Get sedgehammer plus. You will probably need to hit it a couple of times. In my experience, in my garden and lawn, it ONLY affected the nut sedge - not the grass, not the perennials, not even the real sedges I grow. Also in my experience, nothing else works against this.

I haven't heard of that one.

Nut Sedges are sedges and evolved in wet lands but have adapted to grow in other soils quite well. Mulches help create the moist soil conditions that the Nut Sedges evolved growing in so they grow in even thicker then before. Perhaps this link about controlling Nut Sedges may be of some help.

http://www.extension.org/pages/66868/weed-profile:-yellow-nutsedge-cyperus-esculentus-and-purple-nutsedge-c-rotundus#.VWRVGs9VhBc

kimmq is kimmsr

the best advice concerning nut sedge was really easy & simple. move.

I've read several state extension bulletins & anything else I could find. it's all pretty much the same story. as I said I'm writing off he vegetable patch this year & declaring war on the nut edge. I'm actually on the verge of treating with groundclear or a similar ground sterilization. I figure it can only affect the soil so deep so after treating if I plow & disc & till I should be able to get enough viable soil on top to plant a green manure crop & maybe have a garden next year. i'll try the sedge-hammer plus & some manage & tilling 1st. this has been a 3 year ongoing fight.

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The trouble with nut sedge and chemicals is that it laughs at most of them, so you could be killing everything else, only to see the ns come right back; Round-Up, for example, does nothing. Give the sedgehammer a try before you call in the nukes.

Sedgehammer works, generally. You need a good surfactant. Roundup will kill it too, but it might take 2 or even 3 applications spread throughout the year. People don't realize when it's "returning" a few months after being killed, it's really just other tubers sprouting.

BTW I wouldn't assume sedgehammer/sedgehammer+ is safe on all non-Carex! It is not labeled as safe on anything but grasses.

has anyone tried image?

Keep in mind that the World Health Organization has labeled glyphosate products as potential carcinogens.

kimmq is kimmsr

I am aware but the threat is mostly from direct contact not residual exposure. I wear long pants, long sleeves, gloves, & a mask & pay close attention to any breezes. if it's windy I do not apply it. I try to use chemicals as seldom as possible. this is an exception.

I think I have some strategies for this weed after getting it in some free mulch from the city (Never again!).

It hates shade and cardboard will slow it down but not stop it. Other weeds shading it will slow it down.

It hates drought and even a bit of water keeps it going or revives it but keeping it dry slows it down. All bets are off if it rains.

I turned the soil 3 times and removed all visible sedge each time. Remove it before it develops 3 leaves. The underground nuts keep making new plants but continue removing until there are only a few small holdouts left. Spray these with half water half spectracide weed and grass concentrate.

Another thing that works is removing the soil and casting it into heavy shade until all the sedge expires. Then you can re use it. I have seen it struggling under the heavy shade of shrubs and eventually dying out with a few pulling or cardboard.

In the lawn would be next to impossible. Maybe kill the grass and keep turning the soil and removing sedge plants a few times, keep covered with cardboard and then spray what's left, then move on to the next section until it's all gone. This is the toughest weed I ever fought.

I sprayed with spectracide,& as stated covered it with 2 layers of corrugated cardboard, & covered that with 3-4" of sawdust. It grew right threw it. tried to solarize it with heavy duty clear plastic..........poked right threw it it grew threw 3 stacked bags of humus & was GREEN even when denied sunlight. lastly I sprayed it 3 times with image & gave it a heavy dose of 43-00-00 fertilizer hoping to burn it with an overdose of nitrogen. in the center of my garden I burned I big pile of brush. a year later I tilled the garden, tilled in compost, manure, & sawdust, gave it a shot of 13-13-13 fertilizer. the nut sedge is back but is manageable. I just need stay vigilant. it between the rows I planted several types of clover, some alfalfa, & some buckwheat. these will do double duty as green manure & feed for my bees. my new nemesis is creeping Charlie.

I have also posted this in the other nut sedge thread, and it is simply my experience with eliminating nut sedge from my lawn.

I had a lawn-wide infestation of nut sedge after replanting the lawn. You cannot kill nut sedge in one year, it is an ongoing project. I have used Sedge Hammer and it has been quite effective. I have two small spots of sedge (about 10 plants in total) left in the lawn.

You have to apply Sedge Hammer repeatedly (I do it about every two weeks) until the sedge leaves turn brown, and the plant dies. The problem with nut sedge is that even if you kill the leaves, the herbicide only trans-locates back about 2-3 nuts in the root chain. The roots can have up to seven nuts on any root. That is the problem - there will be nuts left to germinate the next year.

That's why it will come back the next year, there will still be nuts in the root mass that are still active. So, what you are doing the next year, is killing the left over nuts, and 2-3 nuts back from them. Ultimately, you will kill all of the nuts and the plant will disappear.

The problem with trying to dig the plant out is that the roots are very fine and fragile. No matter how careful you are, you will end up leaving some of the nuts in the ground, and as soon as the main plant has been taken out, the remaining nuts will start to germinate.

Roundup (glyphosate) will do nothing to the plant. You need to use a sedge-specific herbicide like Sedge Hammer with spreader sticker in the mix. I have found that a small amount of Quicksilver herbicide added to the Sedge Hammer seems to increase the effectiveness.

I apply the Sedge Hammer / Quicksilver / spreader sticker mixture after the plants have at least three to five leaves and the temperature is above 80 degrees. It usually takes two treatments over two weeks to kill the plant for this year. I then monitor the area the next year and repeat the treatment. Eventually, you can kill all of the sedge because there will be no more nuts left in the ground to germinate.

In my case, it has taken about six years to get all of the nut sedge out a 3000+ square foot lawn. But, since you only need to treat the plant 2-3 times over four week period, it is really not very work intensive.

Once you treat the plant for the year - you're done until the next year. It's a war of attrition and you just have to work at it until it's all gone. It can be done, I've done it in my lawn.