I'm not there right now to visually inspect, but our barn door at the lake is stopped at the top. We don't have anything at the bottom, or into the hardwood. However, ours is on a pantry. Does the bottom track secure it better? Ours slides pretty effortlessly.

I also have a barn door between our MBR (which happens to have been a small barn originally) and the BA on my side. There is a track along the top, but the bottom of the door has a groove that travels on an inverted "T" screwed into the floor ... that T is only about 1.5 " wide or so.

First a side view, then a head on view,

Cutting a recessed track sounds like over kill to me .

I have not attached a door guide yet and may not need to -door stays in place if you're not pushing on it .

My door stop is also at the top.

My door to my bathroom is only a single width door, and I don't think single width doors need a track. If yours is larger it might. We also have barn doors as our front door (entrance to a vestibule really, since you cannot weatherproof a barn door). Those are quite large and they do have a track.

I stand corrected. DH says we have what Mtn has above. Ours is half of the 12 divided window double entry door original to the 1920 house we tore down. He said he routed out the channel on the bottom of the door and used hardware like Mtn shows. However, he says it is very small and you can't see it. Otherwise, he says, the door would swing out. Sorry for the misinformation.

Thanks. The barn door hardware came with a "T" (spike) to install on the bottom of the floor. There is no groove on the bottom of the wood door. I see that some companies sell a "C" guide, which requires no groove on the door.

There is a door "stop" on the top hardware. It's a single door, opening to the right (on entering the bathroom).

I think the door hardware on top was not installed properly. The instructions show that the track length should be adjusted to match the width of the door. The door stop is several inches to the left of the door (looking at it from the bedroom side). When the door is pushed to the left (from bedroom side) all the way to the door stop, it leaves a 6" gap on the right. It takes a lot of fiddling to get the door centered over the opening.

If I put in one "T" or "C" guide on the bottom, the door will slide out of the guide, as it is being pushed open. I think I will need two guides - one on either side of the side.

And now I realize that the bottom guide will not help with the problem of the door stop being several inches to the left.

If you have the adjustable stops look for a very little screw to loosen so the stop can be adjusted. I'm guessing you have the flat track system.

But anyway .... custom made and installed...Ask them to come back and adjust the stops.

Thanks. I found the instruction sheet and called the barn door hardware supplier. I have a 32" single barn door. The windows & door subcontractor who ordered the hardware should have ordered a 5'4" long track; instead they ordered a standard 6' length. I was unhappy about the aesthetics of the track extending beyond the door, but didn't realize that it affected the functionality. I thought that the bottom hardware would "stop" the door.

They ordered black hardware without asking me if I would prefer stainless steel. The ss tracks have little screws for moving the door stop. The tracks in black finish require putting an extra hole and bolt through the track to move the stop.

The barn door hardware supplier recommends the "T" guide over a "C" or "U" guide, as it's less visible. In order to use the "T" guide, I'll need my cabinet guy to put a groove in the bottom of the door he made and then I need to move the stop on the top track.

Options for moving the door stop on the top track:

1) Replace the 6' black track with a 5'4" track in stainless steel and place the door stop in correct position at installation site. Stainless would match my decor better; I don't have anything else in ORB.

2) Replace the 6' black track with a similar 5'4" track and hope that the door stop ends up in the correct position

3) Keep the 6' track and cut a hole through it to install an extra bolt for the door stop. The company does not sell extra bolts - would need to find something that matches.

4) Wait for availability of a door stop that does not need a bolt to put it into place

I have 3 barn doors that all have installation issues. #1, DH ordered the door while I was away and got it 3 inches SMALLER than the opening instead of 3" BIGGER than the opening. So we need a new door. GC offered to make the opening smaller, but I don't like the door anyway.

#2, is inside a water closet. The hardware has to extend a certain distance beyond the width of the door, but because it's not a huge wall, there isn't room for it.

#3, the door is thicker than the track is intended for.

I feel your pain. These things are not easy.

Plan2remodel-

I was going to go step by step to help you but I'm thinking that if you want stainless get this one with the adjustable stop...Easy-peasy .

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N22D3FW?psc=1

I really want to know what your contractor charged for parts...

Amberm- One of my walls were also too small so I did two small doors.

2 doors wouldn't work for me. It's a 26" door. One side has about 38" of wall space, and the other side is maybe 3". The problem is that the hardware is intended for a 24 to 38" door (or something like that). So to accommodate the largest door, the track is at least 80", and my whole room is only about 68" long.

And it's supposed to be soft closing, so he's afraid if he cuts it down, he'll screw it up. But he's also left it too long and I can no longer return the hardware, so we're stuck with it.

The one picture above had about 9" cut off because of lack of wall.

What does " #2, is inside a water closet. The hardware has to extend a certain
distance beyond the width of the door, but because it's not a huge wall,
there isn't room for it." mean ?

The track only needs to be a little over double the size of the door .

The wall space needs only to be maybe 2" more than the door size.

So a 26" door only needs 28" of wall space on one side.

The door pictured is only a 24" door.

I'm sorry- I'm probably having a brain shut-down...

It's because the track is intended to support a range of doors, it's just over double the maximum size. Which is about 3 times the size of my door. And the GC is afraid to cut it.

6.6 or 80 " is standard coming out of China.

Cut the flat track to fit your wall space.I took mine to a metal fabrication shop. There will be NO effect on the "soft close" .Which by the way I don't know what that means.

If you have photos of the parts or space I might understand better.