Thanks Vlad... you can never have too much knowledge.

I think the exception would be when you buy young bare root trees.

It is recommended to prune back branches. In some cases, severely.

Tim,

You've seen citrus trees sold bare root?!

Tim, I do not think trees bought bare root would be an exception for the same reasons given in the article. John, Four Winds sells bare root trees.

Usually the reason you cut back the branches of bare root deciduous fruit trees (not citrus) such as apples, peaches and the like, is because the first year is when you need to start shaping the structure of the tree.

You prune them shorter for ease of fruit harvest and to encourage more branches to bud out lower, hopefully in a better angle and placement than the way they were in the production field. The first 5 years or so is important for this shaping and the first year is very important. It really has nothing to do with the roots.

Citrus being evergreen trees that tend towards bushiness, don't need this kind of heavy shaping when young. You can start to shape them as they get older if you want to, but it's more for aesthetics at that point. Except perhaps if you accidentally planted a standard sized tree and wanted a shorter tree. Then you'd prune the top every few years to keep it shorter.

Keep in mind, unlike many deciduous fruit trees, citrus hold their fruit on the new tips of the branches, so if you prune too much you limit your harvest.

I find when I transplanted my citrus trees that I did not have to top prune to balance for root loss. Going from full sun to full shade took care of any root loss until the roots could grow to fill in. Any pruning done was to get ride of unwanted limbs.

And follow the standard rules.

if your plant is in a medium that is different from what it's to going into remove it all and only use the stuff in the new pot, or ground. No matter how much better the soil on the roots is the tree would rather have the crappy soil so all of the roots are in the same stuff. Google bath tub effect for more information. You can use the soil that was in the roots to top dress.

Do not amend the dug up soil. Unless your willing to dig very deep and amend every single inch of soil that the tree will eventually use. All the way to the max drip line. Even then you will have to be aware of the rain and watering so you don't get the bath tub effect. Well worth it if you live where it's dry and have poor quality soil.

If your interested in this please post a new thread here for advice first so we can help you not make mistakes. I really want to help people do this as I'm confident if done right will be a significant boost to the tree. More than any fertilizer or watering program. Much more.

It's an extreme amount of work you want to get right the first time.

Leave the soil as is no matter how crappy if you don't want to amend it ALL as deep and wide as your plant wants and top dress once it's planted. Much easier and the worms will eventually mix it for you.

Always have the roots point out into the new soil.

Cut off all circling roots.

Water well when establishing but don't go crazy.

Create a ring around the tree made of dirt to make sure the water goes down and not out those first few weeks. The ring will disappear on its own.

If it's hot and sunny, shade the tree until it's established.

Try not to leave fruit on it while transplanting. It's just not worth stressing the tree while it established itself in its new home if it's going into the ground. If it's potted the tree will not be as stressed and can support fruit if big enough.

if I think of anything else I'll add it to the list.

I think this article is a bit simplistic and vague. I'd like to see data and examples.

Distinctions ought to be made about precisely what type of plants the author is talking about (deciduous trees vs. evergreen trees, for example).

And what time of year we are talking about (dormant winter, vs. new growth in spring or hardened growth in late summer?).

Also, what is the ambient humidity upon transplanting and the nature of the sun? Desert conditions? Humid Southeast? Makes a huge difference in the success of transplant.

Also, just how many of the roots have been lost in the transplantation? Makes a huge difference. Few to none? 25% 50%.

One should note that when taking cuttings of citrus and many other broadleafed evergreens, for instance, it is often recommended that the leaves be reduced and often trimmed in half to prevent further dessication of the cutting, but enough to provide at least some photosynthesis. Even the green of the cutting branch can provide some photosynthetic contribution. But it ultimately becomes a race as to which will happen first -- root growth & survival vs. dessication from water loss & subsequent death of the cutting. Surely, there must be a continuum between the treatment of a healthy-rooted shrub transplant and a rootless cutting.

I would say, if you transplant something that's already leafed out, and expect that you have done a fair amount of root damage and have done this in a dry environment, AT LEAST give the poor plant some shade so that its transpiration is reduced.

My 2 cents.