haven't seen GP at work, check this out for an idea!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BHIvEFiuJNo

I would cut the stump to just above that front branch and reduce all the other branches to two buds, force some back budding. Privet respond well to heavy pruning.

Nice work!

Did you buy the tree or dig it? If you lifted it yourself, when did you lift it? If it was my tree, I wouldn't hesitate to remove all the heavy top so the truncated branch growing almost vertically off the stump was the leader. THAT could make a very impressive tree within 2-3 years.

Al

Tree came from a dig out along railroad enbankment. Hmmm. So your thinking the short branch on the right could be the leader? By cutting an almost vertical cut along left of that branch? Or or maybe 30 degrees SouthWest? The branch on the left is certainly going, I just didnt think to further toward the right limb.

That's a real find. It looks pretty freshly lifted?? You understood what I was thinking would make the best tree; and I was thinking the heavy branch on the left would have to go, too.

I don't know if you have a lot of trees, but the more you have the less it hurts to sacrifice what could be a nice tree in a couple of years for what could be a spectacular tree in a couple of years more. As you grow in the art, you come to realize it's most important to help the tree realize it's full potential, even if you know you'll never be the one who brings it to fruition. Like planting a shade tree under whose shade you know you'll never sit.

That's in no way a lecture, or even a recommendation (about the coursed I'd set the tree on). If you haven't already grown to the point of putting the tree first, you have something to look forward to.

Al

I would leave the branches as they are now. The tree has good shape, it looks like a big tree from afar! Of course you could change direction; its a strong, quick growing species that isnt fazed by pruning.

Thanks Talpa and GreenLarry. I am new to the world of Bonsai.

I have Two (2) Japanese Maples in training that I put in the ground last fall and one of them snapped its leader down to a 3" stub from heavy snow/ice and the other one did now survive the winter. I sometimes wonder if I should have just left them in the pots instead of planting in the ground. The one that snapped; however, is now growing like crazy with new shoots and foliage.

I also have a juniper that I put back in the ground to help it grow more in size. The juniper is doing well and survived the winter.

The Privet I actually just left it on the deck covered in leaves. I thought that might be the one not to make it, but it shot into spring very quickly.

I have two overgrown azeleas that I am digging out to help improve my backyard landscaping and if I can salvage anything I plan to pot one or two trunks.

Do either of you have an opinion or tricks to beating the cold winter? I live in 7A and we had one of the coldest winters I can remember, spring too for that matter.

I have an unconditioned enclosed portch but I killed a juniper 2 winters ago in that room since I forgot to water it and sunlight is poor.

Thanks.

I think Japanese maples do well planted out if they are small because they are very slow growing. They just dont thicken up in a pot

If rabbits and other vermin aren't an issue, or you can protect your trees, anything hardy to zone 6 or colder should be ok in containers just sitting on the ground & mulched lightly. You can also winter in an attached, unheated garage. Everything I have that isn't tropical (overwinter inside, under lights) or hardy enough to stay outdoors gets a winter's rest in the garage. You can also bury things you're worried about, pot & all, in the beds or garden; or, you can bury plants on the north side of a heated building, preferably out of the wind, and pick up a zone in hardiness.

Plants thicken nicely in pots if the pots are large enough, we don't over-prune them, and the plants aren't left to get rootbound. If you keep the pots shaded, fertilize regularly, and don't allow roots to get congested to the point that you can lift the entire root/soil mass from the pot intact, the plants will add girth nearly as quickly as those planted out.

Those new to bonsai often seek as close to instant gratification as they can get, and there is absolutely nothing wrong with that - it's just part of the process and how 99% of the people who love bonsai started. Have fun. Focus on learning enough that you can keep your trees alive. Ultimately, it's the frustration of not being able to keep your plants viable and healthy that causes people to turn their back on such a rewarding pastime.

Al