I have 4 varieties planted, I made the mistake of not marking them. I have a bed that is literally 2 feet away from it identical to it. The only difference is I do have a couple seedlings in the garden of various companion plants. They don't look like they are dying, they just don't look as good as the rest of my plants, it's just that one bed.

I have dill, basil, lettuce, spinach, marigolds and a pepper seedling in the bed. No bugs, no discolored leaves really. Just some twisting of leaves, wilting, and just struggling a lil bit.

I think the rocks might get hot, but checking soil temp it's like 74° six inches down and 85° one inch down. All my other plants in that bed seem fine. Just the tomato plants.

Well without know the specific varieties you can't compare them - different varieties have different appearances and some tend more to the wispy/slightly droop look sometimes.

It is often difficult to judge from photos as the lighting and exposure can give mis-leading coloration. For example is that sitting on concrete in the 3rd pic down in your first post? Or soi? If soil both it and that is your beds seems awfully gray. So determining if the color of the plants is good or not is difficult but they look ok to me in the photos.

Obviously the rocks are going to heat up the area and might contribute. And the varying depth of the beds and buckets can also transmit varying degrees of heat. But if you can rule out pests and there are no signs of any diseases (don't see any) then either the plants are fine, just different, or there is something wrong in the soil of that one bed.

If watering regimen is the same - keep in mind that over-watering can also cause plants to droop and wilt - and the drainage is the same in all the beds then all I can suggest is to continue to monitor them and hope they adapt.

Dave

PS: there has been no herbicide use anywhere around right? Where drift could get to just that one bed?

Are there any Black Walnut trees in the vicinity?

Linda

No black walnut trees. No herbicides. The picture just makes the soil look a shade of grey, it the same soil in the other bed. I'm new at gardening. I started all the plants from seed inside. The varieties include Best boy, 4th of July, Bush Steak, and Big Mama hybrid. I'm located in the Panhandle of Florida. The soil is a mix of bag soil, homemade compost, and cow manure. The only fertilizer I used is Jobes organic tomato and vegetable. I've used DE on and also Captain Jack's Deadbug Brew once about 2 weeks ago.

All my beds are just sitting on regular soil, all my beds are raised about 12 inches and have a newspaper barrier with my own mix of soil filling them.

" I've used DE on and also Captain Jack's Deadbug Brew once about 2 weeks ago."

OK what kind of pests were you seeing that you used it for? Have you checked the underside of the leves carefully for aphids, for thrips, any sign of whiteflies?

Dave

It was for some flea beetles, little caterpillar, and centipede/miliped. I didn't have an infestation, just a couple and since the application, I haven't seen any insects. I just bought a soil testing kit for pH and nutrients, haven't finished the testing, so I'll post results later.

Kevin, Have you been having very warm sunny days ?

Three days ago mind kept wilting at mid day too but they perked up later in the day. They should get used to sun and warm weather.

Sey

It has been heating up during the day and they definitely look a lil better at night when it's cooler out. I'm going to change my watering routine and see if that helps any. Thanks for all the replies. Hopefully I'll figure it out.

It'd due to the heat, I should know since it's hot in Florida (you may roll your eyes here).

http://www.ambius.com/blog/why-do-plants-wilt/

Consider mulching, my containers have at least 1inch thick of wood shaving mulch. If you have a timed drip irrigation system, set it for hottest time of day. I believe soil structure (ie. drainage), organic matter, and root structures play a big part.

I think it's inevitable with the 5gallon buckets, they will heat up easily.

For being a new gardener, and starting these plants yourself indoors...I think you are doing a fantastic job.

I think your plants look pretty good. I think you got started late for your zone. Some mulch to help keep the ground cool will help, and will also help with keeping the rain from splashing soil upon the leaves. Since you are late, you may mot get a full fruit set and harvest, but you should get some, and you can learn a lot.

Kevin - just in case you didn't know there is a Florida Gardening forum here since it is so unique - different planting times, etc. from most of the rest of us. Be sure to check it out to talk with locals and those experienced with your unique environment.

Dave

http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/flgard

janice8bcharlestonsc - I started all my tomato seeds inside at the beginning of February and moved them outside the second week of March. This is what they looked like on March 19

I'm just now started to get flowers on my tomato plants, do you think I'll still get a good harvest? When is the best time to start seeds for my zone? I'm a beginner at gardening so everyday I'm learning something.

