Urea is a Nitrogen source. There are many ways of adding nitrogen. Some more effective than others... but the considerations include whether you want to garden organically, chemically, or any extent in-between.

The recommended addition is for using urea. If you decide to get your nitrogen from another source, try to find an equivalency ratio, or simply know that your soil seems low in available nitrogen. Any amendments and actions should include that understanding..

Each university and testing station usually offers a guide to understanding their results, many are online. Because recommendations can vary depending on where you live, common regional commercial crops, and the style of gardening you choose to employ, it's helpful to find out what they use as a standard of recommendation.

thank you rgreen, I only noticed information about how I can alter my pH, though I think 7.3 needs little to no adjusting. Am I correct or should it be lower?

I did not notice any information about NPK fertilizer recommendations. Can you help with that please?

You're welcome...

NPK is a ratio of Nitrogen::Potash::Potassium. The suggestion to supply Urea (a source of nitrogen) is part of an NPK recommendation.

7.3 is slightly high (alkaline), but - unless you are wanting to grow an acid-loving crop - not enough to worry too much about. Adding organic matter, either directly or through the use of compost, will buffer that pH down over a relatively short time.

Most soil test forms include a question about the crops you are wanting to grow. When you submitted the sample, did you fill-in that information? For example, when your results mention "optimum levels", that is usually a measure based upon the soil use you included. So, if you said something like "Vegetable gardening" then a result labeled 'optimum' is good!

When your results say that calcium and magnesium are 'above optimum', that is based on either the standard that you supplied, or a local common commercial crop. My guess is that you included a 'soil use' when you submitted the sample. if you did, what crop use did you submit? It should be listed on the results.

If you did say something about 'vegetable gardening', then the test indicates that you shouldn't add lime for any reason. Some people add lime for pH balancing, others as a source of either calcium or magnesium. If your standard was for veggies, then you have no need for lime at all. In fact, it would be counter-productive.

Try to search the internet for "soil test results" and the name of the university you used. You'll most likely find a document that your university has posted about reading your results. Then, if you still have questions, they can be more specific and better addressed. :-)

I did select the box saying "home mixed vegetable garden" when I sent in the sample of my soil. If Potash means the same as P in NPK and Potassium is the K, then is this soil test saying I don't need fertilizer? My results for Potassium fell in the Optimum range on this soil test, and Potash was at the end range of the Above Optimum level. The soil test said it offers nitrogen as would be needed to supply annually to ensure optimum plant growth. The nitrogen was not tested as they say there is no reliable test for evaluating the amount of N.

I have been told I should be adding fertilizer (this is my first garden), and hope these test results can help point me to which type I need to use. Does this information offer you any more help to direct me rgreen? If not, please tell me again what you need and I can get you more information. thank you

I think you are all set to grow. As far as fertilizer, I wouldn't add anything at all.

Now you have to decide if you want to go organic or if that is at all important to you and your garden. I suggest you continue reading posts on this site. There are MANY, MANY different ideas and bits of information that will serve as guide posts.

For example... adding organic matter will help most every garden soil. It will also help maintain a healthy mineral and elemental structure. The organic matter, especially in the form of a compost pile you start (hint, hint,) will also help to slowly bring your pH down to an optimum level for most garden plantings.

Do a quick search on garden websites and sites that sell seeds and look at what each plant 'prefers'. If you see terms like... 'heavy feeder', or 'lush growth'... then you may need to add nitrogen. As we discussed, there are many forms... from urea, to store bought organics, to fish emulsion, to human urine lol... All having different ethical considerations, availability, price, ease of use, and even squeamishness.

When you see fertilizers or plant foods, remember that the first number represents the percentage of nitrogen. That seems to be the only thing your plants may need. You may even want to look into 'signs of nitrogen deficiency in plants'.

Sounds like - "how to - and whether or not I should - put these (fertilizers and sources of nitrogen) to use on specific plants" will be your next research project. But in general, if you use organic matter (composted manure, yard and tree debris, compost, etc...) as your main amendment, your soil should be fine for a very long time. Your tests seem to show a very good soil for gardening.

