First off, lose the starting fluid. fastest way to wreck a small air cooled engine known. Use rattlecan carb cleaner instead.
3 possibilities... 1) there is a solenoid on the bottom of your carb which may be sticking or malfunctioning. You should hear a sharp "click" from that are when you turn ign sw to "on" position. Make sure it is functioning.

2) make sure of fuel flow to carb by disconnecting line at carb and
diverting to catch container. Pull spark plug wire(s) and make sure they
are not making a spark back to ground. Have assistant crank engine. Fuel flow s/b strong and adequate. If not, chk fuel pump/fuel filter/fuel line.

3) may have trash in carb blocking fuel flow. That will mean pulling carb, full teardown of same, overnite soak in liquid carb cleaner, a probe of EVERY orifice/passageway in each component with a small dia stiff brass wire and a magnifier followed by a thorough blowout with clean compressed air, then carb rebuilt with a new rebuild kit using only new gaskets, needles and seats.

Good luck.

how do you know you are getting fuel to the carburetor?

Vapor lock is one idea. With this condition, the engine will restart when it cools. Inspect the vacuum pulse hose to the fuel pump. Ensure the dip stick has a good seal and is secure. Test the fuel pump IAW service bulletin 750. Inspect the fuel line for kinks or blockage. Make sure fuel is fresh and is not a winter blend. Sample the fuel for presence of water.

Faulty fuel cap is less likely to be a problem since you removed to refuel. Faulty ignition is not likely since the engine started with a prime.

I pulled the fuel line as I turned it over it was flowing fine not sure what to check next

Possibly the solenoid below the carb has malfunctioned. When the key is turned on, you may here a slight click or feel it as well. It has to activate to let fuel up the tube into the engine. Or, maybe water in the fuel?

No click gonna try to replace solenoid I think if carb were dirty or blocked it would at least make an attempt to start

You may want to verify ground and 12 volts at the connector when the switch is on first. If the bowl is aluminum, you can screw it right out. Steel bowls have to be removed to service the solenoid.

rogers - the other scenario you may see when you remove the bowl/solenoid is that the solenoid plunger itself is simply gummed up and sticking - usually from dried up/jellied gasoline. If so, you can bet that same gunk is up in those small passageways in your carb making it time for the probe/clean act....