There are many posts on this. A search will bring more information than what I say. Paramount importance is your zone.

In zones with winters try Darwin tulips for repeat performance. Do not expect to duplicate 1st year's results with tulips.

What do you search for? Allot of times I search and I find nothing. Do you search for Tulips? You say do not expect to get duplicate 1st years results with tulips why?

The most popular types of tulips have been so heavily hybridized over the years to the point that they have lost much of their ability to perennialize or return reliably year after year. Species tulips typically offer the best success for perennialization but they do not offer the same sort of showy flower production as do the popular hybrids. As noted above, the Darwin hybrids have a decent reputation for returning at least for a few seasons but they never match their initial year performance. Most gardeners treat hybrid tulips as annuals and replant each season.

Providing hybrid tulips with the conditions they prefer during their dormant period (summer) can help to extend their perennial abilities. And that means very well draining soil that receives little to no water during the summer months. Including these bulbs in a bed with other plants that require regular summer irrigation is a sure way to never have these bulbs return and rebloom.
Google search on why tulips don't return

I live in Ohio in Zone 5A

What about Hyacinth do they come back every year? What do you do to keep them in peak condition year after year.

In zone 5, tulips do not require chilling above what they receive normally with winter cold. Even digging up the bulbs and replanting rafter a chilling period in warmer climates will not encourage hybrid tulips to perennialize or bloom any longer than if they were left alone. The bulbs simply do not have the 'juice' to return year after year with the same sort of flower production - it is just not in their genes.

Hyacinths do return pretty reliably but seldom produce the very dense flower spikes as they do their first season. Again, they need very good drainage and minimal summer irrigation. For "peak" performance, I'd suggest replanting these annually as well.

After planting 200 and some I find out that you wast money on these.

So if you fertilizes them before after and in the Fall this would not help them?

So what bulbs come back year after year and have the same beautiful flowers they had the first year?

If you have good fertile soil, you shouldn't need to fertilize at all. Bulbs are pretty much self-contained nutrient storage units and fertilizing won't help them to perennialize any better than they are naturally inclined to do. It is important to leave all the foliage in place after flowering until it dries up and dies off naturally. This is what recharges the bulb for flowering next season.

Narcissus (daffodils), crocus and many of the lesser bulbs (muscari, galanthus, chionodoxa, etc.) return very reliably and often naturalize to form larger and large clumps over time. For summer flowering bulbs, lilies do the same.

John, tulip bulbs are 'splitters'. If you did one up after the foliage has yellowed you will see 4-7 smaller bulbs. Maybe one is large enuf to bloom the following season and the others have to grow to blooming size which could take 3-4 years. I have seen red tulips naturalize into gorgeous clumps. Neither owner knew the name of the tulip. One owner had what looked like pure potting mix as deep as his shovel went and probably deeper. Dry as a bone in summer.

Fertilizing once after foliage has emerged is recommended. None after that. Perhaps because nitrogen content encourages foliage growth sometimes at the expense of flowers.

I would type returning tulips in the search box.

I love having bulbs in the spring!
I have pretty good luck with certain tulips coming back. Some patches for more than ten years, so I must have the conditions they like. I have sandy soil on a slope, and that makes for good drainage.

They get watered all summer long because they're mixed in with the regular flower beds . If they don't get enough water during the year, they come back with weak foliage the next year and don't flower. Any that experience drought for too long don't return at all.

Lily flowering varieties as well as some of the early varieties do well here. Green tulips have come back about six years before fading away. My biggest losses happen when shrubs grow big and shade them too much, or they get crowded out by perennials.

No luck with peony flowering tulips, which look good only the first year and are completely gone by year three.

(Most of these are from Van Engelen, and they have them divided into these categories on their site.)

The large flowering hyacinths come back with sparse petals some years, but other years they are almost as full flowered as new ones. I figure weather has something to do with it.

Many daffodils are reliable, but a few won't like your zone so pay attention to that when buying. Crocus and Muscari (grape hyacinths) are also reliable. Experiment and see what works for you.

Has anyone grown Fritillaria, I tried them a coupe of times and never had luck with them.

