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bphansen

Wolf DF vs. Thermador Pro Grand DF vs. Miele DF vs. BlueStar ranges

11 years ago

I'm a long-time lurker but am finally ramping up my kitchen update. I'm been test-driving a lot of ranges lately and wanted to share my initial thoughts. I'd be thrilled to get additional feedback and comments.

First, a little background...I'm replacing a 30" 4-burner gas cooktop and double electric ovens, but due to my small kitchen (and the fact that we're keeping our current cabinets and refinishing them) and the fact that I want 2 ovens, I'm looking at 36" ranges plus a separate 24" combi steam oven. That seems to be the combination that will maximize my overall cooking space. Initially I wanted the 48" range but realized we just couldn't fit it into our layout (would have 2" clearance on either side).

I don't have a huge passion around open vs. sealed burners (which I know is an inflammatory topic on these forums), so you may notice that some of the ranges I tried were a bit like comparing apples and oranges (BlueStar vs. the rest). I don't do a lot of wok/high heat cooking, but I'd like some higher BTU burners for when I want to do that. I also do a lot of baking, so I'm really leaning towards dual-fuel for the electric oven.

Anyway, I had a chance to cook on these ranges:

Wolf dual fuel -- this range had the best griddle/grill of anything I've tried yet. The grill gets super hot, and it appears to be really easy to clean (turn the thing up high, sear off the crud and vacuum up the ashes about a month). I'm more interested in the griddle (since we can easily access our grill outside), and I love the fact that the Wolf has temperature control but it's gas-powered (unlike the Thermador, which is electric and seemed a bit underpowered). I also like the steel surface of the Wolf (Thermador has some kind of quasi-nonstick griddle surface). I also really like the "true simmer" that Wolf offers on its burners, although I wish it had at least one burner with higher power (the Wolf burners top out at 16K BTUs).

The Wolf oven bakes beautifully -- cookies on different racks with convection were nicely browned all around (bottom and top) -- heat seemed very even. I was also happily surprised with the Wolf broiler on the DF, which is electric but has a ton of power (note that I also tried the Wolf all gas, which cooks more traditionally -- cookies brown on the bottom, lighter on top -- and has a killer broiler). Unfortunately, since I was only able to spend an hour on the Wolf, I didn't get a chance to check out its roasting capabilties for meat.

Thermador Grand Pro dual fuel -- (Full disclosure - I had a Thermador AG range about 8 years ago and hated it, but the sales guy at the appliance store really encouraged me to look at it again b/c "it's gotten a lot better" than when I owned one). The star burners were nice, and they top out at 22K BTUs, which is really nice for higher-heat cooking (in fact, I burned my broccoli on this range, since I'm not used to working with high BTU burners). The flame pattern seemed well spread out -- and in fact, the 22K one was almost licking the sides of my rather large skillet -- and effective at distributing heat (I'll admit I couldn't detect a big difference between the star burners and the Wolf round burners). Thermador has made improvements with the XLO burners, which still click on and off but didn't seem quite as annoying as they were on my old Thermador. I still like the Wolf true simmer better than the on again/off again of the XLO burners. Thermador has raised burners, which looked like they might be a bit easier to clean than Wolf's.

I tested a 48" Grand Pro with steam, but I only tried the regular oven b/c I'm looking at separate combi-steam ovens. I loved the fact that Thermador has 3 easy-glide racks in the oven (Wolf only gives you 1 and you have to pay extra for others, which seems like nickle and diming in a $10K range) -- they're really smooth and easy to use. I was very impressed with the baking capabilities of the Thermador -- again, cookies were evenly browned all over with the "convection bake" setting and probably even slightly more even than what I saw in the Wolf oven. I switched to the "convection roast" setting to try roasting a chicken with potatoes and baking the Jim Leahy "no knead" bread. The bread came out great -- golden and delicious, but the chicken was still pretty pale after 1 hr. at 450 degrees (can't even come close to the beautiful roasting I saw in the BlueStar -- Thermador was downright flabby by comparison). Loved the baking test but was pretty lukewarm on the roasting test.

BlueStar Platinum -- This was my first love, and the cooktop burners continue to astound with their ridiculous power. I don't think it would be the stove for people who are simmering sauces (Wolf is still #1 in my book for that), but I liked the industrial look and the fact that you can get up to 25K BTUs on the Platinum. It also seemed like the cleaning would be less of a pain than either Wolf or Thermador. I didn't try the grill/griddle on this, but the sales person said it wasn't great -- cold spots (b/c it just lays over 2 burners like a Lodge cast iron pan) and the grill apparently makes a huge mess (it looked like it just dripped right onto the burners and stovetop).

