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coreman73

Year 2 - Soil Test Results

10 years ago

Morpheus, when you have a
chance please take a look and let me know what I need to do for this year's
adjustments/schedule. As you'll notice, I took my sample at
6" this year versus 5" last year. It looks like there's still an awful lot of work to be done. On the other hand, my lawn greened up faster this year than anyone's yard on the entire street. As of today, it is still greener so something in the soil (maybe just shallow) must have changed for the better. Thanks in advance. Your free service is truly appreciated.

For reference, the link to
last year's schedule you provided me is here:

http://forums2.gardenweb.com/discussions/3041980/logan-labs-test-results-could-use-some-assistance-reading-results

Here are the 2015 and
2016 lab reports.

Soil tests · More Info

Soil tests · More Info

Comments (7)

  • 10 years ago

    To a large extent, I'm literally going to copy and paste last year's test--this is not that much different. Things that have changed are, of course, discussed ad nauseum below.

    EC 34.5: This would normally be indicative of a very dense soil...except that I can see it's over-inflated by your excessive calcium. I'm actually using an EC of 15 below for adjustments, or the equivalent of a silt soil.

    pH 7.3: 0.3 difference downward from last year is related to the pocket of high calcium soil you hit when you tested (Ca has less influence on pH than Mg or Na). Really, this is not different from 2015.

    OM 3.44: This came up about 0.8%, which is a great one year change. Keep going!

    Sulfur 12: Normal, and no appreciable change.

    Phosphorus 52: This stayed low, so I repeated 2015's notes. Pretty low for your soil, where my target is 300. I've recommended starter fertilizer below, which means buy the cheapest fertilizer with a high second number (like 18-24-6 or 20-27-5 or whatever). This adjustment will probably take several years (added in 2016: Yeah, it's gonna definitely take a couple years).

    Calcium 90.0%: High, as reflected in the numbers. We ignore this as there's not much I can do about it, although the starter will throw away a little calcium. You have so much that I doubt this will matter. Fortunately, it's not causing problems with your lawn.

    Magnesium 4.8%: Still rather low, some of which is your soil being low on Mg, and some is the calcium dominating the soil profile. Let's raise this a bit. You'll need Epsom salt from your local drug store, usually in the First Aid or bath section. Although the shortage looks rather bad on the soil profile, this is an aspect of your over-inflated EC. It's not that bad.

    Potassium 0.9%: Again, rather low, for the same reasons and with the same considerations as magnesium. Most local garden or landscape stores will order potassium sulfate for you, or you can get it online. Recommendations below.

    Minor Elements: Copper came up a bit, which is a result of adding organic matter (or sampling from areas with higher OM, that sometimes happens). Boron is close enough to pass, so iron is the only note remaining.

    Iron 58: Rather low, particularly for your pH. This will tend to produce a paler color on the lawn. Whenever you like, apply Milorganite at bag rate to slowly--very slowly--raise this. It did come up 8 PPM this year, so that's great.

    Recommendations (these are actually identical to last year, which is unusual, but we're fighting with a calcium heavy soil. Changes are slow).

    Early May: Feed at bag rate with starter fertilizer.

    May 15: Apply 2 pounds of Epsom salt per thousand square feet.

    June 1: Feed at bag rate with starter fertilizer.

    June 15: Apply 3 pounds of potassium sulfate per thousand square feet.

    July/August: Feed normally.

    September 1: Feed at bag rate with starter fertilizer.

    September 15: Apply 2 pounds of Epsom salt per thousand square feet.

    October 1: Feed at bag rate with starter fertilizer.

    October 15: Apply 2 pounds of potassium sulfate per thousand square feet.

  • 10 years ago

    How much difference do you think taking the test at 6" this year versus 5" last year plays in what the soil profile looks like?

  • 10 years ago

    It should be very little difference. I adjust the numbers when I make the recommendations--as noted, the recs simply didn't alter from last year.

    For lawns, the standard depth is 4" (although grass has structural and water-seeking roots below this, the feeder roots really don't go much under four inches). Next year, I'd just go with that. Gardens can be sampled deeper, depending on what you're growing. Usually I just use four there as well, even though some plants may go a few feet deep.

  • 10 years ago

    Morpheus, quick question. Since both my phosphorous and potassium levels are still really low, in the place of the starter fertilizer and potash, is there a reason why I can't just use a 1-1-1 NPK fertilizer (i.e. 13-13-13)? If I can, how many lbs per 1K of lawn would I go with for each application (for example using the 13-13-13)? Also, would I do this monthly?

  • 10 years ago

    While I'm not a hundred percent thrilled with most balanced fertilizers (where the K source is potassium chloride), I don't see a problem with it.

    Everywhere where I recommended starter fertilizer, use 13-13-13 at bag rate (which should be around 7.7 pounds per thousand square feet) instead. Cut the potassium sulfate.

    Don't do this monthly! Lawns don't particularly want to feed during summer.

    coreman73 thanked User
  • 10 years ago

    Thanks Morpheus. I'll make that change then. It's been especially tough this year locating SOP. I didn't realize the K in those fertilizers was potassium chloride. What do you expect would be the effect of that on the soil profile?