I have hard that Muscari will spared and take over, this is what I hard. I think that they are very pertly and would be nice in the garden along the edge any ideals on where to put them? Which ones do you like and have the pick-me- up in the Spring?

Most spring flowering bulbs are extremely drought tolerant. They do not require regular summer irrigation nor do they appreciate it. That bulb is a moisture storage organism, which is why one is able to hold bulbs out of the ground indefinitely (provided necessary conditions are met) without the bulb deteriorating. Can't do the same with even drought tolerant plants!! And when you consider where most of these bulbs originated - southern Europe, Turkey, the Balkans, Eurasia, north Africa - they are accustomed to a Mediterranean climate characterized by warm, dry summers and mild, wet winters. The more one can replicate these growing conditions, the better these bulbs will perform and return in following years.

In my career as a professional gardener (landscape designer and horticultural consultant) I have grown pretty much the full panoply of spring flowering bulbs over the years. Most are very easy and require minimal to no attention once planted, provided you have picked a good site with the soil conditions they prefer; sharp, fast drainage being the primary concern.

Some bulbs are just easier to grow than others, just as some plants are easier/hardier than others. Narcissus (daffs) are about the easiest but I would also include crocus, species tulips, muscari and chionadoxa in the spring flowering group. Also squills and bluebells (Hyacinthoides species). Galanthus - snowdrops - are a bit harder to get established but will naturalize and return very well after that happens. Muscari do spread (naturalize) eagerly but are easy to control and have a long bloom season compared to most spring bulbs. Some frittilaria are very easy as well - checkered lily (Fritillaria meleagris) are very easy, naturalize well and are one of the few spring bulbs that will tolerate less than ideal drainage. I've also had great success with Fritillaria michailovskyi and persica. The one frit most gardeners have difficulty with is the Crown Imperial or Fritillaria imperialis - this one is very prone to rot so absolutely requires good drainage and NO summer irrigation.

A certain minimum level of soil fertility needs to be maintained for bulbs to keep their size and multiply. Especially built up garden selections like large flowered tulips and trumpet daffodils.

When I had a problem with Narcissus bulb fly in a clump of daffodils I dusted the soil around it with lawn fertilizer once or twice and there was no looking back after that - the improvement in size and vigor of the plants was tremendous, and fly damage was no longer evident. On gardened soils in my region nitrogen is often the only nutrient that needs to be supplemented.

The great majority of tulips, not just species or Darwins, but very many garden hybrids will return reliably with certain caveats. Most essentially, like bearded iris, these bulbs need to be dry over summer, with preferably NO mulch but bare soil - despite growing at depth, the bulbs need to be baked all summer. They also hate, hate, hate wet winter soil. Essentially, if you can grow them on a sunny scree bed with no competition and well drained soil_ fertility is less an issue if sufficient sunlight falls on the leaves - most tulips will return. They often don't return in pots because they split off into daughter bulbs too readily, and they don't return in the ground if they do not get a full sun and very well drained environment. Mine are in a stony soil and are dressed with gravel, maintaining a lot of summer radiation. Having said that, not all tulips are equal. The least reliable have been the very large flowered Triumph types (but not the Fosteriana) and some of the late singles seem to be less reliable than early singles. parrots, viridiflora are so-so while lily-flowered have been very reliable for me. Best of all, even in pots, are species such as batalinii, clusiana, humilis and, my top favourite although rare, the late sprengeri (easier to grow from seed than to source expensive bulbs).

True, my garden is a zone 8 sandy and stony open allotment in the UK but many clumps are over 15 years old - the ones I have lost have tended to be either overshadowed or thugged out by weeds and grass.I have never fertilised them, although I do top-dress the veggie beds (I grow a lot of tulips on the ends) with a compost topping (but not very rich in nutrients) but again, I do ensure the leaves are allowed to fully die back before removing or allowing other perennials to overshadow them. Perhaps less surprising, most of the older cultivars, which were bred from 'cottage' tulips - tend to have shorter stems, smaller flowers - are more reliable than some of the very large and blowsy doubles or modern varieties.

They never come back when underplanting shrubs, or (unlike narcissi) in grass.