When new branches emerge from spring buds, they typically push a
short internode with a pair of leaves. The second internode is usually
very long, with 6" or more being very common before a second pair of
leaves is set. This works for in situ trees, but spoils the appearance
of trees we want to keep compact in containers. To correct this habit,
we pinch out the central leader as soon as the first set of leaves is
formed - the earlier the better.

About 1/2 of this maple, from seed, is ready to pinch. IOW, half
of the emerging leaf sets at this point in time need pinching. You can't
tell from a 2D photo, but this plant is perfectly symmetrical, there
is not a single trifurcation on the tree, and one opposite bud has been removed from every pair on the tree except at the terminus of branches. Note too, how many branches were removed to get a nice even spiral of branches, each at approximately 90º to the branch above and below. With judicious pinching, the tree will become much more compact and attractive than if allowed its natural growth habit.

Below, see central leaders that needs pinching out

As noted, the next internode would normally be very long - TOO long
for potted plants, but pinching the leader forces new buds from the leaf
axils you left. From each of the new buds you'll get a short internode
and a pair of leaves followed by another very long internode, so to
prevent that happening, you pinch EACH of the central leaders on the 2
pairs of leaves. So, you start out with a pair of leaves, you pinch and
get 2 pairs of leaves. Pinch and get 4 pairs of leaves, then 8 pairs,
then 16, 32, 64, ALL in the same season. Too, because the amount of
photosynthate is divided among soooo many more leaves than normal, the
leaves grow smaller and more in proportion to the size of the tree.

If you forget or didn't know about pinching, you can go back to the
original (first) set of leaves and pinch the central leader at any time,
but that represents a setback and the first pair of leaves will be very
large. It's best to do it ASAP, even if you have to tease the first set
of leaves apart to get at the central leader.

I also employ partial or total defoliation, regularly. I often
defoliate the strong parts (branches) of the tree & allow the leaves
to remain on the weaker branches. This represents an intentional energy
drain and tends to cause shortening of internodes and smaller leaves -
IOW, a more compact and eye appealing tree.

Appropriate disbudding is critical to maintaining an attractive tree as well. I hope that helps you better manage growth.

Al