Really, these names only have a broad hint of what the actual color is, and whomever mixed up the stain can call any specific formulation "provincial" or "walnut." In fact, if you get stains by this name from 3 different manufacturers, you could have three different colors. Or even the same name from one manufacturer in different bases (oil-based, water-borne, gel, wipe vs. spray, etc.) you might have variations.

In addition the wood species itself might have radical impact on the final color -- for example, Minwax "Golden Oak" on red oak looks light brown, but on ash (a wood that looks very much like red oak from a distance), it's significantly yellow. And of course, the same stain is going to look different if the wood has its own color and degree of absorption -- poplar, maple, cherry, walnut, red and white oak are all going to be different.

The real answer is to have your guy run some trials on scrap, all the way through finish top coat and see what the result is before committing to your project.

To add to the good advice from Bobismyuncle, stains done by many companies are actually a combination of three or four stain colors. And there are also toners and tints added to the finish after the stain.

So, experimenting is the key.

Or, don't put any stain on the red oak and just do the clear coat finish. Natural finished woods coordinate a lot easier. Red oak also is a wood that looks nice natural, unlike pine for example.

Pick several stains close to the color you think you want, based on the color cards. Ignore the names, just look at the colors. Make a test swatch of each one, including the finish layers, on a sample of the wood you will be using. (you can use the underside of the top)

Then you can evaluate them against the floor.

Mixing colors works well - but TEST the mix to make sure it's what you want.

I use "Red Mahogany", which is REALLY, REALLY RED, to warm up colors that are too brown. Use Red Mahogany in very small quantities.

Ebony or Java can make something that is already brown darker or browner. Also use in small quantities.

It's hard to do much with the yellowish shades, except make them reddish yellow, which is ORANGE. I stay away from them, unless I'm doing something with "golden oak" furniture.

One of the best ways I've found to deepen a stain's color without affecting the red-brown axis much - but unpredictably - is to start with the vinegar and steel wool solution, then the oil-based stain over the top.