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Spider mites

Of all the orchid loving pest, spider mites are the ones that I find the most difficult to control. Lately, I found that insecticidal soup and neem oil applied weekly until there are no more signs of the beasts works the best. If you have had issues with mites, what have you found to be the most effective method of control? If you have not had issues, I advise reading up on them and the signs, especially if you grow in the house. They thrive in low humidity and you will very likely deal with them sooner or later.

Comments (17)

  • 11 years ago

    I think I might be fighting a battle with spider mites......although I don't see any critters or webbing under the leaves. But the phals indoors are peppered with the grey dots and when I wipe the leaves I get off an orange residew. So I know there's an invisible (at least to my aging eyesight) pest! I'll be watching to see input on this thread!!!

  • 11 years ago

    Sheila, I had similar on my only indoor orchids, the Phals. Folklore says the Cymbidium growers mostly get past the problem by watering the whole plant (including under the leaves as they water) but Cymbidiums are outside all year orchids here.


  • 11 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Getting this bug is battle! Get to your battle stations!!! Number one tool is a jewelers loop. Mine is 10x. I can only see them with the loop or severe damage after it is too late. Segregate infected and another spot for suspicious plants. A heavy watering on the underside of the leaves. Do all plants. They don't like water so do that whenever you can. If there is webbing a little I cut the plant a little. A lot, You got to belly up to the bar and eliminate over 50% infested plants. Possibly bare root it and I spray with Dr. bronners peppermint castile soap, if there are canes to salvage. That and mostly water. Be aggressive. Remove all that shows damage.

    An expensive but good poison is avid. But be very careful to mix the correct amount. Too strong will do serious damage to the plants. After the first spray constant examination via jewelers loop. 5 or six days spray again. eggs will hatch. Spay any plant anytime with mite activity. After 2 apps of avid quit using for 1 or 2 years. The mites will adapt to the poison. A week later for mites I'd spray orthene. I use Orthene quarterly as a preventative. Good stuff. Long lasting. It works as a contact spray and a systemic. Low risk to humans.

  • 11 years ago

    I've used a store bought spray that was a mix of clove oil and cotton seed oil. The sprayer made a very fine mist which was good indoors because it didn't get messy, I also liked the smell.

  • 11 years ago

    James - I might have to try the clove and cotton seed oil. It sound like such a great smell. Do you mix it yourself.

    @Harvey- that is a serious regime, thankfully I have only experienced one infestation that would have warranted that approach, and it was not an orchid. It was a palm type house plant. I just stuck it outside in the 20 degree weather and that fixed the problem. Of course it killed the plant but worth it. Mites seem to build up resistance so quickly. That is why I have moved to mechanical pesticides like insecticidal soaps and neem oil. Although I might try the Orthene once or two over the summer.

    @Shelia - sounds like mites. You may want to take Harvey's advise and get a 10x magnifying glass. Good luck.

    @Arthur - have you been successful with water the leafs of your phalaenopsis to keep the mites away.


  • 11 years ago

    Thanks, James. Might look for that tomorrow. I'm battling thrips on all my orchids. They are devastating my flower buds.

    Where did you find the Bonide?

    Jane


  • 11 years ago

    because the mites get immuned to the poison so quickly and it is recommended to use a different poison after 2 applications it is better to use the individual poisons rather than a cocktail. They get immuned of them all at once.

  • 11 years ago

    Hi Darlene, two horrible looking leaves still exist on one of my phals, but the three newest leaves look fine. I went against the advice I give at shows "never put them outside" but down near the floor of a glass-house is not really outside.

    Heaven forbid..... watering phals with a hose. I've even warmed up this winter quarters room a bit for them. Its been a long road with not all that much success for those "easy" to grow "warmth hogs" Phals.

    Sometimes you have to bring in the big guns, but do you have stuff like Eco Oil over there?

    A concoction of Canola Oil, Eucalyptus Oil plus whatever.

    I use it to clean up my orchids and smother bugs.

  • 11 years ago

    Arthur - I will have to look for a similar product. I might Bonide product James mentioned with clo e and cotton seed iil. I have eucalyptus essential oil already. Maybe I can add a couple of drops. We have had some strange monsoon rain patterns in Ohio lately. I have not had too much trouble with any thing. Although I am keeping at eye out for rot.

  • 11 years ago

    I found it at a local garden center but you should be able to get it on Amazon. Its not a poison so I don't think they will become immune, it's more of a suffocation reaction to the oil and deterrent from the smell.

    My wife hates the smell of neem oil and I don't like to use pesticides indoors so I had been looking for better options. I was also trying to make my own mix with cinnamon oil. I have a potted cinnamon tree and noticed that it never gets scale, mealies, or mites and I never treat it.

  • 11 years ago

    The immunity issues are why I switched to insecticidal soap and neem oil. The mites can not get immune to them. I have heard that cinnamon repels a lot of pest.

  • 11 years ago

    I've fought spider mites indoors twice over the last 2-3 years. Finally, AVID (@$100 US on AMAZON for 8oz) stopped them for me. I sprayed plants in the garage (winter) and closed off the growing areas and also sprayed the benches. They usually got started on other plants and then moved to the orchids via 'me' unknowingly transporting them, I think.

    Thankfully, I've was mite free last winter. I've always found that by the time you see the webs, it's pretty advanced.

    Good luck,

    Bob

    Darlene (GreenCurls) thanked westoh Z6
  • 11 years ago

    I've had good success with alcohol spray for many years on all kinds of plants. I mix 1/4 cup rubbing alcohol with 3/4 cup water, 1 teaspoon Neem oil and a couple drops dishwashing liquid. It dhouldn't be used on ferns or fuzzy leaved plants - it burns them. Knock on wood I haven't had any issues with mites for years and I think it's at least in part because I keep the humidity in my plantroom at 60-70%.

    I also agree with Harvey about a jeweler's loop. It's amazing what you discover on your plants with it!

  • 11 years ago



    Stopping online for a loupe.....usual problem, price range varies tremendously. Do I need one of the expensive ones, I'm not going to be looking for flaws in precious gems....just bugs!!! I assume glass lens over plastic, and you guys mention 10x. Need more info, will a $10-15 lens be adequate or do I need the upper $$$ range?

    here are two pics of cattleya leaves, is this mite damage? Never saw bugs, but did a spray and wipe numerous times with alcohol over a 3 week period and the newest leaves are now fine.

  • 11 years ago

    My loop was given to me. Ask a jeweler? The most damage a mite does is to the bottom of the leaf.

  • 11 years ago

    Shelia - It is hard for me to tell what is causing your discoloration. As Harvey mentioned, mite damage usually starts on the underside of the leaves. Also I got mine lens from amazon years ago for around $15. It works just fine for me. Continue to monitor the new leaves for damage.


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