If it is to the immediate north side of any buildings, shrubs, trees, or fences where it gets shaded for several hours, then no, it will never grow back in dense. If it gets 6-7 hours of direct sun per day, then it should recover weakly. If it gets more than 8 hours it should be very nice. For areas to the north of sun blockers, you might consider enlarging a flower bed or putting in a mulch bed. There are a couple other grasses that will perform well in the shade. One is St Augustine, but it has a coarse texture. The other is Shadow Turf. Shadow Turf is expensive but it spreads nicely. It is a fine bladed grass.

Do not overseed. The original grass was TIF 419 hybrid sod, but all the seed you can find is guaranteed to be a variety of common bermuda. When mixed the differences in color and texture make it look weedy. You're going to have to trust that the bermuda in the full sun will come back with the care you're describing. Water it once a week but do it deeply.

I would also throw a nice sprinkling of composted horse, cow or chicken mixed with some good topsoil and sand and water it in. Then watch it go boom!

I would apply a higher nitrogen fertilizer than the milorganite. Your grass needs a bigger jolt to get it going

Agree with neilaz. I think Milorganite is more for an established lawn. If you're trying to get it to fill in and spread, you need something with more nitrogen.

You also look like you may have a bit of a thatch problem. You can see it in the second and third pictures. It looks like little ripples/waves. That most likely is from some heavy down pours.

Well I just dethatched the yard a couple of weeks ago. Some of that might be from that. I will try and rake those ripples out.

I applied the Milorganite at double the recommended application. But should I still get someone even more powerful? Would soybean meal be better or something else?

Eric, you give me hope. Your yard is looking good!!

Jason

The ripples may not be that big of a deal. I had the same thing after a heavy rain and it went away after I mowed the grass a couple of times.

Even though you hit it with double Milo, I still think you'd need something stronger. I'm not an organic fert expert so I really can't tell you if soybean meal would do the trick. I would suggest a high nitrogen synthetic.

The strongest grain type organics are corn gluten meal and soybean meal. CGM might be cheaper in South Texas than soybean meal.

For my house in George West, I have not watered it since last October or so. The rains have been spaced just right. If you got 9 inches, I would not water again for at least 2 weeks. Keep an eye on it.

"I would also throw a nice sprinkling of composted horse, cow or chicken
mixed with some good topsoil and sand and water it in. Then watch it go
boom!"

I would not do any of that. Adding topsoil and sand will change your drainage and might result in water puddling up against the house. My inclination is to haul soil away rather than hauling it in. Compost won't hurt anything except your back and wallet. It will ruin your entire weekend and your back may hurt through to Tuesday. You get about 20x more effect from grain type fertilizers than you do from compost with 20x less work. Compost goes on at 1 cubic yard per 1,000 square feet. That's 700 pounds per 1,000 square feet. If you put down too much, I've seen really expensive bermuda lawns smothered for 2 years by applying too much compost. The grain type organics go down at 15-20 pounds per 1,000 square feet. To me compost sounds good on the outside, but there are too many risks, hassles, and cost for me to consider it.

Cottonseed meal is also on the list, with the same protein percentage as soybean meal. Down that way, it might be cheaper than soybean and will probably be far more available. Soy's more of a northern tier thing, although there are exceptions.