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Washingtonia Robusta fronds shriveling!

10 years ago

I bought a Washingtonia Robusta from a seller on ebay out of Nevada. After I opened it up, I potted it in a new 10-inch pot with fresh out of the bag "Miracle-Gro Cactus Palm and Citrus Potting Mix". It was a little rough looking from being inside the shipping package. I straightened it up and potted it the best I could. The large frond was creased from the shipping envelope the guy used. I'm somewhat of a novice, so in the past I lost a Trachycarpus Fortunei to root-rot due to my over-watering it during Winter months.

I only gave this W. Robusta 1-bottle of water right after I planted it. I've had it out in my sun-room since potting it. I believe that its been plenty of sun. And its been hot in there, about 75-90F since I planted it. Here in Toledo Ohio we have high humidity, but since these grow in Florida and other parts of the West Indies (outside) I don't think that's the issue. When I got it, the fronds were normal and looked great. Now they've shriveled up quite a bit like a collapsed accordion. Its still green though.

I just can't imagine what could've gone wrong already. I only planted it in its pot 3 days ago. The seller mentioned that it may go through Transportation Shock for a week or two. Could this be what it is? Did I under-water it? Did I over-water it? This is a desert palm so they don't need a lot of water, I was told. Is this problem from my potting mix I bought?

Its just frustrating since its summer and it seems like since I got it in a pot with water straight away, it shouldn't be doing this (with full-sun everyday no less).


Here's what it looks like.


Here's how it looked when I got it.


Note: The large frond is creased from the Shipping Envelope. Don't know if that matters.

Any help from anyone would be appreciated.

Thank you.



Comments (18)

  • 10 years ago

    I think your problem is mostly related to soil and water (they are closely related). Don't get me started on MG soils. THEY ARE MOSTLY PEAT MOSS. I have used the Palm and Cactus mix and think it also is too peaty. Peat presents two opposite problems for plants. They take too long to dry AND once they do dry..., are nearly impossible to moisten. I would transplant into a mix with generous amount of coarse sand and perlite. Humus is also beneficial. You want a soil that breathes, will accept water but also dries.

    Now the second part of your problem is a fundamental misunderstanding of Washingtonia as a "desert palm". Yes, they are native to semi-arid to arid regions, but their roots are relying on subsurface sources of water (aquifers), desert springs. There's a reason one desert town is called Palm Springs. It is the same for Date Palms in North Africa..., they are growing in an 'oasis' made possible by subsurface water. A containerized palm is relying on you to supply the water (not able to send down deep tap roots). Don't be afraid to water in sun and heat if you have decent soil. I have large tubs of Washingtonias outside and they get hosed down every day as it's still hot (into the 90's). Good luck!

    User thanked User
  • 10 years ago

    So when you say repot it, what kind of potting mix should I buy? So your saying when I repot my W. Robusta I should buy Sand and Perlite to mix in with the potting mix? I'm confused as to what I should get. I usually always thought MG potting mix were the best I could buy, so I naturally bought the one for palms and etc. Are there other potting mixes for sale that aren't so preaty? If I repot it, will it die from disturbing it again? I am a novice, so I'm still learning. Thanks.

  • 10 years ago

    When you touch the surface of the mix how does it feel? Moist, dry or somewhere in the middle? How does the soil feel up to an inch beneath the surface? Moist, dry or in the middle? Look, it is late in the season already. You could leave it in that mix for the coming fall and winter and transplant in the spring. You could use your existing MG soil as a base but I would work some coarse sand and/or perlite into the mix at the time of transplant. If you leave it in the existing container make sure that the soil is actually getting moist when you water (and not merely running through the pot), then let it dry out some. With temps in the 90's and sun that you are providing, overwatering should not be a big risk. Describe in more detail your current watering practices. When you do water, do you water thoroughly? How often are you watering?

    User thanked User
  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    The surface feels fluffy, a little moist, and slightly wet a half inch down. Since potting it 4 days ago, I dumped a bottle of water in it, and then this morning I gave it about 12oz give or take. I wasn't sure if I should've been watering everyday or just once a week or something, so I haven't had it on a regular schedule per say. When I water it I just dump the water in the middle of the pot. It's hard to tell where the water goes in the MG soil.

    I'm concerned it could die with the way it looks currently. I'm thinking maybe I should run to home depot and buy perlite, fresh potting soil, and sand to repot it again from your initial comment. But I wasn't sure. Should I be worried of it dying? I've been in communication with the seller and he's said it probably is the transportation shock. He recommends leaving it be, and allowing it time to adjust. I've told him the same info about the MG soil and etc as I've said here, but this is what he says.

    What do you think? Should I repot it later today or leave it on its current MG soil? Do you think I should buy sand and perlite and mix both (in small doses over time)?

