Some varieties do tend to have relatively long leaves it seems and timing of N nutrient applications can affect that resulting in greater lateral growth than vertical growth. And you are correct that a tomato plant leaf is a compound branch made up of several leaflets although most don't think of them that way and instead call each leaflet a leaf.

As for pruning them back, I often will cut the leaf back about 1/2 way and definitely will if it is touching the ground. I don't remove the entire leaf, only about 1/3 to 1/2 of it and leave the remaining leaflets and stem attached as I need some shading over the fruit to prevent sun scald, a big problem for me.

As with all pruning it is optional and not required and really applicable only to indeterminate varieties. For me, since I use CRW cages, it is more of a light house-keeping thing so there is easier access to the fruit and so I can insure weaving of the leaf branches through the cage wires for good support - they can twist, bind, and break otherwise.

Dave

janice8bcharlestonnc, yes some of the leaves are as long as 3 feet on a few plants. Again, this is understanding leaf as a compound leaf branch as digdirt2 describes above.

digdirt2, thanks for your input, the seems like a reasonable pruning strategy. Yes, it appears my soil was richer in nitrogen than I had anticipated, and the first month of my tomato seedlings taking up residence in the raise bed has seen pretty explosive foliage growth. Such is gardening in Houston!

Thanks again!

please post an image or two

Distinction noted. Perhaps my next question is already answered elsewhere, and can be found with some searching. In removing compound leafs, is it possible some potential production is lost? If yes, I assume this is accepted in pursuit of other higher priority goals.

The one point I'll make is that there is no rush for a proactive action to either remove or cut back leaves. There are 3 periods at which I prune leaves:

1. During transplant

2. After 3-4 fruit clusters have formed- lower leaves are not as important at that point in plant growth, make harvest more difficult and are usually showing signs of Early Blight.

3.When foliar diseases are present.

Although I take a stern approach on removing suckers, the leaves are the plant's sugar factory and are most always best if left on the plant to fulfill their intended role.

"In removing compound leafs, is it possible some potential production is lost?"

Only on determinate varieties. Not on indeterminate.

Dave

Just one thing to offer aside from the previous comments... Are you using mulch? If so, what kind?

A breathable, quick-to-dry mulch will give you more 'leeway' with leaves touching the 'ground'. Early in the season, I don't mind leaves touching the hay/straw mulch I use, but without the mulch I would be quicker to trim them back a little. As the season progresses, and the weather here gets more humid, creating the ideal conditions for disease, trimming back leaves is good prevention. I don't cut them off entirely until they do get spotty (which they will eventually here,) or if the weather conditions, and the bushiness of the plant/bed restricting airflow reaches that point where leaf pruning becomes a reasonable trade-off.

Tomato leaves are compound leaves (as mentioned), like walnut tree leaves. It is often called "leaf branch" because they look like a branch in size.

My practice is to reduce the amount of leaf branches as season progresses . But early in the season I let most of them to be, since they are healthy and needed for growth. Some times I just prune a portion that is near or touching the ground.

I think gardeners have different ways of doing things .

Sey