I'll admit that turning on this oven scared me -- it looks like an A380 taking off -- but it actually worked quite well once I got over the giant ring of blue fire in the back. BS was ok but not great when it came to baking -- cookies on different racks were unevenly browned (but not awful), and I kind of expected this with the all gas oven. Where this thing really excelled, though, was at roasting. I also did a whole chicken on potatoes with the Leahy no-knead bread, and the chicken was glorious -- incredibly crispy skin, moist meat and yummy (even though I burned a bit of the back b/c it was a bit too close to the giant oven burner; might need to rotate food more frequently in the BS b/c of that burner). And it was only 45 min. at 450 to look like this (as compared to the Thermador). If I were paleo, I'd have this range on my short list.

One thing that definitely stuck with me on the BS was that the oven door gets hot -- very hot. I had the oven on for at least 1-1/2 hrs, a good hour of that at 450, and from mid-way up the door, it was very hot to the touch (door handle, however, was fine). The little pull-out drip trays under the burners were even hotter (needed a pot mitt to touch/open). This may not turn everyone off, but it did make me wonder about the insulation in this particular range (and I wasn't sure I wanted that one in my house with kids either).

Miele dual fuel -- I'm testing this on May 1, so I'll have to come back with feedback later. I have examined it thoroughly in person, and it looks very promising: 19K BTUs in the highest burner, a griddle/grill that looks just about the same as the one on the Wolf, dishwasher-safe grates on top, "steam assist" in the oven (gives you a burst of steam for baking), and what looks to be the same type of true simmer as on the Wolf.

On the downside, I'm worried about purchasing a v.1 of anything; and all of those electronics right under the hot burners are concerning, since flame + electronics = bad news. I also think it's a bit unattractive (but not so unattractive that I couldn't live with it) -- and since I cook a lot, the Master Chef options are only nominally interesting to me (but might be great for someone who's a novice cook). I'm also not sold on Miele's build quality these days -- I have a Miele W/D, and I've had to have both serviced in less than 4 years. Kind of ridiculous, since you're paying the Miele premium for what's supposed to be a 20 year + appliance.

I also haven't tested combi-steam ovens yet, but I'm taking classes on both the Miele and Gaggenau in the next month (since I have no experience cooking with a steam oven). I'm only looking at those two brands b/c I believe they're the only ones that can be plumbed (at least that I'm aware of).


Comments (26)

  • 11 years ago

    It sounds like griddle cooking is important to you. You might include the BS RNB on your list as well. The silly portable griddle/grill on the Platinum would be a deal breaker for me, love my RNB griddle, gets daily use, sometimes several times a day...

  • 11 years ago

    @cookncarpenter: Thanks for the suggestion to check out the RNB. The appliance store where I tested the BlueStar only had the Platinum model hooked up, but maybe I can find the RNB live in a store near me. And you're right, I'm really leaning towards an integrated griddle -- agree that the Platinum one was a bad option. I wasn't in love with the baking in the BlueStar, though -- do you find your RNB bakes evenly?

  • 11 years ago

    Yes my RNB seems to bake evenly, although must admit I'm not a huge baker, just the usual cookies, cakes, pies etc. Roasts are great! Broiler is small but extremely hot, learning curve required, hint leave door open a bit so it does not cycle on/off. I never use convection, because the fan noise bugs me...

  • 11 years ago

    I have the Wolf DF and it was great for 4.5 years. You might want to search blue porcelain chipping on this forum. Wolf has redesigned their wall ovens with the hope that it will be fixed. They have done nothing for the DF ranges. I would love to replace mine but have not found a DF range in which I have confidence. I think you are better off to buy a range top and separate wall ovens. You can pick the best for you of each.

  • 11 years ago

    I think you are looking at pretty logical choices. And yes, I think you are looking at the only 2 combi's that are plumbed, though I have a non plumbed one and find it is extremely easy to use. One thing I would point out is that you will likely use your combi oven as an oven far more than the one in the range, unless you are cooking for large groups often. In regular convection mode, the combi will probably reach cooking temp in about 5 minutes, and while they look small, you can cook a fair amount in them. The only downsides as ovens are that most top out at 440F, and you usually can't operate in straight bake mode, you have to have convection which is not always the best choice. Even if you are making a large amount of cookies, you can buy extra trays and probably cook 4 trays at once.

