Vinny, can you share with us why you think this tree is growing in a "weird" shape and what you think it should look like? FWIW, I see nothing with that tree to indicate it has been "highly neglected" -- just the opposite.......it looks to be in very good shape.

Like nicholsworth. I'd question the need for pruning as well. JM's simply do not require much in the way of pruning except for the removal of dead or damaged wood and the occasional crown thinning. Weeping dissectums are often pruned to enhance that sculptural, gnarled or contorted trunk and branch structure but uprights do not share these characteristics and in the thoughts of the majority of JM aficionados, less is more when it comes to pruning. I simply don't see any need for pruning at all! And certainly not Cut #1 - low branching is one of the best and most attractive features of these small trees.

btw, should you decide to prune anyway, skip any 'cut paste', Japanese or otherwise. Applying any sort of wound dressing to pruning cuts is very old school and outdated and a no longer recommended practice. It is far preferable to allow the tree to compartmentalize naturally and seal the wound itself.

Agree with everything gardengal said...hope you let it be...

Yeah, forget about the paste. It's been proven that it's more of a problem than a solution.

I too fail to see why it needs to be pruned unless you're trying to turn it into a predetermined shape of your own imagination.

It appears it had been growing in a shadier place than where it's now. It will fill in by itself as it adjusts to it's new location.

I like the windswept look, myself. That sets it apart from the average Japanese maple you see.

Mike

Hello all, thank you so much for taking the time to share your thoughts. I too would prefer to leave the tree alone if possible. The only reason I thought it needed some heavier pruning was because I thought that a 50/50-ish "V" split at the base weakened the tree. For this reason, I felt it might have been a good idea to prune the right side canopy this year to slow its growth and eliminate it completely next year. But if the overall sentiment is that the tree is healthy and the large split at the base won't weaken it, then I am relieved to know I can leave it alone.

With regards to shape: I am ok with its current shape. The tree does look like it was trying to escape from the shady spot, and from some angles it's easy to see it was growing in a specific direction... Also, after transplanting it to its new spot, the canopy does brush against the deck (more than brush, I'd say some of the branches can easily go a couple of feet past the railing in some spots), but if that can be left alone, I will.

Thank you for the heads up about the cut paste. I already ordered it, but I will refrain from using it.

PS= if anyone has any advice on the best way to propagate some of the cuts from this tree, it would be great. Is there a branch diameter after which propagation becomes impossible? I understand smaller, younger cuts are easier to propagate, but some of the larger pieces I cut (see pic) are about 2cm in diameter at the base, and I would love to propagate them as well if there's a way.

Japanese maples are extremely difficult to grow from cuttings. If you had root stock available, I'd suggest grafting or you can try air layering.

Seeds work, but the parentage is suspect so they will be different than the original and can't be called by the same name. Most of the time they will look fairly similar but will always be known as a seedling derived Japanese maple rather than a named grafted variety.

I grow Japanese maples from seed just so I can see what I come up with.

Mike