The paper clip worked great!!! So easy! Thanks so much!

For those who have used the paper clip trick - has it continued to work? I am now dealing with the same issue and looking for a solution.

We don't have a kitchenaid, but we did just buy a whirlpool with the same issue. We asked the advice of our appliance repairman and he said to level it so that gravity would keep the door from swinging too wide. Going to try this today.

After ordering a door stop for the KitchenAid (# KRSC503ESS), it was weird that it came with no instructions. The first call to Kitchenaid Parts Chat, the customer service rep sent me a YouTube video on an installation of a different door stop. Another attempt at chat today and after 30 minutes, the rep said there was no available installation guide for this part but he emailed me a picture from the manual of where the part goes and told me:

I do not show instructions specific to this part and model in
the system here. Typically, one would remove the top hinge bracket to lift the
door off to install the bracket underneath the door. I sent a parts diagram
showing the location of this part to your e-mail address. Again no help. I will try the paperclip method and if it works, I will send this part back.

I ordered the same part! Waiting to have it installed, using a paperclip now which seems to be working, but I'm constantly afraid it's going to pop off and the door will slam into my oven handle.

I just hate the thought of paying a $100 repair visit on a 24.00 part

I ran into this same issue during our current reno and here is what my DH came up with. He stacked very strong neodymium magnets into the desired length and made sure the last one was circular so it can act as a dampener and to prevent a sharp edge from cutting into the plastic. He is an EE so he had a few of these available, but you can find them at a local store.

Neodymium magnets are not very structurally sound. They are made of a brittle ceramic that breaks down even faster, when it gets wet -- and natural moisture in the air is sufficient to do that.

In order for them to not immediately break down, they are coated in a thin layer of metal. That's what you see on the outside. But this protective coating definitely can get damaged. And if you regularly squish it with the door, it inevitably will get little scratches and dents. That ultimately will make the magnet fail over time.

Adapting from the binder clip and magnet ideas, I used tongue depressors stacked into the correct shape and then wrapped in duct tape wedged into the gap. When I found the right size/shape, I cut off the tongue depressors so you can't see them.
First pic is what the hinge looks like 'empty'. Second one is 'filled with the door closed. Third one is the open door hitting the 'door stop'.

As far as visibility, that door hinge faces a cabinet (the one that was at risk of being hit) so no one can see it.

I think the wood also provides a little bit of cushion. I was nervous about using something metal against the plastic of the hinge.

Thanks all for sparking the creative juices.

To all: what model fridge do you have using these methods to successfully modify the hinge?

Wondering because we are considering ordering KRFC302EPA- but are concerned because it has the potential to hit the wall next to the fridge.

Thanks for the help!

Ours (the tongue depressor approach) is a Kenmore Elite 75043.

Just used the magnet suggestion on our Whirlpool French door model. Works perfectly!

All of these kludges that just having a better design could have prevented!

Kudos to those who solved a vexing problem! I hope Whirlpool has improved the design by now.

Having the same issue with a Fisher Paykel French door model, thanks for the ideas!

Having the same issue with my new kitchen aid......in doing these hacks I don't want to break the door.....I only need it to stop less than and inch. Are all these hacks still working good for everyone?

The binder clip still works for me.

Frank Graziosi mine still works, but I would try one of the less invasive fixes first.

I also used the sheet metal screw almost two years ago. It is working perfectly. I would have used the paper binder clip first if I'd known about it.

My father designed an ingenious solution. He attached a small suction cup (that had a hook on its top) to the interior compartment wall and one suction cup

to the interior swinging door. He then connected the two with a shoelace adjusted to the length that would allow the door to open the desired amount. It is unobtrusive, inexpensive and solves the problem. We, too, went through trying to buy parts that didn't work!

just bought a KitchenAid KRBR102ESS but my solution would work for a lot of units.

I removed the swing limiter - the one provided that stops the door from swinging past 180 degress- then added a piece if steel. reattached and now the door swings about 95 degress. enough to get drawers out. it would otherwise hit a built-in cabinet counter and dent the front door. still only the first week but it's working great. I wouldn't lean or push on the door but assembly is reasonably strong and should be any worse than the system was already designed to take. the suction cups soluntion wouldn't fly here and I think it's reasonably simple.