  • 11 years ago

    Thanks for the comments about the Wolf porcelain chipping -- I actually thought (after reading through these forums) that this issue had been addressed in the newer ranges and ovens. Unfortunately I don't have space for a cooktop and separate double ovens, hence the range + combi-steam option.

    @barryv -- thanks for the feedback on the combi -- have you found that you're also using your cooktop less? One of the sales people told me that it would make sense to have the 4 burner + griddle for the range (which was my inclination to begin with) b/c with a steam oven you actually cook many things in the oven which you previously would cook on the stovetop (e.g. rice).

  • 11 years ago

    Bphansen, yes, I use the cook top less, but not enough to notice. I don't make rice in the combi, just because I don't make it all that often. I do steam shrimp and spinach in the combi, but again, not often enough to notice a real difference. The combi does allow some new choices though - I made two cheesecakes earlier this week and used the combi - steam only at 190F. It is like using a water bath, but you don't have to mess with filling a pan with water, or leaking, and the steam surrounds the entire cheesecake, not just part of it. You put saran wrap over the top of the cheesecake and secure it with a rubber band.

  • 11 years ago

    1. All of those ranges except BS have electronics under the burners - not just Miele

    2. Wolf enamel chipping definitely not addressed on the DF ranges -> avoid

    I would also look at:

    Capital

    American Range

    KitchenAid/JennAir

    GE Monogram

    DCS

  • 11 years ago

    You might look at a Lancanche. That's what we bought and we are very happy with it. You can even get a double oven in a pretty small package (~40" range). We got a Volnay (warming cupboard, electric oven, and 5 burner gas top with different size burners that are VERY good at heat transfer) and a Gagg combi-steam oven to go with it. Are happy with our choices, esp. the range. They have a program where owners will offer to show you their range since they only have a few showrooms (LA, Seattle, NYC). They are very configurable and also gorgeous IMHO, which doesn't hurt. Service is top notch. Ranges are beautifully built, made in France, great colors. Price...well, not cheap but worth it to us. Worth a look. Here's my favorite pic to date, taken at Thanksgiving with our 'lil sous chef. (frenchranges.com)

    Our Updated 1950s Kitchen with French Inspiration · More Info

  • 11 years ago


    "Also didn't realize that the enamel chipping was still a problem on the
    Wolf DF (which is really a bummer b/c I do love that range)."

    I loved mine and one of the reasons we bought Wolf was the service and at the time, they really stood behind their products, even past the warranty period. We were told we would not need an extended warranty for Wolf unlike the other products we bought. They will stand behind their products for two years but not past that. The DFs seem to take longer to develop the chipping and it isn't from the stress in the corners. It is directly over the elements in most cases. Either it is more difficult to address or they don't feel the necessity to address it like the wall ovens and it seems that it might actually be a profit center for their repair people. Here is the

    Consumer Affairs complaint page. I have not entered mine yet.
    Anyway so much for the "decades of service". "Empowered to resolve any issues you may have to your true satisfaction"-NOT.

    It seems difficult for the manufacturers to get an electric oven right. The more "sophisticated", the more the chance for problems. There are issues with the ovens not cooking evenly. The third element(euro or true convection) should help but sometimes it creates hot spots. Sometimes the fans can do that as well. Read the use and care manual carefully. Some ovens have a "strong" preheat and warn against putting food in the oven until preheated. My Electrolux oven has a fast preheat but it is optional. Some ovens work by preheating the oven rapidly and then use an rapidly oscillating element programmed to maintain the temperature of the oven. Unfortunately it does not have any mechanism to correct for heat loss like an oven that works on a thermostat. It cannot allow the preheat to come on because it would burn your food so it has to drop 150F before it can correct. In my experience, this actually ends up that the middle of the oven drops 200F before the difference of 150F occurs by the thermostat. If you do anything that opens and closes the door frequently, like baking cookies the temperature drifts down. Capital electric ovens are very clear in their use and care manual that they work that way but I also had a Dacor range and wall oven that worked that way. They both have the under glass elements in common. Dacor did buy my ovens back some years ago but not sure if they did or even can correct the problem. I keep hoping a DF range will come up that works as well as the Wolf to replace mine but there seem to be so many issues that I am considering all gas even though it won't be as even as the Wolf.


