read the link ... then lets narrow down your specific questions

not really familiar with TX .. so i cant help with whether these are bullet proof plants for the area ...

soil is HEAVY doesnt really mean much ... is it clay???

ken

https://sites.google.com/site/tnarboretum/Home/planting-a-tree-or-shrub

Thanks Ken, I was reading that link as you responded. For the most part it is clay, but I have read that most soils in my area are not specifically clay, that is why I used the term heavy. It is definitely not sandy, but with out doing the jar test, I would venture to say that it is mostly clay with silt and loam mix. I probably have a decent amount of organic matter, as I have been fertilizing with Alfafla pellets for a few years now. I just have not got around to the jar test to figure out exact amounts.

From doing research I figure these are the things that I did wrong when planting my first round of shrubs:

1) Planted to low in the hole. Actually fixed a couple of existing Yew Taxus x media by re-planting slightly above the hole. One of them is doing great, the others are hanging on for now.

2) Amended soil by using soil mix that came from the container when backfilling (used all the container soil and small amount of native.

3) planted early spring instead of fall

4) did not break up rootball before planting

I have heard that using a small amount of sand in the planting hole to help with drainage could help with wet feet, which Yew's hate ( I have some that I am considering re-locating)

the jar test sounds stupid ... its for science geeks to determine what is in the soil ... rather useless to you ..

you need a perk test ... dig a hole.. bucket sized ... and fill with a bucket of water.. and time how long it takes to go away ..in my sand.. 2 to 4 mintues .. 5 gallons.. bye bye ...

in clay .. maybe never.. if bad ... real bad ...

never add sand to clay.. its the basic recipe for cement ... and if you dont elevate ... and the soil doesnt perk.. what good does the sand do anyway.. you are in a clay bowl ....

the rest is in the link ... advise if you need clarification ...

and do understand.. well established old trees.. can and will grow anywhere ... this is all about you.. us.. killing the darn thing.. on planting ... and the couple years.. it takes the plant to adjust to its surroundings .... plant high .. and the darn plant.. will put its roots where it will do the plant itself good ...

the best example of that.. is no amendments ... native soil.. and let the plant start getting used to it.. asap ...

the bottom line... is just about everything you dream up... off mother nature ... is the beginning of loving your new plant to death ...dont ...

ken

just for curiosity sake, if my soil drains in 2 min. vs 5 days, what do I have to do different under those circumstances?

you basically .. subject to that link.. plant half the roots in the clay .. native soil ... and half above... with a good topsoil ... to round off a small berm .... 3 feet sounds nice ...

roots need air, which we call drainage ... so the parts above.. can take care of the plant.. while the parts down below ... adjust themselves.. and grow into the native soil ... and they will grow down into the clay.. once they get past the transplant shock ...

i am sure there are native wood stands around ... lets say oaks... and those planted themselves when an acorn fell to the ground ... it was able to cope the survive ... just fine ... growing right inot the native soil.. or clay ...

which brings us full circle... back to us transplanting a tree... and creating a situation.. where the transplant can not cope.. with the sudden changes ...

now.. need i explain.. the lower roots go in native soil. not the upper ones... if so.. you planted the tree upside down .. and that is never good.. trust me on that .. lol .. [who said learning cant be fun .. lol ...

are we getting you there????

ken

ps: stupid jar test? ... well.. its a laboratory test... to define the ingredients in the soil ... rather meaningless to a gardener.. who wants to know how water moves thru the soil ... perks.. drains ... so we dont kill it with too much water love ...

i mean really.. if the jar test tells you have 80% clay ... 10% sand .. and 10% humus.. where do you go with that info ... see the link for the soil triangle ... again.. it doesnt really help you.. us.. define how it all works in your garden ..

on that chart.. i would put myself down in the left corner or so ... all drainage.. little much of anything else.. and trees just love it.. they basically make what they need with their leaves ... [so they dont need fert] ... and its all drainage ...

and you are somewhere in the remaining 66% .... so be it.. perk your hole ...

and again ... a hole dug in bad clay.. is just an in ground pot ... with no drain hole at the bottom ... throwing stuff in the hole.. will not change the fact that it is a pot with no drain hole.. leaving you but with one option... upward ... [crikey the PS got longer than the post .. lol]

https://www.google.com/search?q=soil+triangle&biw=868&bih=745&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAWoVChMI_vnBtd2kyAIVVSyICh28_wY4&dpr=0.9

hmmm..interesting. I am darn good at growing grass lol...I have entered a whole new world with the shrubs. I believed I followed you pretty well. Few things though..think I know the answer to this one. You mentioned a good topsoil. Is the soil that comes in the shrubs pot a "good topsoil?"

Other thing...u mentioned you don't need fert. because you have mostly sandy soil. Did I understand that correctly? If I have mostly clay does that mean I do need to add fert. periodically?

Lastly, can you explain "perk your hole?" I assume you mean measure the time it takes to drain?

Also to sum up your post...slower drainage...bigger berm? Did I get that right?

Thanks for the help.