That's a bit of a switch! Typically most soils have adequate levels of P, unless they were previously heavily farmed and it is often K that is in short supply. Additional N is pretty much a given for any soil. Nonetheless, that fertilizer recommendation seems reasonable. I wouldn't be overly concerned about the excess K - potassium is mobile in plants and can be taken up in quantities greater
than needed for optimal growth. It's referred to as "luxury consumption". Plant available potassium is constantly changing in the soil and is
dependent on many factors which are interconnected so the levels reflected in the lab analysis may not be the same if tested next week or next month.

Just a caution about the additions of P. Phosphorus high ferts have been determined to be a major pollutant of groundwater, streams and rivers and their application has been restricted in a number of states (Illinois, Maine, Maryland, Michigan, Minnesota, New Jersey, New York, Vermont, Virginia, Washington, and Wisconsin.) Scotts has peremptorily removed P from all its lawn fertilizer products as a result. But even those states where it is restricted or in some cases, banned, its application is still permitted with soils that test deficient.

Thanks! I sent my extension agent the report, and since I posted this question, she's replied. She's a little confused at the results because even though it was 2 different samples for 2 different sample areas (our front lawn) and a rear pasture/field, which borders a river, it seems to be a condensed report. I have asked her if maybe I should send them 2 different samples (NOT mailed in the same mailing box) because I'm expecting the results would differ (the front lawn soil being much more clay than the pasture). I agree with your comments regarding P. I am cautious about it, especially since we live next to a river. I want to be a good steward of the land. So to that point, I don't want to needlessly add P to specifically our front lawn if I really don't need it. With our clay soil, I'm a little surprised our pH is as high as it is, but perhaps that's because they did indeed combine my samples.

Just use superphosphate and urea, and amend with fall leaves, which have relatively low nutrient content.

What glib said. Also, bone meal is another way to get P into the soil. It's a low solubility form so it takes awhile for it to work, but it will not run off like soluble P. We used bone meal on our clay when our dwarf fruit trees didn't bloom and it worked. If you have clay soil, P sticks pretty well and you won't have to add it forever like you might with N. In fact, you can overshoot, so you'll want to test again after several years of moderate additions to see where you're at.

Thanks all. Per my ext agent's recommendations, I called the Agro lab and the results are not combined as the ext agent thought (they just look different b/c the lawn results are in a homeowner-friendly format and the pasture/field results are in a farmer-friendly format). But yes, we do have clay soil, so we'll give it a try. I'm guessing no one has done much with this yard in at least 10 years.

Why would you put leaves on a lawn? Amending bare soil, yes. Or using as a mulch on planting beds. Even using ground leaves on a lawn is not very productive unless you have aerated first. All they do is smother the grass unless you can get them down into the root zone.

I'd also have reservations about using a superphosphate. When you apply soluble phosphorus fertilizers, such as super phosphate, to
the soil, chemical reactions cause this readily available phosphorus to
revert to forms that are not available to growing plants. This is called fixation. This means
the benefit of phosphorus fertilizer decreases steadily after
application. Consequently, you need to apply phosphorus fertilizers at the proper
time and during certain seasons to minimize losses caused by fixation. This is also the type of phosphorus product that directly relates to leaching and water pollution. I'd opt for a lower concentrate or preferably, an organic source like the bone meal.

Consider 16-20-0 which also has about 10 - 15% sulfur if I remember correctly. It's my preferred rose fertilizer.

Regarding leaves on the lawn; I have both, mowed leaves into the grass in the fall, and shredded leaves in a chipper/shredder and spread them on the grass under an oak tree. In both situations, the leaves were completely gone by spring and the grass was visibly healthier and greener than the surrounding area. I have heard that earthworks are the culprits. :)

Wow, thanks kimmq, I'll try what you recommended!! The second half of the sample report (labeled "pastr") is what borders the river. It has been previously used as a horse pasture, and we hoped to do the same, but with the flood plain being there, we can't find a good place to build a barn outside of the floodplain. So I don't think we'll be able to use it as we intended, therefore, all that field may do is grow grass. In light of that, I'm not really too interest in amending the soil there since it seems to be doing pretty well - the grass is very green and knee high right now on that piece of our property. It's the "front" area that I'd like some help with, and I don't disagree at all that it probably needs some heavy compost/organic matter. The grass is very sparse, which of course means there are plenty of weeds. It's about a 2+ acre area. I may have to hit up some of my horse friends for compost...

But thanks again, you were WAY more helpful than my extension agent, who basically just said "go buy the 5-10-5 or similar" that was recommended!!