  • 11 years ago

    Ovens on American ranges are definitely bigger and this bigger size was a problem for me. We are only two people and I came to really love the smaller oven in my vintage range that we replaced. I love that smaller ovens heat up faster. The long heat up times on the 36" American ranges were a strike against them for me. The Cluny ovens are smaller than my oven in the Volnay which is smaller than ovens in most American ranges, including most ovens in a 30" range. You can fit a 1/2 sheet pan in the Cluny oven and it fits very comfortably in the Volnay (a few inches all around). I often roast 2 or 3 half sheet pans of veggies at the same time. Roast veggies cook faster than any other oven I've ever used (which if a lot since we moved >10 times in our 20s & 30s). I'm not sure if it's the smaller size or convection or what, but it's awesome. I love being able to roast potatoes in 25 minutes, 35 if you include the time to heat up the oven enough to get them started. Our 18lb turkey fit just fine in it. Personally the size of the Volnay oven is just perfect for us and for entertaining my family (N=13). Overall, I just love this range.

    I think one reason many like their smaller steam combi ovens is that they are smaller and heat up so much faster than their larger American oven. I expected I'd really love the Gagg, and I like it but I don't feel the same affection as I do for my Lacanche. Not sure why. I do think the combination of the two rocks. Generally, I don't like techy appliances in my kitchen. I don't want to think very hard and I want things to work simply. I didn't like all the buttons on the Miele interface. Too many to get it started IMHO. The Gagg interface was simpler and I still think its a reason its taken me a little longer to warm up to it. I still look at the manual all the time to figure out what does what and what the symbols mean (it was installed last sept). I think the same would have been true with the Miele. I think because my work life involves being a technical analyst I want the converse in my kitchen! I do like the defrost, refresh (warm up), and the precision of the exact temperature that the Gagg provides - it's a nice compliment to the Lacanche, but the Lacanche is my go to. I got the Gagg over the Miele because of the simpler interface, it was plumbed (Miele didn't have this option at the time we bought), and I got the last model (270/271) new in box with full warranty on ebay for half off. I would have gotten the Miele had I not gotten a good deal - I think the full price of the new Gagg is silly. Stainless isn't the easiest to keep clean, which is a bit of a downer. I just spent several hours cleaning it and it still isn't completely clean. If the Miele is black/dark color on the interior that'd be a plus.


  • 11 years ago

    Wow, thanks for all of the feedback on the Wolf DF -- maybe I need to reconsider the DF direction (which is where I was going b/c of the baking that I do). I did also try the Wolf gas range (when I was also testing out the DF Wolf oven), and it baked quite nicely. Again it was more "gas-style" (e.g. brown bottoms, but not all over brownness like the DF convection). As I mentioned, no idea how the Wolf roasts, though, since I only had 1 hr on it. Any idea if the Wolf gas ovens have fixed the enamel chipping issue? Looks like I may also need to look at the RNB and some of the options listed above.

  • 11 years ago

    I forgot to mention thank you for the extensive feedback on the Lacanche as well -- I might need to go to the Ambassador program to see one in action (a model different from the Cluny).

    Oh, one thing on the steam ovens (with the caveat that I haven't actually used either the Miele or Gaggenau but did look both over closely)...I totally agree that the Miele interface is too complicated. I asked the sales guy if you could control the steam % on the Miele (like you can on the Gagg), and he says, "Yes, I know I saw that," and then proceeds to spend 5 minutes clicking through different screens trying to find that capability. The Gagg interface seems a lot more user-friendly. The Miele has this perforated metal interior (I've forgotten what the salesman told me it was, but it's not stainless) that is apparently much easier to clean. The sales guy told me a story where he was cooking a steak in the steam oven (on convection) then decided to try switching to steam, which proceeded to spray hot grease and steak juice over the inside of the oven. He said it was actually quite easy to clean with a sponge. I also liked that the Miele has a feature that drains the water from the pump at the end of cooking (although it's noisy when it does this).

  • 11 years ago

    bphansen,

    The Wolf AG does not have the blue interior, so no chipping. It does have a convection fan. It is a single fan, single speed and no third element. Gas ovens are by their design better for roasting. They move more air through them so moisture is vented out which makes a drier environment and promotes the Maillard reaction for browning. The down side is more heat and moisture into your kitchen. Some electric ,wn

    ovens may compensate by having a roasting mode with the heat coming more from the top and the fan on high speed to produce similar results. One of the reasons electric ovens are better for some baking is that they hold onto added moisture or moisture from what you are baking. This is helpful in things that have to rise at least during the time it is rising. If your oven has a convection bake mode this is often using a slow fan speed. Another benefit might be if you are baking 4 trays of cookies you can use a setting called something like "pure convection" with more heat from the third element(true or European convection) to heat the trays more evenly. I also read on another post that Wolf is raising the BTUs on the DF but not the AG right away.