If you haven't already, look for articles on here discussing drainage, soil types, styles of plots and beds, mulch etc...

And whomever told you that you HAVE TO add fertilizer... well... that is a common belief, but not always correct. If nothing else, it isn't the most precise suggestion.

One last thing... get advice and ideas from a number of different people and sources. There are many opinions, but in the end, yours will be the one that matters. Getting a well-rounded field of suggestions and set of input will help you make wise, long-term decisions.

urea is the cheapest source of nitrogen, to be found at ag-supply stores. this is a fine soil, you should add only urea, and some low-nutrient organic matter. I tend to prefer wood chips, for a two year mulch, or fall leaves. Agree that urea needs depend on the type of plants, zero for perennials (if mulched), zero also for most root vegetables and beans, a bit for lawn, and increasing amounts for things like tomato and cabbage.

glib, you mentioned the need for more N for tomatoes than beans, but what about cucumbers, snap peas, bell peppers and zucchini?

thanks

Where in the world are you? USDA Plant Hardiness Zone 6 tells us little except what plants will survive a normal winter where you are.

1/2 pound of a Nitrogen source, that Urea, per 100 square feet is not much and can be forgotten about.

How much organic matter is in that soil? The CEC, a measure of how well the soil will release moisture and nutrients, is in a good range which should be in the upper teens to low twenties indicating a fair amount of organic mater in the soil.

Since the soil test was done by your state university that has a Cooperative Extension Service your county horticulturist is available to you as well.

In addition to those soil tests you may find these simple soil tests to be of some help.

1) Soil test for organic
material. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in
a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and
replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24
hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight.
For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the
bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above
that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top.

2) Drainage. Dig a hole
1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains
away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain
away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains’ too quickly and needs
more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the
soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up.

3) Tilth. Take a handful
of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is
released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a
finger that clump should fall apart.

4) Smell. What does your
soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant
odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria
will be and the nicer your soil will smell, to a point. Too much organic matter
can be bad as well.

5) Life. How many
earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5,
according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that
is not healthy.

kimmq is kimmsr

mgold, vegetables are more adaptable than you are giving them credit for, so don't get too hung up on exact amounts of fertilizer for each type of vegetable. At least not at this stage. Add that urea to make sure there is sufficient N. Alternatively, you can use lawn fertilizer with a very high N (first number) and low or zero on the P and K (2d and 3d numbers). 29-0-0 or 29-3-3 is fairly common. You may already have some of that around. Just make sure it has NO herbicides or weed killers or it will kill the garden. Fertilizer only. The urea would be ideal but in a pinch, the small amount of P and K in 29-3-3 will not throw your P and K too high, it would take a long time for that to happen.

If you add compost each year you hardly need fertilizer at all. You should see my garden. :-D

all legumes need no nitrogen, so peas needs are zero. IME (I just go by leaf color) squash has relatively modest needs, less than tomatoes per pound of plant. Peppers do take quite a bit of nitrogen. For peppers I am guessing 2 tbsp per plant of urea, 2 applications, in soil. For average sized zucchini bush plants (much larger than pepper plants), 2 tbsp.
For vining squash and cucumbers 3 or so. I give them in fact half of this, because I have clay with huge amounts of leaves dug in or laid as mulch. At my previous site I had to fertilize more aggressively.

All plants need Nitrogen, even legumes which do trap N and leave it for future use, but 1/2 pound of Nitrogen per 100 square feet is a very small amount to spread and very often soil test reports contain a suggestion to add anywhere from 1/2 pound per 100 ft2 to 2 pounds per 1,000 ft2 even though no test for N was done.

If the plants are growing well there is probably no need for more N which is quite water soluble and excess amounts of N in soil flow out and contaminate our ground water.

kimmq is kimmsr

It really is surprising how little N it takes to green up plants and make them lush. If you fertilize your lawn with a spreader, you have an idea how thinly it sprinkles those granules, but in days the lawn greens up dramatically. Same goes for the garden.