    I want to avoid root rot though. It's hard to tell how much water and how often. My trachy died (after a year of success) from overwatering.

    I just don't know where to go from here.

    I appreciate all the help I can get. Thanks.


  • 10 years ago


    This morning I looked at it and its looking pretty grim. I worry about it and I'm in panic mode now. I've actually contacted the seller and requested a new specimen (or in the least a refund so I can turn around and buy another from him or somebody else).


    Ultimately, I decided to re-pot it after all. I potted it with MG Perlite, Sand, and some of my remaining MG Citrus & Palm Tree mix I used previously. I was cautious about how much of the potting mix to use after what has happened. I used some but not a lot I don't think. I added each in steps, and mixed them all together each time. I also put small rocks in the bottom to allow drainage through the drainage holes. I'm really hoping it comes back from this. It really should not be like this after only 4 days after planting in its pot. Is it dead?


    Here's how it looked this morning when I woke up.






    Here's how it looks when I re-potted it.


    I gave it some water with the garden hose. I wasn't sure how much water to give it now that its been re-potted so I just filled up the pot somewhat.


    I wasn't sure how much sand/Perlite/Potting Soil to use so its all guess-work the best I could. Did I do all this as I should have? Did I go wrong somewhere?


    I greatly appreciate any help I can get from anybody.


  • 10 years ago

    'Play Sand' is not the same as coarse sand. Play sand is used for sandboxes; coarse sand is used in landscaping, construction and horticulture. It's the grade of the sand that is quite different. If you have already transplanted, just leave it. After reading through your post, I suspect that you have a strong tendency to overwater. After a transplanting, there is no need for additional watering is the media is already moist. If the seedling survives, it will indicate the need for more water by showing growth, and having a container that is drying out faster. In the meantime, err on the side of under watering.

    User thanked User
  • 10 years ago

    Sorry, I guess I messed up again. I didn't know there was a difference between the two.

    This morning I actually decided (after talking with a guy at a nursery in South Florida) to re-pot it in a much smaller container. He said that I was indeed overwatering and that the soil should dry out before you add more water. After re-potting it I gave it a little water, about 3-4 oz (I hadn't seen your comment about not adding water after a transplant since the soil is moist).

    At this point I should probably just break down and buy another one. But this time I will start it off in this smaller container and I won't give it a lot of water.

    How much water should I give it when watering to avoid this? 4oz, 6oz? I never know. Next time I will definitely buy the coarse sand. Should I still mix it with Perlite and potting mix the next time around?


    Here's how it looks now

    I guess at this point I'll give this one time and see what happens. I hope it survives but I don't have a lot of hope. I guess in the meantime I'll be checking in to getting a new one.

    I really do appreciate all your help subtropix. Thank you. I guess with each mistake I learn a little more.

  • 10 years ago

    A replacement should be easy enough to find (try eBay, have seen everything form seeds to trees sold of this species). They grow fine and easy from seed btw. But I would just suggest getting one a bit larger once leaves have started to form full leaves. It is admirable how much attention you have paid to a palm, most consider weeds in their native habitats! They are actually very easy palms for containers. You will know when the palm is settled after a transplant..., it may sit and sulk a week or so, but then start growing and the soil will be drying out faster. I have hundreds of plants, I never measure/ration the amount of water being applied in ounces. Smaller pots and well-draining soils help if you know you overwater, clay also dries out faster (compared to plastic). I think you are looking at the gardening endeavor more as a science, when I actually think is't more of an art and developing a sixth sense. Good luck!

    User thanked User
  • 10 years ago

    Thank you. I actually bought it on eBay. I got it from a guy in Nevada (I'm in Ohio). I guess I'm probably over-thinking it. I just really like this palm and enjoy W. Robusta a lot. We don't have palms here, so it's interesting and fun to try to grow them if you can. Most people around have never heard of this or anything.

    The only reason I didn't want to buy seeds, is because I tried Trachycarpus Fortunei seeds and never ever had any such luck with them. They were $1 a seed too, and I bought 10. None of them even thought about starting.

    Also the amount of time it takes to germinate from a seed is long I think. I might give it a shot someday in the future though.

    Thank you for all the help. I will start anew sometime soon, and I try to keep all we've talked about in mind.

  • 10 years ago

    Does that pot have holes in it?

  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    Yep, sure does. Every pot I use has drainage holes in the bottem. I punched holes in the powerade bottle I used as well.

  • 10 years ago

    Well so far it's still alive.

    I've been giving my Robusta seedling a decent watering alongside my new large Robusta. The seedling has seemed to stabilize somewhat. At least in my opinion. I lost 2/3 fronds 2-3 days after potting but once I trimmed those 2/3 fronds off it seemed to stabilize to what it looks now.