  • 11 years ago

    @wekick -- thanks for the coherent explanation about gas vs. electric and roasting vs. baking (which explains why that BlueStar made such a great chicken). About Wolf raising the BTUs, I called the Wolf Experience Center near me to ask about that, and they said that it's in the works but wouldn't expect to see anything for at least 2 years. So it doesn't seem that would be an option in the near term.

  • 11 years ago

    Do you mean for the AG? On the other thread, they seemed to think that it was going to be this summer for the DF.

  • 11 years ago

    Actually, I didn't specify AG or DF when I asked about the increase in BTUs -- I'll have to double-check.

    I have to admit that after starting this thread, I took a steam oven cooking class, and for part of the class the instructor was cooking on a Gaggenau induction cooktop. Man, I just fell in love with that thing -- super responsive, low lows and high highs and easy to clean. So after all of my range research, I'm thinking about completely switching gears to an induction cooktop and 30" wall oven underneath. That was my original idea but then I switched to a range after I realized that I could maximize my cooking surface with that -- but after trying induction, I'm going back that way! I'd be willing to give up a 6th burner for the responsiveness of induction. Am still testing out the Miele range, though, so maybe that will put me back on the path of the range.

  • 10 years ago

    bphansen, did you ever try the Miele 48" range? I'm trying to decide between the Miele, Thermador and Wolf 48". Th miele is new and doesn't have a lot of reviews. The Thermador ranges seem to have mixed reviews. I'm specifically interested in the pro grand steam range. Wolf seems great other than the chipping issue. Not sure which way to go...

  • 10 years ago

    Sorry, just took a look at this thread again and noticed your question...by the time I got to Miele, I had decided on induction, so I didn't give the Miele an actual test drive. I did give it a pretty thorough inspection at the Miele place, though, and thought it was a very sexy range -- and the performance seemed very similar to the Wolf dual fuel. I say that b/c the Miele also has the stacked burners, which I really liked, but the BTUs are higher than Wolf (which top out at around 16k, I believe -- Miele was closer to 20k or so -- I can't quite remember).

    The Miele ovens on the 48" range were very nice -- the smaller one is a speed oven, and the bigger one is a regular convection. The speed oven wasn't a big plus for me personally, since I really wanted a steam oven as a second oven, but there are people on this forum who love their speed ovens. One thing I really liked about the Miele oven, which Wolf doesn't have, is the burst of steam option, which is great for baking (you can program up to 3 bursts of steam for up to 6 min. each during cooking). I didn't care that much about the MasterChef options on Miele, but again, others love these. At any rate, the Miele seemed very similar to the Wolf, I liked the steam option on the oven better and liked the Miele burners better (also, if you're interested in a grill, theirs was excellent and seemed very similar to the Wolf, which I think is the best in the business). If I had stuck with a range, I would have been very tempted by the Miele.

  • 9 years ago

    Any reviews on the 36" Miele gas range?

  • 9 years ago

    Gas oven Miele reviews please.

  • 7 years ago

    I replaced my gas 48" thermador range(broke after 10 years and they couldn't fix it) with a BlueStar all gas 48" RNB (to get the integrated griddle). Even the appliance store was trying to talk me out of the BluStar. I LOVE it, I have had no issues with it in the 9 months I have had it. Cooking and baking have been a dream. If you are worried about the clean up, don't. Cleaning is so much easier than cleaning a black enameled top with stars or circles to clean around. I looked at all of the review and wanted to give my opinion for anyone currently on the market.

  • 6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    We just bought a Thermador 48” pro grand AG and the cooling fans sound like there is a jet plane in my kitchen. don’t want to pay restocking fee, but strongly considering. How loud is the BS RNB In terms of cooling fans? I read the part about getting hot, but nobody seemed to mention loud cooling fans above. appreciate any feedback

    hope all are safe during this pandemic

  • 6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    There are no cooling fans in Bluestar RNB and RCS ranges (no delicate electronics that need to be cooled).

    There is only the convection fan which is not whisper quiet, but definitely not jet engine loud either. It is quieter than my hood set to its lowest speed, but it does have a higher pitched sound. On the RNB and RCS ranges, the convection fan is only on when you decide to switch it on. On the Platinum, I think it is on whenever the oven is on (I've never used a Bluestar Platinum).

    The Bluestar doors were redesigned about four years ago and do not get appreciably hot anymore. I've not had any problem with the door on my 2016 30" RCS being too hot.

  • 5 years ago

    Curious what you ended up deciding and if happy with the decision.