Those are Starter Fertilizers. Usually recommended for an existing lawn that is quite deficient in phosphorous. You aren't going to find an organic that can supply NPK anywhere near those ratios. Try finding bone meal for the phosphorous. Add anything else for the N.

P.S. Wood ash can be used for a potassium deficiency. Edit: Be aware that ash is high in ph and salts. I personally wouldn't use ash.

Where in the world are you?

You will not find an organic "fertilizer" with numbers like those.

What is the soils pH?

How much organic matter is in the soil?

What is the CEC?

What is the ratio of Calcium to Magnesium?

What is the level of Phosphorus, Potash, etc.?

Wood ash is primarily Calcium Carbonate, 25 percent, with less than 10 percent Potash and about 1 percent Phosphorus. Wood ash is very alkaline because of the amount of CaCO3.

kimmq is kimmsr

After posting, I figured that I didn't give enough information. The soil test results are below

I live in the suburbs just south of Philadelphia. Regrettably, I did not test for organic matter (didn't realize it was optional with extra cost). We just moved from a row house in the city that had a small strip of backyard. I don't have much experience with taking care of a lawn, and now I have 18K sq. ft. that I'd love to spruce up. The prior owner took terrible care of the house/property after a divorce, which put it in our price area. I'm very handy around the house and with landscaping because my parents bought a fixer-upper when I was young and it gave me plenty of experience. With lawncare, my parents let a local company put chemicals anywhere. So I can do pretty much anything besides taking care of the lawn. This place seemed like it provided decent info.

Any help/suggestions would be appreciated.

There are two schools: one, that mg and ca. should have a certain ratio to one another or two, that mg only needs to be sufficient for plant uptake needs. Either way, too much mg can make for tight (hard) soil that people often mistake for compaction.

Calcitic Lime is basically mg free and Dolomitic Lime (the one you will most commonly find sold) has a high level of mg. You should call them and ask which they recommend.

One school recommends base saturation % of mg in the range of 10-20% and Ca in the range of 60-70%. Your Mg is right in the middle and your Ca is below the rec. range.

The CEC, Cation Exchange Capacity a measure of how the soil will hold onto, or release, soil nutrients is kind of low at 14.5 indicating low levels of organic matter. A good CEC would be in the mid teens to low twenties.

Soil pH is good at 6.1. For most all plants, including turf grasses, is in the 6.0 to 7.0 range.

Even though most soils around here (west Michigan) have Magnesium deficiencies the most common form of lime sold here is Calcitic and Michigan State University most often recommends applying Dolomitic. Plants need Magnesium to properly utilize Calcium and need Ca. to properly utilize Mg, and those do need to be close to the right ratio.

If, when submitting the sample for that soil test you did not ask for organic solutions is most likely why what is there lists synthetic fertilizers. If that soil test was done by Penn State your county horticulturist should be able, and willing, to provide that information to you.

Perhaps these simple soil tests will also be of some help.

1) Soil test for organic
material. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in
a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and
replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24
hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight.
For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the
bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above
that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top.

2) Drainage. Dig a hole
1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains
away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain
away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains’ too quickly and needs
more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the
soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up.

3) Tilth. Take a handful
of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is
released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a
finger that clump should fall apart.

4) Smell. What does your
soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant
odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria
will be and the nicer your soil will smell, to a point. Too much organic matter
can be bad as well.

5) Life. How many
earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5,
according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that
is not healthy.