Will the tree be potted, bare root, or balled and burlapped?

I've had good luck planting potted trees in October. Less luck with bare root. The expected rain should benefit them.

We'll get it from a local nursery so it will be either potted or balled/burlapped. Not bare root.

I am fine waiting til spring, just want to know the ideal planting time.

The right time is really when you will have the time to water. I run into problems with Spring because it tends to get overbooked for me. That's me, though. When are you less likely to forget about it or go away on a trip?

Practically, now and through Oct. Much easier to keep it watered, less evaporation, and you'll not be prostrate with heat exhaustion when you should be out watering ( deep soaking, having made a "moat" around the tree to help keep the water around the tree, and the rest of what NHbabs said) If your neighbors are not gardeners or don't read GW tree forums, you may have to do some education about leaving the root flare exposed the proper way to mulch, as NHB describes, avoiding mulch volcanoes.

How great that you and the neighbors can agree on something positive for the neighborhood. Will there be a watering schedule for this fall through all of next year, to avoid over and under watering?

Thanks for the guidance, everyone! Sounds like fall is the way to go!

Marie, technically the neighbors' tree is on their property and I will plant the new one over the line on ours. So no shared watering schedule necessary, but the yards do run together and we do things like mow each others' side of the lawn.

I like that!

Ditto BabsNH. I have had excellent results even planting "bare root"* (*just ripped out, kept moist, then replanted within a few days if not right away) trees in October and November (5a New England). Small hemlocks -- 12" tall, but with a good root system, yanks out of moist soil, kept in moist soil and leaf mold for a few days, then planted. I've also moved a red maple that was ~ 10' tall. I actually relocated that one twice with great results.

I dig a hole (not too deep) to match the existing soil level on the trunk. I make the hole wider. If the new hole has soil that is very lean, I _might_ add a bit of nearby woodland soil. I water the hole and let the water drain out. I put the plant in, water and muck it in as I go to remove any air pockets. I only put the soil up to where it was on the tree I'm relocating. I tap the soil down, put some leaf mold or bark much over the area, but not against the bark or trunk of the tree. I keep the soil moist until the ground freezes solidly. In the spring and summer, I am careful to not allow the soil to become dry. You don't want soggy wet soil, but with new trees, you don't want the soil to get dry. With deciduous saplings, I sometimes find it helpful to put supports (stakes, line, soft hose at tree) and I sometimes (with certain trees) wrap the lower trunk. When I move a rhododendron, I sometimes cut some of the leaves back and /or use something like "Wilt-Proof" so that there is less moisture loss through the leaves.

I've had very good luck and have been surprised at how simple it is. And, I suspect, as BabsNH pointed out -- essentially, you do keep things simple. Don't go adding a bunch of stuff to the soil, never "volcano" mulch a tree, and keep the soil evenly moist.

Enjoy your new tree. Let us know how it goes.

Hi! So the tree came down today as planned. We had thought of getting a new tree this weekend, but now the forecast is for a freeze on Saturday and Sunday nights. Should I avoid planting this weekend now?

No need to postpone unless it is too cold for you! But it is only getting colder....

Not too cold for us--just wanted to make sure the tree will not be harmed if we plant it on Saturday and then get two freezing nights in a row.

Go for it! Just see above comments.