I drilled two stainless screws through the limiter and a small piece of steel (cut ~2 5/8" long, extending the old one by ~5/8th inch). only took a few minutes. and maybe $3 dollars of parts. wish I welded it but the wife is ok with two more screw heads.

I may disassemble and repaint the thing to blend in better. the steel does rub off a bit of paint on the hinge side that stops the door so might also add a rubber bumper or plastic dip the end of my steel plate.... but really seems to blend as-is.


before and after images attached.

Tried the binder clip on a new Whirlpool refrigerator. Working good so far.

I used a bolt screwed into the top. lo

Or better still you could design the kitchen correctly so you don't have to do hacks.

annielee50, I have a new Whirlpool side-by-side and also need to restrict the right door opening. I don't quite know how you attached the binder clip. My model number is WRS325SDHZ. If your unit is the same or similar could you post a photo of your install? Whirlpool was absolutely no help. Thank you...…..Ralph

My Kitchen Aide counter depth has the same issue. I didn't like the devices folks put at the top hinge because it's stopping against a piece of plastic. On the door bottom, there is a small metal piece of angle iron (that makes it sound really robust, its really a thin sheet metal bracket), this metal piece is what hits the door stop. I think I fixed it with a piece of an "S" hook that I cut mid-way (so it's a "C" shaped piece of round metal). I smashed it in a vise to the point where it closed down enough to grip the hinge, and it seems to be working great. The problem is really due to the "detent" built into the door, if you watch the door/hinge from a mouse's viewpoint, you can see the door actually raises up when you open it. This helps gravity pull the door shut when it's "almost closed". A similar detent exists at the full open position, and this causes the door to spring open 100% (and bang my cabinets). Modifying this open detent would probably solve the problem, but clamping this piece of and "S" hook onto the hinge seems to be OK for now.

I contacted the local dealer I bought the fridge from and they sent someone out to adjust the level on the fridge. They shimmed up the front foot under the hinge so the door is balanced (but still self closes).

This is a good reason to support your local appliance businesses! Big box dealers won't do this for you.

Same problem with Bosch 800. Above mentioned s- shape hook changed into c-shape won’t work - there is not enough ledge to place it. Did anyone solve this problem?

I just came up with a change to my Whirlpool side by side using industrial strength velcro and it works beautifully. I am on my way out of town but will return on Wednesday. I will post photos of what I did. It is real easy to do . I have hesitated posting because I wanted to wait longer to make sure it held as it has only been one week. I am very optimistic and will post and let you decide...........Ralph

Here is a photo and explanation of what I did/ I first installed a 2"x6" strip of velcro on each side of the door then made a loop with a black strong string material, then folded and wrapped a 2"x5" strip of velecro around it on both ends and attached it to the refrigerator wall. This gave me a much stronger hold rather than using a single strand. The industrial strength velcro holds extremely well. Incidentally, Velcro and Hook and Loop are slightly different, Velcro was recommended to me as being stronger. Anyway, my mind and my typing isn't always in sync, hope it makes sense..............Ralph

I forgot to mention, using Velcro made it extremely easy to adjust the closure string length by just moving the string strip and if necessary easily creating a new one. One thing that is important is to clean the refrigerator wall where you are going to attach the velcro, I used rubbing alcohol as it was available to me.

One final comment. I purchased the Velcro which is adhesive backed at my local hardware store where it is sold either by the roll or by the foot. Cost was $3.89 per foot or $37 per roll so check local stores if you decide to use this method as online is sold only by the roll............Ralph

Ralph,

i just purchased an Amana model ABB2224BRW. It is a refrigerator on top, freezer on bottom. The refrigerator swings all the way open and hits the wall. It has a door stop installed. How can I make it stop where I want to like my last one? You could open that and it would stay in ANY POSITION.

Does the manual indicate if it is adjustable, if not my solution should work on your refrigerator door as well. My fix is still working perfectly. My main concern was whether the velcro would be affected and loosen due to the cold temperature and humidity which it has not so far, it is tight as the day I applied it. It just has to be industrial grade Velcro. There are 2 slightly different types that you can buy, Velcro which I used and Hook & Loop, they are not the same. Hope this helps..

