How much light are you providing for it? When you water, do you do so in sips? Or do you flush the soil each time until 10-15% comes out of the drain hole?

Pothos leaves do yellow all the time but you can do a few things to slow this down. People tend to abuse pothos way more than they should by putting them in a dark corner and forgetting to water them because they are so resilient. However they grow in the jungle with a lot of indirect light and a lot of moisture, clinging to trees and growing toward the light. In addition to light, people forget to feed them.

They are very heavy feeders and like moist soil, not dry. A weak solution, 1/4 of the recommended strength, of and acid loving or foliage fertilizer sprayed on the leaves about once a week will help. People also tend to under water pothos because they are so easy to forget. Take your plant to the shower and give it a warm shower for about 15 minutes. Make sure the peat is nice and saturated, then drain. When the top inch or so is dry water it again. Do not wait until it is completely dry or you will end up with a huge brick of peat and damaged roots.

You can also take a few of the long branches and wrap them around in the inside of the pot to make the plant more full. The roots will take hold and a new plant will form at each new node. You can also speed this process by cutting off the end of your long stems, this will cause the plant to 'back bud' which pretty much means to activate buds further up the stem to produce stems and leaves. Do not be afraid if your plant starts dripping water from the cut stems, this is normal for aroids.

Another cause for yellowing leaves are spider mites. Check the underside of the yellowing leaves for webbing, then check the green ones too. Winter is a bad time for mites since most houses are dry and have very little humidity. A shower is also a good way to increase the humidity and help wash mites off of leaves.

I can almost guarantee giving your plant a shower will really make it perk up. HTH

Wow! What incredible replies.

I learned the hard way that Pothos don't like direct light, or even bright light. I've had this plant about 15 feet from a tall bank of southern-facing windows. Each day I rotate it a quarter turn a few times so it's getting full light. If it's really dark and dreary outside, I'll put it on a shelf right next to its regular location so it can get a bit more light. I've been trying to baby this thing.

As for water, I made a mistake early on and watered it too frequently, and had some yellowing leaves. I started watering about every two weeks. It did well with this until recently when I had surgery and watered all my plants before surgery.

I've read to let Pothos start to droop a bit before watering, and I was trying that.

When I water, it's until water comes out the holes in the bottom of the pot. I collect rainwater and buy distilled water for certain plants. This is one of them. I have hard water in my house, and some plants can take it. I didn't want to find out this was one that couldn't.

I don't know what fertilizer you're referring to. As for the time in the shower, that makes me nervous. I'd heard a similar suggestion for Majesty Palms, did that, and its roots rotted something fierce.

I inspect it daily for bugs. I had some bug problems a couple of months ago, and sprayed every plant in the house for a week to get rid of them. This isn't a bug problem.

When you talk about taking a branch inside the pot for it to root, are you saying take the extreme outside end of a branch and bring that back inside? Is it to be buried in the dirt?

I do cut the ends of long branches/vines now, as I want the plant to be full around the pot. I don't want it to be a long vine.

When you touch the soil is it hard to the touch? Could the whole rootball have become hard & water repellant?

It's not soft. I have a hard time finding a spot of soil where I can insert my finger.

Sounds like you have a very peaty soil. You are doing more harm to your plant by letting the soil dry between waterings. You should probably change the soil and your watering issues will be a lot easier. For now, you need to soak the root ball and loosen it. Put the pot in a sink full of water and let it sit for about 20 minutes to half an hour. Wait until all the soil is saturated and soft then drain it and put it back. Do not let the soil dry out again. This is part of your problem with yellowing leaves.

I've long suspected that the soil the plant came in wasn't the best. I can barely find any soil.

So you're saying to put the entire pot in a sink for water for 20-30 minutes, then drain? Seems counter-intuitive, but I'll give it a try.

That is about the only way to heal peaty soil. It must draw in as much water as it can and just watering it will not do that, the water will just run down the sides of the soil mass without even getting to the roots as needed. Another way to do this is to water it with ice cubes so as they melt the water has time to soak into the soil, but it is too cold to be doing that right now.

So, when the plant needs watering, soak the pot in water?

Yes, that will work, so will the shower. Be sure to use warm water, not cold, nor hot. I prefer to put my plants in the the shower but right now with crusty soil it needs a soak, just be sure the plant drains really well before putting it back and it doesn't sit in water afterwards. Tilt the pot a couple of times to release the perched water before moving it back.

Glad we could help!

I'm glad I thought to ask that. To me, the hardened off rootball is the telltale sign to change mix. That the mix has become too hard to absorb, rejecting water unless left to soak for considerable time as Mentha explained.

If mine, I'd change the mix in Spring to something like Houseplant or Cactus & Succulent soil w/ added perlite maybe 1/3 as much, that would make it fast draining & avoid same problem in future.

Good to hear the plants are so much better!