Ideally 12 VDC, though I have seen in service manuals that allow 10.5 VDC as a minimum spec. when all was said and done. It may be a question for the clutch manufacturer. The coil basically becomes an electro magnet when energized. Run your engine and check both Dc and AC at the connector.

So, I'm lucky enough to order just the electro magnet from Warner. Is there a break in period? Is the clear outer resin suppose to expand and turn black filling the housing?

Not that I am aware of regarding an amount of time. Clutch manufactures suggest a burnishing procedure to help the surfaces mate and hopefully extend the life of the clutch. Considering this is a rear mount clutch, you may want to ask them for a suggested procedure. Usually it is a matter of cycling the clutch switch before implement actually has to work. The duration, rpms, and number of times are what is fluid. The resin should not be! Unless I'm told otherwise, I cycle the PTO switch 10 times at ~ 3/4 throttle. Will you kill the clutch if you don't? Likely not. Most new tractors never go through the burnishing sequence.

Something just seems wrong about this whole scenario. A new unit "burned up" after 45 minutes of use? Have you checked the voltage to the unit? too little may allow it to partially energize and "slip" friction would then cause heat and burn it up. Simply unplugging and testing the input wiring with a meter wouldn't tell you anything, have to check it energized. Maybe push a couple of straight pins into the wiring and using them to measure energized voltage. Be careful they don't contact the frame!

I'd measure battery terminal voltage at full throttle and compare it to whatever results you find from the first paragraph. You might have a damaged wire, connector or switch, which, due to voltage drop is starving the solenoid.

The other scenario would be excessive voltage to the solenoid, but not aware of any failure in a LT/GT which could cause excessive voltage. Even if your charging system is a simple diode and it shorted, you'd have other issues if your DC was actually AC.

Good luck,

To add to my previous post, did you adjust the new clutch per specs? Been a while, but last one I installed I seem to recall adjusting or verifying it to .010 as part of the install.

Thanx for the info. There is no adjustment for the rear PTO on the Ariens GT19. The front/mid pto has adjustment screws. Previous owner had wired the PTO indicator lights though one diode, I added a second diode, one per indicating light, following the original schematics. Yesterday, I received my new coil from Warner. This one was in cased in a black resin, the one that burnt was in clear resin. I'm wondering if there could be a temperature tolerance difference in the resins. Because there's no problem with the front PTO, I'm going to test the voltage at different point and compare the front/rear. Previously the voltage regulator tested correctly, but I will retest.

Not talking about the VR, assume it's working OK and the battery is properly charged. Talking about the Voltage physically at the soenoid coil, if you have a bad wire, connector, switch, etc. you can have 12+VDC at the battery and less at the "load." in this case the solenoid.

Finally got it figured out. It was a bad bearing/collar. Heat created from the bad bearing traveled in the axel. It got so hot that it melted the insulator around the coil, shorting it out. Thanks to everyone.