Make sure you open the doors enough so that it is easy for cleaning.

Ralph, thank you for the solution and detailed instructions. I thought long and hard of some more elegant and subtle way to stop the door on my Bosch 800 but came up with nothing. I've done what you recommended and it works perfect. It is very adjustable and can be easily undone if shelves need to be removed. The only difference that the part on my refrigerator door where the velcro can be attached is much more narrow but I used a thinner strip. I also used a white string which is less noticeable. I got the industrial strength velcro strips with adhesive back from Michaels (4"x 2" two strips $4.99), other craft stores probably have the same. As states on the package the operating temperature 0F - 120F. Another tip - don't cut the strips short, keep the length as it is. They don't hold the door well if they too thin and short. I made mine 1" x 4". The white string is also from Michaels.

That is great news Natalie, glad I could help. You are absolutely right about not cutting it too short, I forgot to mention that. The extra length provides additional strength. I too was going to go with a white string but I had this black one that was quite strong so used it instead.

Ralph, thank you for the Velcro idea. Just used it in my GE refrigerator. I used a white shoelace. It’s unbelievable that we spend so much money on refrigerators, but there’s no way to prevent the door from swinging wide open. Mine kept hitting the glass door on my washer, but no more. 😊

Glad to hear it is working well for you. Mine is still going strong. It is amazing that a simple change to the hinge to allow closure adjustment would have avoided all our problems.. They probably saved $2 at most however; they may have lost me as a future customer.......Ralph

This discussion was really helpful when I was struggling with the same issue. I had ordered these rubber cones to prevent my cabinets from getting marked up from hitting the wall and thought I'd try them instead of the binder clips. Here's the link to the cones:

Amazon Link

This provides a 'soft' stop to the door and has worked amazingly well.

Question for Kent Spesard: I see the clip in your photos. But, where is the wire? Is it somehow attached to the clip and the hinge?

We purchased our KitchenAid side by side counter depth refrigerator (# KRSC503ESS) in 2016. We've been fighting the refrigerator door issue for 6 years. Finally found a permanent, professional fix. The refrigerator was manufactured with a door stop bracket that was mis-engineered. Kitchenaid / Whirlpool has since replaced the stop with one that is engineered correctly. The stop flange is angled correctly now and is slightly longer. The part number is W11037957. The install is simple. I purchased ours in cash but KitchenAid SHOULD provide the replacement for free.

Hi... I know this is an old subject, but here is my $3.50 Mama fix. I did not want to use metal against metal (scratch up my new Whirlpool fridge) so I went with nylon. First I bought tarp clamps (Princess Auto $1.99) because the groove was just perfect to fit on the hinge. Then I bought flower wire $1.50 at the dollar tree. I separated 1 clamp and used the disk part and sliced it in half. I drilled two holes, one on each end (see pic) and attached the half disk to the hinge. Now the door does not open too far, is cushioned when it reaches the limiter and can only be seen from the side. If you need it to open further, just cut a slice (like a pie slice) and the door will open further.

Brilliant! :-) Thanks.

Is this the bottom hinge, May the Genius?

Hi Jaci, sorry for the delayed response. That is the top hinge and I have modified it with a zip-tie because the thin wire let go. The plastic disc is still working great with the zip-tie replacement.

Thanks for all your help. Much appreciated.

Gosh. I started this thread (was it really that long ago?). Totally forgot this was a problem so when we moved and remodeled our new kitchen, I bought the same refrigerator! Luckily, they apparently fixed the design flaw because the new one works great without any of these fixes!

Thanks for the years of posts, you all saved my kitchen and more.

For 2024 Whirlpool buyers:

For the WRS325DH series, I used a regular old medium size binder clip (1.25" diameter) size and attached it to the top hinge (right side in my case). You should put it on when the door is closed.

It's sits very flush and there's no stress on the door with medium size, at least. I took off the little wire spring handles of the binder clip by pinching and sliding them out. I plan on getting a metal sturdy one and probably sticking a cabinet bumper on it.

For Whirlpool refrigerator models, and likely more:

WRS325SDHW

WRS325SDHZ

WRS325SDHV

WRS325SDHB