Garlic does not make viable seed, which is why we start it from cloves, but sometimes you can start it from bulbils or bulblets.

With elephant garlic, you sometimes will see small bulblets, also called bulbils by some folks, and also called (incorrectly) corms or korms by others, that form as offsets of the main bulb. You can remove them and plant them and increase your elephant garlic planting that way.

With hardneck garlic that produces scapes, if you leave the scapes on the plants and they manage to mature, then you can dry them (tie them in bundles like you do with some herbs, and hang them inside a paper bag in a cool, dry location). When they are dry, you should be able to harvest bulbils from them. You can plant the bulbils in fall at the same time you plant your garlic cloves. You have to keep the bulbils well-weeded as the very young, very small plants do not tolerate competition. Eventually they'll form small bulbs. Many people find the bulbs so small that they decide it really isn't worth it to spend the time growing and weeding the bulbils only to get the those tiny bulbs.

Kim, You can harvest the scapes and eat them. Lots of people mix them into stir fries.

You dry it until it is dry (how's that for circular reasoning), and it can vary from 1 week to maybe a month. If you harvest it when the first 3 or 4 leaves are brown and withered and the remaining 4-8 green leaves are still healthy, then it should dry out really well---especially in the weather we're having now. I dry mine in single layers (stacking them on top of each other can cause fungal issues to develop) on a table on the covered patio and check them every few days. As the leaves dry down, the bottom portion of each leaf forms part of the wrapper that protects your garlic bulbs in storage, and that's why you want to have roughly 4-8 green leaves left when you harvest. After the harvest is dried, I like to store mine in the back corner of the walk-in pantry, so it is in a cool, dry location where it is not exposed to fluctating light, humidity and temperature levels the way it would be if I had, for example, braided garlic hanging on the kitchen wall. It stores well in very cool temperatures in the dark at, let's say, 33-40 degrees OR in moderately warm conditions in the dark, say about 52-70 degrees. What you want to avoid is storing it at 40-50 degrees because those temperatures can cause it to start sprouting. Regardless where you store it, it needs good ventilation. I've gotten careless with it some years when the garden production is bountiful and storage space is all filled up and have tossed all the dried garlic into a plastic bowl and set it on a high shelf in the laundry room, which probably has more light, heat and humidity than it prefers, and none of it either rotted or sprouted.