If you post picture of the plants, foliage and the fruits, you might get better opinions to identify the problem.

90 + ( up to 95) though on the high side but not to prevent complete shut down. People down South Texas grow in even warmer temperature than 90 -95F. It also depends on the variety. Definitely BW is not a good producer in heat. I don't know about Ace 55.

Sey

I have removed the yellowed leaves and I do hope they are strong enough to finish :)

Do you have suggestions for which tomatoes to plant for the dry heat for next year? I was really looking forward to great tasting fresh tomatoes. Is it normal for tomatoes to take this long? (Planted them in March)

I will include some pictures inline here.

We are dealing with 3 issues here.

1- Yellowing Leaves: As long as it starts from the very lowest, that is normal and I would prune all such leaves as not only they won't make e any contribution but might be a haven for disease. So I remove any/and all of them.

2- Not Getting Ripe Tomatoes: (a) BW is very sentimental . I had one in 2013 that I did not even get a single ripe fruit off of it. But any ordinay tomato variety, (even late one) should've produce ripe fruits by now if you planted them in March. It has been more than 120 days.

Now the question is : Are there green ones on any of your plants ? Have you been having temps over 95F alot ? Some varieties just wont set at temps 94F and higher.

Another reason for lack of fruiting it too much ferts or improper type of ferts. Too much Nitrogen can cause blossom drop/abortion.

I see in one of the picture in the link provided, showing crisping edges. That is often associated with high Nitrogen feeding.

It is amazing, plants fruit most when deprived of nutrients. Too much nutrients often encourage just lots of foliage growth. I think probably I am guilty of over fertilizing myself. LIVE AND LEARN !!

3_ Rotting Fruits: It looks like BER. And it is often caused by inconsistent moisture level. DRY >>> over water >>> DRY ( cycle).

Of course, there are other causes of rotting too, such as injuries caused by insects and pests.

Sey

I had two weeks of 90+ temps but only found one flower that dropped. You live in a very hot and dry area. I would plant out in Feb. if it were me, but I don't think heat is your only problem. I learned a LOT by looking at YouTube videos. Very helpful video how to's

Btw, good luck

Thanks for the great input! To answer the questions above:

1. Yes the yellowing starts from the bottom of the plant and only reaches half way up.

2. I do have a couple of green tomatoes per plant that have been there for approximately 6-8 weeks. I estimate about 20% of our days have been above 95F.

3. As for BER - perhaps I should mulch the raised bed to keep moisture more consistent. I was watering every day so I thought I was overwatering?

I fertilized with a 3-5-5 fertilizer for fruit and citrus a month ago after I saw the leaves yellowing. I thought that the yellowing meant they were deficient in something.