Camellias like to be in well draining, mulched (3-4"), acidic soil that is evenly moist -not wet, not dry- and where they get afternoon shade, a stable supply of water and fertilizers like cottonseed meal or composted manure. If you live in a hot climate like me, some protection from drying winds in the summer may be needed. If you live in an area with cold weather, some protection from the reeeeeeal early morning sun on freezing days may be helpdul too.

Aside from that, one has to deal with the weather. Wild temperature fluctuations can make camellias abort flower buds if it gets warm for a while and then harsh winds & cold temps quickly tumble down below freezing. This can make the camellia abort the flower buds (they turn brown and fall down). Mid-flowering Japonica varieties like Debutante, etc are the ones that typically usually suffer from that. Early flowering japonicas may skip the REALLY cold weather but may get hit with frost late in the Fall. Late flowering japonicas can get hit by late frosts.

Periods of dry soil, wet soil, dry soil again, etc can also trigger bud drop so make sure you water it as the soil is just starting to go dry..

Large amounts of fertilizers can also create issues so make sure that you use about 1/2 to 1 cup of cottonseed meal or composted manure for a plant of that size.

My area in the Dallas/Fort Worth Metroplex suffers from that weather issue so I try to maintain the soil acidic & evenly moist in winter, especially right before a drop in temps. Some people, when they see "bad" weather coming into town from forecasts well into the future can apply gibberellic (sp?) acid (1-2 drops per flower bud) and this makes the plant open buds early and sometimes larger than usual. I have not tried that myself.

If your weather will have frost, you can also cover the plant with frost cloth such that the cloth is not touching the plant. You may want to buy the cloth much larger than the plant is to account for future growth as most people who have used suggest holding it with rocks to prevent air from coming inside from the bottom. Then remove it the next morning.

Lastly, there is camellia bud mite that can get into flower buds and cause them to open late or drop. Below is a link to some reading material on camellia bud mite and these other issues that I mentioned:

http://www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic/pests/plant_pests/shrubs/hgic2053.html

Transplanting sometimes corrects this issue when you provide a location where its needs are met. I noticed your leaves may be getting too much sun. The color looks bronze-like and areas look like they had sun scorch.

I usually do not get hit by bud drop much (knock on wood) and at worst, the japonicas simply stop blooming and restart when it is warmer.

looks like you have marble slabs around the planting area. it is one of the carbonate stones like limestone and is alkaline. that, along with the concrete foundation/footing, can leach into the surrounding soil causing them to become alkaline. attend to any poor drainage issues mentioned by luis, if they exist. is that bed covered by the roof overhand or is it at the drip line?

a soil test will reveal the alkalinity of the soil and, if that is the case, try something to acidify the soil like holly-tone fertilizer.

Thanks lot of info. Iam thinking it might be necessary to move to area with afternoon shade. Unfortunately I get full sun completely and ver little shade anywhere. Should I try to grow it in container

where I can bring it in? It has been dry watered than dry again when I think about it I water it. Still not sure what to do to get a healthy blooming flower live in zone 9

A container would allow you to move it around as the year progresses and as you find that it may be getting too much sun. For example, you could place it in bright shade in between the two green chairs found in your first picture (I am assuming the afternoon sun will not hit that area but you get the idea). Container growing lets you place the pot in cement surfaces where the plant cannot be in now.Locations facing the east will get afternoon shade so look around.

Unfortunately, container plants require more frequent waterings and feeding of fertilizers/amendments so be aware. You can water it when the top 3-4" feel almost dry or dry when you insert a finger into the soil.

Again it is full sun. I think the container idea is great. Any particular kind of soil to plant the Camilia in. Also should I cut it back? And should I fertilize it as soon as I transplant it. What would be a flower to put there instead that needs the full sun and blooms large blooms.