You may get a few different answers here, but if it were me, and since you are already using MG, I'd save the MG that you are using for another crop and I'd try to find a soluble 'blossom', or 'fruiting/flower' formula (each product or brand may have a different labeling description.) It doesn't have to be MG, it can be any soluble product with a lower first number (N).

I'd also save the Tomato Tone for the first spring working of the soil, and later top or side dressings.

My thinking is as follows. Tomato Tone is, in my estimation, a fairly good product. However, it is purposefully a slower release formula. As you pointed out, it's getting late in the season, and you'll get a better return for your efforts if you wait until spring and next year.

Later in the year (now) fruiting plants, like tomatoes, often benefit from cutting back on nitrogen. Nitrogen is needed by plants for maintenance and growth. There is no need for growth as the plant will soon reach the end of its life. It does, however, still need a small amount for maintenance.

If nitrogen is not available in the soil, the plant will prioritize, and 'steal' it from less important places (like lower leaves.) There's an argument to be made about restricting nitrogen aiding flavor, but that is often subjective, and even unnoticeable for many people. If you wish, you can do a side-by-side testing and tasting next year.

So, I would find a soluble fert. with a small amount of N (not zero) and apply that as long as the plants will benefit. Keep in mind that there is diminishing returns. In other words... fertilizer is useful until a certain point where sufficient nutrients already exist in the soil, and adding too much will cause more harm than good. Further, as you harvest, there are less fruits, and less need for ferts in general.

So, use a blossom formula, but gradually slack off. Save the Tomato Tone for another season, and keep the MG you already have for earlier in a year, or for another crop.

Agree. It is too late for Tomato Tone now. Plus they have already been heavy dosed with nitrogen already especially if you were using the MG at full strength (suggest 1/2 strength max for future reference) so it is time to shelve it and shift the focus to another water soluble fertilizer with a focus on P and K and low N while still providing the needed micronutrients. Many are available, both organic and synthetic.

Examples of bloom and fruit fertilizers

Dave

Yeah, any granular, especially if it is slow release won't work as effectively at this stage. So that leaves only water solubles.

MG has couple of products ;

== the blue solid that is readily water soluble ( 24-8-16). it is a bit too high on N for fruiting stage.

== Liquid Feed: Come in bottle ( 12 -4 -8). The same story ; too high in N.

I have found something that can be used in combination with MG Liquid Feed.

It is Alaska MOREBLOOM with 0-10 -10 analysis. .

So if you mix 1/2 portion of each you will end up with 6-7-9

or if you use 1/3 MG and 2/3 Alaska MB, you will have a 4-8-9 ratio.

I like this for fruiting stage. That is roughly what I am using right now. .

It has some N. (Plants need it all the time) but more of P and K .

So I am not just preaching. I am doing it. hehe

Here is Alaska MB, Cost ~~ * bucke per quart ( One TBS per gallon use)

Thank you both. your posts seem to go with what most people here say (And why I'm switching to Tomato tone!) Although it looks like that's next year.

I'm not arguing with you but what I'm using IS the water soluble Miracle Grow Tomato plant food. LOLOL I wonder who at MG decided 18-18-21 was the food to use for tomatoes all season long. Here are the instructions...

-Begin feeding 2-3 weeks after planting (in Miracle-Gro garden soil of course!).

-use 1 cup of solution per plant and as they grow increase to 1 GALLON per feeding. :O

-for best results use every 7-14 days.

I just found the part about using 1 gallon per plant a couple days ago (I have 2 other water soluble MG products and neither says how much to put on EACH plant so I didn't bother to read the whole tomato food box). I had just guessed how much to put on each. So, in theory if I'm only using 1/4 the amount they say aren't I using it about 1/4 strength? or doesn't it work that way?

Anyway what I've done in the past is a moot point. I have no problem stopping the MG 'tomato' food and if it will help I'll find a more appropriate mix of NPK to use on them for just the next few weeks.

Thank you also Sey, your post came in when I was typing my reply. ;)

This leads me to a question that has been burning my brain all season...

I have both so what is the difference between MG 24-8-16 and 12-4-8? If I mix 24-8-16 half strength is it then the same solution as full strength 12-4-8? If I understand correctly with the mixes that you create; that is in essence what you are doing.

But, then, how does a person know how much to use for each plant?

I read on one of these forums (I can't remember which, I've read so many posts)someone suggesting that feeding often with light feedings being a better way to fertilize than less frequent big feedings. That seems like sound advice as I would think plants use nutrients every day. So it still leaves me wondering is a larger amount of weak solution the same as a little amount of stronger solution? (as long a NPK ratios are the same)

I have both so what is the difference between MG 24-8-16 and 12-4-8? If I
mix 24-8-16 half strength is it then the same solution as full strength
12-4-8? If I understand correctly with the mixes that you create; that
is in essence what you are doing.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

It is simple math, ounce for ounce 24-8- 16 is twice rich as 12 -4 -8, if used same amount.

I would make a 1/3 strength of 24-8-16 and add 2/3 strength Alaska MB to it. That will reduce N and pump up P and K..

It is easier, however, to work with 12-4-8. Just make a 50/50 mix(original concentrate) with Alaska MB and the use ONE TBS per gallon. That is simple.

Sey