So since you have seen something to indicate that plants growing in a healthy soil will be less susceptible to insect pests what have you done to make more soil into a good healthy soil that will grow strong and healthy plants?

Four O'clocks Larkspur, and a few other plants are naturally poisonous to many insect pests, and humans as well, and can be part of an overall insect pest control program.

Do you have an insectary that will help attract and feed beneficial insects as well?

kimmq is kimmsr

Well, better compost is probably the best place to start. That would include healthy, well nourished livestock as well, whether you would compost what you get from pen/coop/stall cleaning, or leaving them out to graze and let the "droppings" lay where they may. I understand it takes about 7 years to form an inch of topsoil. As far as an insectary goes, I grow things like wild bee balm, fennel, and caraway. Beneficials also love catnip blossoms. A good reference would be to look into Joel Salatin's farming methods. He goes into great detail, and lives what he claims. It's really how nature intended to make things work. Another person of interest is Allan Savory.

http://www.polyfacefarms.com/story/

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=joel+salatin+polyface+farm

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vpTHi7O66pI

Many of the beneficial insects like Dill, Queen Annes Lace, an similar flowers since they do not have the ability to reach deep into blossoms for the nectar. Many native plants (often called "weeds" by some) are just what these beneficial insects need.

A good healthy soil is one that is well balanced, a soil well endowed with organic matter that is evenly moist but well drained. How long it may take to make an inch of "topsoil" depends on many factors, as well as what you count as part of the soils structure. How long will it take to erode a rock (the mineral portion of soil) can be a determinant as well as how fast the Soil Food Web converts the organic material (the leaves and dead plants) into soil organic matter. Then there is the soil pH, which can vary depending on what is to be grown in that soil. Most all plants will do best with a soil pH in the 6.0 to 7.0 range but some evolved with different soil pH needs.

The way to getting a good healthy soil is to look at the soil you have closely.
One tool to use is a good reliable soil test for soil pH and major nutrient levels, which your
University of Wisconsin does, and these simple soil tests may also help.

1) Soil test for organic
material. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in
a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and
replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24
hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight.
For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the
bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above
that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top.

2) Drainage. Dig a hole
1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains
away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain
away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains’ too quickly and needs
more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the
soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up.

3) Tilth. Take a handful
of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is
released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a
finger that clump should fall apart.

4) Smell. What does your
soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant
odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria
will be and the nicer your soil will smell, to a point. Too much organic matter
can be bad as well.

5) Life. How many
earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5,
according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that
is not healthy.

kimmq is kimmsr

Thanks kimmq, lots of good info! Pretty clear I have very little knowledge and not much to offer! I guess I'll stick to asking advise rather than giving it! LOL

Has anyone get any advice on getting rid of Japanese Beetles? Other than daily knocking them off into soapy water?

I have seen reports that sprays of Neem Oil products can help, and if necessary a spray with pyrethrins can also help. Keep in mind that pyrethrins are very broad spectrum poisons and that Neem is known to have adverse affects on bees.

kimmq is kimmsr

Yep, really don't want to harm any bees....the only bees we've had here in the last 4-5 years or so have been a few masons, which I intend to help out, lots of bumbles, and a host of tiny ones, but I'm pretty sure I saw only one honey bee this year....compared to hundreds just a few years ago, makes me sad.