Thanks for responding, Beachem. I'm doing Dynasty/Omega and am about 50/50. I got those measurement from her and realized they won't work. So, I'm trying to figure out what will, then she can check them again, to make sure.

You have 30" of exterior dimension to work with for bases. It's all designed as a system, so that you have horizontal alignment all the way across the kitchen, all with 6" top drawers, etc. A 3 drawer stack is 1 6" drawer and 2 12". A 4drawer stack is 3 6" drawers and 1 12". You're not doing custom height drawers without moving up to Omega. And it is not worth the $$$. You can fit almost anything you want into a standard configuration.

Sophie, thank you.

The measurements I have are much smaller. So, do I need to have them double checked? They are inset.

4 drawer stack, exterior height 4 inches each, interior 3.5 inches each

What I learned with inset - if your's are painted, think long and hard about the heights - particularly the top row. As someone who isn't persnickety with flatware and utensils, I wouldn't be happy with "standard" first drawer depths. I am just not that careful and a lot of our utensils would hit and dent/ding/scratch the cabinet above the drawer if the first drawers were standard.

Thank you, Nightowl.

My cooking utensils and knives were all shoved into a 4x11 inch drawer, seriously. Now, they'll be split between a 3.5x25 and 3.5x31.

Flatware and baking utenisls were in a single 4x31 and now will be split among 2 3.5x31s an a 3.5x22.

I think that should work?

So is the 3.5" height standard on a 6" frames drawer. If so, I may ask my cabinet maker to do them at 7" and adjust the lower ones accordingly. Does anyone with framed I set cabinets have issues with drawer depth?

My old framed drawer was 4 inch interior height.

Make sure they are giving you clearance height. Many will have a drawer box that is a little shorter than the clearance.

You lose about an inch of height clearance with undermount glides.

Framed cabinets lose 1-1/2" for every rail. With insets some brands allow you to delete one, the one between the two lower drawers.

A full subtop helps prevent things getting stuck behind him top rail.

Some brands have a 4" toe space instead of 4-1/2". The extra half inch usually goes to the top drawer.

Some brands that make both inset and overlay make the top drawer taller.

Be extremely careful if/where you have top drawers of differing heights very hard to make look good.

I don't know the specs for dynasty/omega. Maybe LWO will chime in.

Just because a drawer is 6" does not mean that you can assume clearance without actual measuring or info from Dynasty.

I just measures my old 6" drawer and the interior height is a smidgen above 3 1/4". These are full overlays.

As Jakuval pointed out, you can't get custom measurements with Dynasty other than maybe increased depth. You would have to upgrade to Omega.

Thats why I discussed in another thread that most people only do 3 drawers stacks for framed. The face frame eats up 3" and the stiles 1 1/2" each. You get more stiles when you get more drawers so your usable space keeps getting smaller.

With 4 drawers, you need to subtract out 7 1/2" leaving you with 22.5" for splitting the interior height between 4 drawers.

If the KD gave you total interior height of 18.5" for 3 drawers then you have to take into account allowance for bottom mount when you calculate 4 drawers.

Thanks you all!

From what I gather from above.....

reduced height bake area 30" w/ 2 drawers - 4.5" toe kick = 25.5" - 4.5" face and style = 21" - 2" glides = 19" / 2 drawers = 9.5 each drawer front - .5 difference exterior to interior = 9" interior height