Thank you for your response. No, those brown spots are just bare dirt, where the Bermuda is thinning, although in the mean time I did scalp, yesterday. I'm trying to get a schedule going based on my soill test.

Thank you.

Andy

Hopefully morpheusPA will be able to help with your chemistry. Good luck this year!

Raising your PH is going to make a really big difference for you. It'll make more Mg and Ca available and knock the available toxic aluminum way down.

ph 4.7 is pretty low. You need one of the experts to help you, in the meantime use the search function to read older soil test threads where Morpheus responded. This is the basic info I have available from a quick google search:

"Use dolomitic limestone to adjust the pH if your soil test shows that your soil is low in magnesium. Pulverized limestone is the most common and inexpensive acid neutralizer. Use this limestone if you don't need to add magnesium to your soil"

Source:

http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-adjust-soil-ph-for-your-garden.html

I don't see anything that looks horribly abnormal for winter bermuda. Once it awakens it will look considerably different. Do you know if the bermuda came from sod or seed?

Bermuda came from sod I'm pretty sure. Some years ago was better and slowly it is deteriorating. I read a bunch about Bermuda here but I'm still not sure if I can go with the fertilizing schedule from my soil test or do I need to change anything. I bought 90 lbs of Pennington fast release plus limestone that will go down on 9000 sqf, can I use this instead of the 90 lbs./1k dolomitic recommended by the soil lab? I attached a recent picture of the worst thinning area.

Wish List · More Info

Yes, calcitic lime (which I believe the Pennington is) would actually be preferable to the dolomitic. It will be more effective (faster) at adjusting PH. You can use Epsom Salt to adjust the Mg. Unfortunately, I can't advise you on the quantities to use for either.

Bermuda almost never does well up against a building unless it is on the south side of the building. It needs full sun for at least 6 hours. By the shadows in your recent picture I'm guessing that is the east or west side of the building. I would start thinking about a different kind of ground cover up by the house. One grass that would have been acceptable in there was Shadow Turf, but it's not available anymore. It was a shade loving zoysia that looks a lot like hybrid bermuda. St Augustine would work but it has a completely different texture. Also the St Aug would spread out into the bermuda and try to take it over. Unless you want to convert, I would not use St Aug in there. Grass might not work for you there.

My neighbor has some kind of grass on his North side that invades very slowly his Bermuda, it's very thick and nice to walk on, I'm gonna ask for some patches to see how that works. In the mean time thank you all for your responses.

Andy

Sorry for the delay! I'm not sure of the accuracy of this test, but we'll play it as though it's accurate. Most soil tests, frankly, stink.

Phosphorus 11: Quite low, my target would be 25-30. We use starter fertilizer to slowly raise this, and your bermuda will want monthly feeding anyway, so we can do both at once. Recommendations below, and just choose the cheapest starter (fertilizer with a larger second number). They all work the same.

Calcium 367 PPA: Low, but not ridiculously so. I'm winging the math off the LBC, so I'm being fairly gentle here (I'd rather work off a cation exchange capacity and saturation percentage, but that's just me). We'll want to use calcitic lime to adjust this--Mag-I-Cal, Encap, or Pennington Fast Lime--as they're faster (months instead of years), more effective, and easier to handle.

Magnesium 31 PPA: Low, and a reason to distrust your test. Georgia soils aren't generally that magnesium short, but it does happen. I'm being very gentle here. We use Epsom salt (magnesium sulfate) to adjust this, which you can get at any pharmacy or your local grocery store. Get the big generic bag, they're all the same and those will be cheaper.

Potassium 80 PPA: Low, and this one I can believe. We use potassium sulfate (sulfate of potash) to correct this, which you can usually purchase at garden shops or landscape stores--or they'll order it for you. Recommendations below.

Zinc and Manganese: Both fine, no adjustments required.

Other minor elements: Not tested.

Recommendations:

April 1: Apply 6 pounds of calcitic lime per thousand square feet.

April 15: Apply 2 pounds of Epsom salt per thousand square feet.

May 1: Apply starter fertilizer at bag rate.

May 15: Apply 3 pounds of potassium sulfate per thousand square feet.

June 1: Feed with any high-nitrogen fertilizer at bag rate.

July 1: Apply starter fertilizer at bag rate.

August 1: Feed with any high-nitrogen fertilizer at bag rate.

September 1: Apply starter fertilizer at bag rate.

September 15: Apply 3 pounds of potassium sulfate per thousand square feet.

October 1: Apply 6 pounds of calcitic lime per thousand square feet.

October 15: Apply 2 pounds of Epsom salt per thousand square feet.

Thank you, Jedi Morpheuspa for the schedule, I will follow it and I'll post later in the year how's going. Have a great day!

My neighbor has some kind of grass on his North side that invades very slowly his Bermuda,

Yes. Do that.

This is the grass from my neighbor, what do you think it is, and if it's gonna work for the Shady areas.

Thank you.