    I noticed that it's tip is slowly turning brown/yellow. I snip it off and it turns brown/yellow again. I haven't snipped it in a while and it seemed to slow after the last snip. But, I look at it everyday and it seems to get a little worse each day. Not much worse each day, but slightly worse. I'm afraid to snip any more off now since its down to it's last frond.


    Should I keep trimming the brown/yellow? I worry about it. It's getting plenty of water (I water it until it comes out the bottom 6 drainage holes I punched in).

    Could this be caused from too much water? Too much sunlight? I doubt it's too much sunlight since Robusta are desert palm trees. It's been plenty warm in the bay window in my house. It's been 72-77F all the time.

    Should I leave it be? Should I stop watering? Maybe it's still feeling the transportation shock from when I got it.

    It's showing little activity otherwise.

  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    Its been a little bit of time since I last spoke of my palm. I just want to provide a status update:

    My little Robusta is now doing excellent! Its completely reinvigorated itself and is striving. It gets larger everyday. The single leaf it had, has grown very large indeed, and seems to still grow. It even has sent out another leaf from the bottom of the "trunk". Its still tiny yet, but seems to be going haywire with growth.

    Its still in the bay-window that faces the South/Southwest. It gets sunlight when we have a sunny day, and now our furnace is on so it pretty much stays at or around 73F all the time. Its a nice green and a lighter green at the bottom where the leaf continues to grow from.

    I just give it a healthy dose of water and have kept it moist. It struggled somewhat in the beginning. But it seems like once I put it in the window with the furnace heat and consistent sunlight, it really took off. I don't water it too often, only every 2-3 weeks I'll drop some water in there to soak through to the bottom.

    Looking back now I can't believe I was ever worried it would grow! It seems to be pursuing relentless growth and is thriving so very well. I still worry about a little since we're heading into Winter (here in NW Ohio) and our sunny days will become ever more limited with each passing day.

    Even now, some days we have the sun doesn't even bother to come out. While other days we'll get some partial sunshine, and the occasional day where its full-sun all day (abundant in summer, but not too common in fall/winter).

    The El-Nino this year, hopefully will provide a messed up weather pattern. That may provide an abnormal level of sunny days this Fall/Winter. Here in Toledo, Ohio I've read on average we get 200 cloudy days though-out a given (average) year.

    My Robusta is after-all in the bay window, so it still gets the ambient light even on an overcast cloudy day, just not full-sun like in California, Nevada or Florida. I hope it can at least survive the Fall/Winter on what light it can. Once Spring gets here most everyday is sunny until Fall comes back around. When its sunny out it gets full-sun most all the day.

    It hasn't seemed to mind so far it seems. Its growing more each day it seems! Lately we've had one day cloudy, and the next sunny. So I don't think it even minds yet.

    Do Washingtonia Robusta go into a dormant state (or I guess like a coping state) during periods of low sunshine, such as Fall/Winter? Or, do they pretty much expect Full-sun everyday, even in Fall/Winter? Can they survive with days of no sunshine (light from outside, such as cloud-cover days)?

  • 10 years ago

    Looks healthy!

    Mine seems like it grows whenever it feels like it. There's probably a more scientific explanation though. Sometimes it grows fast, sometimes slow, and sometimes not at all. Time of year doesn't seem to be a factor either.

    User thanked Jeff Ashenfelter
  • 10 years ago

    That sounds similar to how mine is growing. It's good to know that the time of the year isn't a major deal.

  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    Lately I've been having a problem with gnats. The gnats come out when I pour water into the soil. They fly out then. I bought some insecticidal soap to try to solve this problem. I first applied it last Friday.

    Today (now 1 week later), I poured water into the soil and sure enough gnats flew out. Not as many as there used to be. 2-3 gnats. I don't know if the soap actually worked, or if it's needs to be tried again. I ultimately decided to apply more today.

    This product I bought says it's made for houseplants, so I hope it won't hurt my Robusta. So far my Robusta seem to be unfazed. They haven't declined or anything. I only applied it to the soil, not the actual foliage or anything.

    I hope these gnats will dye. I don't want to go through repotting it about, since it's just starting to thrive. I don't want to disturb the root system. Robustas don't like that and it sucks to have to repot (even more now that it's Winter). I just need to kill off the gnats and then my problem will be solved.

    I worry that the gnats will damage the roots, and they are pests flying around my house. We've not seen too many gnats in the last week though, but I hadn't watered it for a while either.

    How do Washingtonia Robusta handle chemicals in the soil? Do they not care? Will this insecticidal soap harm it? I've read they tolerate acidic soil. So far they don't seem to care and I first applied it 1 week ago (and again today)?

    Has anyone else had this problem? What should I do? Is there a better product I should be using? I would appreciate any help I can get. Thanks.

    Here's the product:

  • 4 years ago

    Only a seedling my guess would be you've probably fried it with the heat! Try putting it in indirect sunlight see if that helps also only water it once it the soil dries out hope this