The only reason to prune citrus is for esthetics; that is to make them look as you wish. You can prune them almost any way you like including topiary or bonsai; in hot climates the important thing is that you do not prune them up so as to allow the sun to hit the trunk; it can sunburn and kill the plant. Best to paint the trunks with white latex paint thinned 1:1 with water.

I wouldn't prune those at all, they look fine to me. My personal philosophy is to only prune if the tree needs it, not if I have an itchy pruning finger.

Hello, thanks for your reply.

Since I have limited space, I would like to limit it's growth to something like this.

or this...

Currently my tree looks like this.

a closer look at the growth near the stock. Question is should I cut of all those branches near the rootstock?

OK, just to let you know, that first example you gave is, imo, photoshopped. That trunk looks like the trunk from a Jade tree and they added citrus foliage to it. And the (?) lemons are much too small to be the correct proportion to the trunk and pot. So don't expect anything to look like that.

In the second example, you need to realize that tree is much, much older than your tree. Look at trunk thickness, it is probably at least 5 to 10 years old. So patience is in order here, ; )

Being in a tropical climate will help you, as the fastest growth comes with being outside all year. I think it would be best to let your trees grow free for at least a couple years before you start to prune for shape. You need to have something to prune off, and frankly your trees need more foliage for their health at this point.

If you feel like you need to do something, you can lightly tip prune the branches, ie; cut off about 2-3 inches off the tip of some branches. That can cause that branch to leaf out below the tip and sometimes produce more branches below. But don't over do it, they are young trees and need most of their foliage, and citrus fruit is grown on the tips of each branch so you will sacrifice some fruit doing this, but it will thicken up the canopy.

And if you want a tree with one trunk, you could stake that tall part on the second tree, so that it grows straight. I'd leave it staked for only one or two years though. And check the tie every two or three months so it does not get too tight.

Are you sure that is a grafted tree? It looks more like a cutting grown tree. We would need to know which it is before we can answer the question about the lower branches.

Oh dear Barb. You might be right and I might have been duped by the seller (I am a newbie in this). But I did ask the seller if the trees are grafted that they confirmed. I don't know how to identify a grafted or cuttings but am learning along the way (after I got my plants).

My questions:

1). So trees from grafting should have a bump below I presume?

2). What is the pros and cons of propagating through grafting vs cuttings vs seeds?

3). Yes, I want a trunk. But what is a stake?

4). How do I limit the height (to 3ft) if I don't prune off the top when plant is still young?

In the bottom picture. Look a the base. You will see a distinct angle line, where the tree was grafted. That picture also looks like there is at least one branch below the graft.

In your photos it's very difficult to see clearly the base of the trunk. This is where the graft may be.

Can you remove those bits of dead leaf, brush away a little of the potting soil and take some close-up photos from different sides? Then it will be possible to say more about the lower branches and any graft line.

And if that proves to be the graft line just visible, you have planted the whole thing much too deep and at the wrong angle!