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owlnsr

Need guidance

11 years ago

Background:

I live in Central VA.

Purchased new home last February.

Backyard was basically given to the previous owners dogs: nothing but compact soil and weeds.

Last fall, I did a soil test and gave the backyard a "makeover"

  • tilled the yard about 6 inches
  • added the recommended amount of lime per extension
  • Broadcast k31 tall fescue and starter fertilizer per directions
  • Began a regular feeding program of synthetic fertilizer


Everything went great. I prefer K31 because of its durability and my preference for thick grass blades. (I'm also convinced that when the nuclear apocalypse occurs, only cockroaches and k31 will survive).


In the spring, some shady areas didn't do so well.

  • March--- I over seeded those spots with a fescue, KBG and Rye mix from Pennington; I also applied Turf builder Starter Lawn Food plus Weed Control, which allows for grass seed but not weed germination.
  • Early May: I fed the entire lawn Scott's Turf Builder plus Halts a Crabgrass Control


Late spring:

  • Mid June: : I spread Mikorganite on my lawn. Holy moly this stuff is amazing and I will be using this as my primary food from here on out.


Early summer:

  • Due to some heavy winded storms, I had to remove an old red oak tree. This was the one creating the shade that gave me some trouble earlier.
  • I not the areas that were disturbed by the tree removal with milorganite and they seem to be recovering nicely.
  • I use a leaf blower and a rake to spread the saw dust creating from chainsaws as evenly as I could across the lawn.


My lawn practices:

- I always cut on the highest setting, which is about 3.85 inches on my Troy Bilt push mower


- I do not water often; when I do, the lawn hasn't had an inch of water in a week, so I use sprinklers to make up the difference. I water deeply in these situations for however long it takes to being the total weekly amount to 1 inch.


- I always return the lawn clippings using the mulching setting on my mower. i did however bag once or twice when the lawn was growing so rapidly during the middle spring after fertilization; I was cutting twice per week, so every 3rd mowing I bagged.



I have started to become interested in more organic lawn care and have reading this forum like a madman. It seems like this is the way to go, and I've started to become concerned with the longterm effects of synthetic fertilizer and chemicals on my dog.


So... With all that out of the way:


Thus far, backyard lawn faired very well. It's thick in most places and other areas started to fill in nicely once I put the milorganite down. Very impressed with that poopy-based product!


BUT...


Now that the summer is coming on, it looks like there is a terrible problem brewing.


Lespedenza.


It is literally popping up in every nook and cranny it can. Even in some of the thickest and healthiest spots of the lawn.


I'm afraid it will undue all of my hard work.


Does anyone have any advice on how to deal with this organically?


I've been hand pulling the stuff but it seems futile. It's everywhere, and the more I pull, the more seems to crop up overnight.


I aim to aerate and overseed again in the fall, but the spots that the demon weed lespedenza has claimed for its domain will not be hit by the broadcast of new seed.


When the lespedenza dies off in the winter frost... It will be too late to overseed.


And if I aerate and overseed again in the early spring, I am afraid the aeration might kill off the new grass I will be overseeding this fall.


Any tips for me? I do NOT want to resort to Weed B Gon or some other chemical control, but I will if that is the best thing to get this under control now before it gets totally out of control.


I'm hoping there might be some type of soil condition that lespedenza hates but turf loves? That way I can support the turf while hindering the lespedenza without using a chemical?

Comments (4)

  • 11 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    In the thicker areas:

    1

    2

    In the thinner areas:

    3

    4

    Lawn angles:

    5- this shot shows the tree stump from the red oak I removed due to a storm. Lots of sawdust and wood chips I tried to spread around as much as I could. The turf around this spot held up better than I thought after all the pain the tree service men inflicted on it.

    6 - this area in the foreground has never done well. My dog uses it as her main path.

    7 - this is the poop zone. It is actually pretty nice considering I usually get the dog poop up only once a week. The foreground area doesn't really do so well; I'm standing in very thin / mostly dirt area (like the bottom left) to take the photo. This more barren area where I'm standing isnt actually where she doesn't poop, though. She goes in the green and she's very picky about it.

    8 - the thickest and healthiest part of the lawn. Occasionally my dog's "backup" poop zone. She rarely romps around in this area. Lespedenza is showing up here too.

    9 -another healthier area of the lawn, but lespedenza is popping up here

    10- my dog overseeing her domain.

  • 11 years ago

    I think the reason you're getting the weed is your turf is not dense enough to keep it out. You're doing everything right, so maybe the K31 is not a dense turf.


  • 11 years ago

    Guess I left out a reply to the solution...deep infrequent watering should keep it from returning, but as for what you already have, either hand pull or spray with one of the Weed-b-gone sprays you would rather avoid.


    When I get 1/2 inch of rain, I don't follow up two days later with another 1/2 inch. I wait until the grass looks dry and then water. Rain seems to be much more effective at maintaining grass than irrigation water, so 1/2 inch of rain might last you a full week.

  • 11 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    I think this is a good idea but I wanted to run this question based on something I read:

    Lespedenza seems to thrive in dry, arid and compact soil.

    I can't imagine that soil is compact because it was just tilled last September. But the Thin/barren areas of grass are VERY hard. Like concrete when dry.

    I've been amending with organic waste like shredded leaves, grass clippings, etc. I have so used a manual aerator tool (the 2 plug kind from Lowes) but that soil always clogs up the plugs holes. Have to insert a screwdriver and beat it with a hammer to unclog it.

    If I stop watering until the soil is totally dry (instead of supplementing rainfall with sprinklers to ensure 1" per week), wouldn't that benefit the lespedenza?

    ( I almost feel like I need to water extremely deep and more often to loosen everything in those areas up.)