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schefflera dropping leaves after root pruning

10 years ago

My schefflera was doing so well that it outgrew it's pot. I transplanted it then I moved to a new apartment over the summer. I put schefflera on the porch for the summer that received direct morning sun. She was doing OK but not great like she did in my old apartment where she didn't receive direct sun but was in a bright room. She did have a root that was all twisted and growing up out of the soil so I decided after reading several threads to do a bare root pruning late summer.
She was moved inside before the threat of frost but since then she has not been doing well. Schefflera is near a window that receives an hour or so of direct sunlight but the leaves are yellowing and dropping. Please help me save my once healthy schefflera.

Comments (4)

  • 10 years ago

    How about some additional info. When did you repot? Where do you live? what sort of soil did you repot into? You bare-rooted entirely? Scheffs are prone to scale - did you inspect? Are you watering when the plant is still moist? How was it performing before you brought it in? Any fertilizing since the repot? with what? how often?

    A couple of pictures would be nice if it's not any trouble.

    Al

  • 10 years ago

    Repotting occurred in early spring. The move was from Upstate NY to CT. Spent the summer outside with a couple hours of direct morning sun. The roots were a mangled mess from being root bound so I followed your other post about root pruning. Soil is just a bagged potting soil. Added osmocote this summer but none at root pruning that I can remember. I think it was overwatered on the porch (not my doing) which is when it started to yellow. It's only dropped the leaves since it has come inside. How much water should it be receiving after the root pruning? I'll post a photo later and check for scale.

  • 10 years ago

    Plants often shed foliage when brought indoors from summering out. It has to do with the reduction of a growth regulator flowing across the abscission zone at the base of each leaf. A certain amount of the growth regulator flowing across the abscission zone is necessary to prevent an abscission layer (at the point where the leaf is attached to the branch) from forming and the plant subsequently shedding the leaf as a result. As leaves are shed, maintaining control of your watering increases in importance, so you might consider using a wooden dowel or skewer stuck deep into the soil to 'tell' you what's going on deep in the pot. Water when the skewer comes out clean and dry. If the plant was recently repotted and the roots are located only in the upper few inches of soil, you might need to water a couple/few days before it's clean/dry.

    The keys are

    ** patience (your plant will likely just glare at you all winter)

    ** root health/control of your watering

    ** bright light and temps above 65*

    When your plant next needs water, flush the soil thoroughly by pouring at least 10x the volume of the pot through the soil, but let's visit again before you do that. I'll point you toward some info that you can use to help rid the soil of excess water that wants to stick around after you water. Flushing the soil is like hitting the fertility 'reset' button to 0. When your plant starts pushing a little growth after it's adjusted to the new setting, it's appropriate to fertilize, and we can talk about that if you like.

    You might find the info at the end of this link helpful.

    Al

  • 10 years ago

    Leaf loss is normal when you bring plants in after a summer outdoors.

    Can you give your tree good light inside? A sunny, East window?

    I grew them in NY and carried them over winter in a bright east window. Let them get almost dry before watering. They will slow down over winter which is fine.

    In spring, put it back outside when the nights stay moderate.

    Good luck,

    Jane