There are various paths to success. Looking at these discussions could inspire you with alternative ideas to whatever you've tried so far:

http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/3036520/propagation?n=54

http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/3268044/propagating-cuttings?n=18

http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/2829269/what-a-difference-a-little-heat-makes?n=46

Does that help?

Floorwalker,

It takes months to see any progress and if planted in perlite, you may have to wait a year to see progress. The common all green trifasciata is the most easiest and is most sold. Any variegation is lost with leaf cuttings. Also to form a large growing plant, years.

Trick is warmth, moisture (not wet), roots need air. And most of all, time.

Stush

what technique are you employing? and how long are you giving it to work?

TIFFANY: Thanks for the info and the links. I have spent an afternoon or two reading through them. And still more to go.

STUSH: Thanks for the info. I'm going to keep trying. I haven't been able to get any leaf to not rot before it has a chance to do anything else. But, with this new info, I hope to be able to. Just wish I lived in a better climate.

SANS2014: I think my main problem is the environment being too cool and the soil being too moist. I let the cuttings set for a few days before trying to put them in soil or water. And I have marked them to make sure the correct end goes to soil. But no success yet. The cuttings rot before they have a chance.

floorwalker, I've the same trouble with too cool, the cuttings I've tried this summer I've lost half of them to rot. Everything else is slow. What kind of soil and pot are you putting the cuttings into? It is possible to root them even in Pennsylvania, LOL! Both Stush and I are from PA, so It is just a matter of time till you are successful!

That's amazing that they were able to grow after shriveling on a counter for 2 months. Definitely making pups! So easy to see against the perlite. Can't wait to see if they are plain species or have the 'Whitney' coloring.

akrrm that is amazing! I think the pups will revert back, see this thread:

http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/3036520/propagation?n=55

Sans2014: SOIL TYPE

I use Miracle Gro "Moisture Control Potting Mix" I have the soil slightly moist but not wet. Not having any luck yet. I let the leaves set for a few days to a week after cutting them. So far most of the cuttings turn to mush before they have a chance to do anything. I am currently reading thru this thread to see if I can learn anything:

Container Soils Water Movement and Retention XXII

I have a similar problem with Stapelias. Most rot before sprouting roots. Even some with small roots just rot when planted. I am now using a stone and perlite mix with bottom moisture. That way the stem stays out of the dirt and moisture. Keep shaded out side. Hope they root and grow some before next month when I will have to start bringing in some. Also whole plants just topple over from bottom root rot. I have to always be on alert looking over them to replant so I don't loose them.

Stush

floorwalker, I have no experience with "moisture control" , but I don't think you should use it with Sans. Probably a soil mix designed for outside gardens to keep the annuals from drying out in the hot summer sun. I'm sure that will keep it too damp for Sans., but I've never used the stuff. I use cactus mix and add in perlite. I too have looked into the bonsai mix suggested in the above mentioned thread. People who use it seam to do well with it. I've been playing with some of the ingredients but have yet to put the full recipe together. If you do in the future try this stuff out keep in mind it will be a whole different watering scheme and you have to use fertilizer too.

floorwalker check out this site the author will even field questions from the public:

http://www.ext.nodak.edu/extnews/hortiscope/flowers/snsevria.htm

Moisture control is horrible stuff, I wouldn't use it for any plant. That means it has silicone bits in it that absorb & retain moisture. I tried that stuff back in the 90's & killed about every plant.

I think you should get the soil just barely moist. Then, put a plastic baggie over the cup, to avoid transpiration, or lose of moisture. It's the equivalent of a tiny greenhouse.