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Green scrubby pad + soapstone

10 years ago

I'm still playing with some samples from Dorado. I really like the PA sample, though it does show scratches -- they look more like pencil marks under direct light. The scratches haven't bothered me, but apparently they bothered my husband because he used a green scrubby pad to see if he could buff them out. Now there's a very noticeable dull patch there. I oiled it, but it's still visible.

I felt that the scratches just blended in with the veining, and had no plans to ever try to buff out scratches.

I had also planned to leave the sample unoiled on one half, because I prefer the charcoal color and wanted to see it build a patina over the next couple of months to see if I really could live with it unoiled... but now all I have left is a tiny little ~1x1 area. Boo.

The other sample we like (Pratima) has a much smoother finish and seems pretty indestructible. However, I heard that the fabricator we plan to use (re)hones ALL soapstone, so I'm guessing that the finish on the sample would not be our actual finish.

Do you try to buff out scratches? Have you done so with success? Is there anything I can try to "fix" this little dull patch?

Comments (12)

  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    I wonder if the sample is finished in the same manner as would be done by the fabricator. It's possible the sample is 400 grit where what goes into your home would be 75-80 which would react differently to potential sources of scratches.


    I also think how soapstone reacts to oiling them varies depending on how it is finished. From what I gather some fabricators leave the stone at 400 grit which baffles me.

  • 10 years ago

    I found some of the M. teixeira samples were finished to a finer grit and did show the buff or sand marks when experimenting. After seeing our type (stormy black) in the show room finished at 80 grit (rough sounding for a counter) we chose that and it doesn't show buff marks. I have only scrubbed a little though. My husband was upset about a few he made so we used the rough side of sponge, not sand paper. One is completely invisible now. The deeper one (slipped steak knife cutting something other than steak on the counter) is still visible when not oiled or waxed but disappears when waxed. Such a strange material but I love it. Use a de-greaser or alcohol to get your sample back to natural state if you want. I've said this in another thread - I prefer the look and contrast to cabinets when oiled but prefer how it feels and cleans with no oil or wax. I only get water rings on the oiled areas and rubber feet of iPad case, water bottles, etc immediately pull up all the oil and you have light patches in those outlines that need constant re-oiling to be consistent. Also noticed rolling out dough the area is faded which means I've added it to my pizza! For this reason I am now not oiling my prep areas. Without oil or wax it is completely zero maintence.

  • 10 years ago

    I think that if you or he is upset about scratch marks then soapstone may not be for you.

  • 10 years ago

    Ewww... we definitely plan to roll dough on the counter. It's one of the main reasons I love the idea of soapstone! I'd be a little icked out if the oil pulled up into the dough. I really do love the unoiled look, feel, and color.

    Thanks for the tip about degreaser or alcohol. I'll try that!

    We are a bit fanatical about using cutting boards, so any scratches would probably be from dragging bowls/cups/etc. across the counter, or accidentally dropping things. I've been dropping a soup can and dragging a glass milk jug across my samples. I also have a big outdoor stake that I've been using to make scratches and dings.

    I have all the samples (including the ones I don't like) set up next to my sink so they get splashed and mucked up with dirty dishes. I've been telling my kids to use them as coasters for their wet glasses. I sprayed them with the vinegar Windex spray that I use on my stove, and one of them got a big, ugly dark blotchy mark that seemed to run along a vein (Minas). It's like it seeped along. I wanted to make sure that the soapstone I choose won't have a problem with overspray, since I love that Windex for the stove!

  • 10 years ago

    bcafe -- yup, that's why we ordered samples early. So that we can see them day after day, getting worn. I've been completely fine with it and the scrubby incident was the first time I realized my husband wasn't as OK as me.

    But, he said he'd be much, much more bothered by stains, so he'd prefer soapstone over granite or anything else that might stain.

  • 10 years ago

    I use a green scrubby on my soapstone almost daily, and haven't oiled it in over two years. By scrubbing the entire surface with whatever grit you choose, it becomes uniform again.

  • 10 years ago

    I noticed the alcohol by mistake while making martinis on oiled counter. And the area around the dish soap evaporates quickly. Other than removing oil or wax no cleaners have left a mark of any kind, including windex.

    cookandcarpenter - would you post a pic of your counters? I'm curious how dark they are after 2 years. Ours are only 6 months. Thanks.

  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    Quartz is superior to soapstone and granite. Scratch and stain resistant and maintenance free.

    http://www.menards.com/main/kitchen/countertops-laminate/c-14116.htm

  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    Maybe quartz is superior, but it's completely NMS. As it is, I don't care for the look of granite, either. I pretty much only like quartzite and soapstone, but quartzite is out of the budget.

  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    They all look like stone to me.... Actually if budget is a problem, there are plenty of laminate that look like stone. I am in the process of ordering a laminate with an undermount sink. Real stone is out of my league and I wouldn't recoup the cost in current location if selling anyhow.

  • 10 years ago

    @Vith -- I view quartz as being very uniform in pattern/color, even when it's made to look swirly. The swirls are still too uniform. Granite is speckled and has shiny mica bits. Soapstone is randomly swirly or veined without any shiny bits or speckles. That's what drew me to it!

    @everyone -- what would you do to try to get that dull area from the scrubby out? Should I sand the whole thing, and with what grit? We're playing around with what we CAN or SHOULDN'T do to soapstone, to test our limits on what we can take/deal with, if that makes sense! Thanks!

  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    While not impervious to heat, it is heat resistant. It took 20
    seconds for a blow torch at approx 3500 degrees to affect the quartz. I
    will agree granite is stronger than quartz for heat, but
    last I checked we arent applying straight fire to our countertops.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZYfi9f-gOEQ