According to the zone maps, you are in 9b or 10a, which means you need to start earlier than me. I planted out middle March. This is my fourth year growing tomatoes, I started in 2009 (I skipped some years). The first year, as a newbie in my zone, I started in May (which means I started two months late), but I still got some tomatoes. I keep notes- I probably got sixty pounds off 12 plants. The next year I set out plants in March and got 150 pounds. The next year I discovered Big Beef and got 225 pounds. I am learning as I go. The key is not to be discouraged. You will get some tomatoes. Your future tomatoe garden may look quite a bit different than what you have now. I believe quite a few Florida tomato growers use containers. I am trying raised beds for the first time. My house is on a former tomato farm. In the past I just amended the native soil. You and I have some of the same challenges. I study what the floridians do when I get stumped because your conditions are more challenging in some ways. I believe your pollination-possible windows are longer, if you start at an optimum time. Looking immediately ahead, your challenge is probably getting fruit set. Your plants do look like they are struggling a bit, it may take awhile to figure out what is going on. But they will still produce. Not all of my plants display the same vigor either. Lots to learn, experience is the best teacher, plus you have this amazing community here to help. Enough rambling for me!

I reread your notes. This part jumps out: "just now started to get flowers on my tomato plants."

You and I planted out on virtually same day. I have 65 fruit set, with fruiting starting on 12 April. My plants seem more advanced.

here are the two major differences:. I did not start my own seeds. Cudos to you for starting your own, but Bonnie may have an advantage over a novice. To get some insight into this, next time include one big box store seedling in the mix to see if your seedlings are all they can be.

Your fences may be blocking light. You need 6 solid hours of direct sun light. In my garden, the fence location suppresses light for two plants in the raised beds. Two of six big beefs are affected. The two getting shorted on light are one third the size of the other big beefs and have blooms but no fruit. I have a lesson learned for next year:. Instead of pulling up the beautiful lettuce(that had been growing since November and was gorgeous) to set out a tomatoe seedling in those two low light spots, I will let the lettuce grow. The point is,are you sure your plants in that location are getting a full six hours sunlight per day(sorry if this has been covered already)?

I actually do have 2 bonnie plants (celebrity and purple cherokee) the celebrity has a tomato on it and some more that are about to start. I'm pretty sure they are getting 6 hours of direct sun light. I've been taking notes and learning a lot by reading these forums. I'll definitely be more prepared for next season. I did do a soil test (a kit I bought from lowes) It tested low for all the nutrients.

Here's the results

Is there anything I can do to maybe give them a boost. I did buy some of the tomato blossom set spray to see if I get any results.

Kevin please don't make any changes based on one of those home test kits. The are notorious for being inaccurate at best and down right totally wrong at worst. Ignore it. For about the same price you can get a professional soil test done through your county extension office.

Can't swear to it but I suspect your primary issues are due to a late plant out for your area. Which is why I suggested the Florida forum. From what I have read over there you have 2 tomato growing seasons, even in the panhandle, and February would have been planting out time for the first one. But talk to the Florida people because I may be off track on that.

Dave

One thing I learned by studying other gardens in my zone is that late afternoon shade provides much appreciated heat relief for the plants. So I now have a small tree strategically placed to provide 4:30 shade. If the current tree gets too tall to throw shade where I need it, I'll start a new tree behind it and chop the old one down. My husband will think I am crazy , that's ok.

I have not solved all of the challenges. I know I live in a two tomato season zone. Second plant out is July or August. For Florida growers, your second plant out will be later. You have to wait longer for the heat/humidity to drop so the conditions become favorable for pollination. It is perplexing to see a perfectly healthy plant fail to produce fruit. Well prepared gardens and healthy plants cannot overcome sticky pollen.

I am still trying to figure out how to outsmart the stink bugs without killing all the beneficial insects. I am researching still, looks like a soap solution (gotta be the right kind) might work. The conditions here in August/sept are unfit for gardeners. I am not sure I want to be outside at that time. Last time I was successful at it I had to put in a sprinkler for me!

Lettuce and spinach are winter crops. If I want to grow them in late spring or summer, I grow them in a sunny window or under a grow light in an air conditioned room in the house. I don't think the dill likes heat either, and basil is probably not happy.

I went ahead and took suggestions. I mulched all my plants, removed some various plants not suited where they were. Moved my containers away from the rocks. Gonna wait and see what happens. Looking at my plants, they aren't that bad and I have noticed flowers beginning to open, so hopefully fruit will follow. Thanks

The plants that I have that are extremely vigorous are in a raised bed. Here is what I put in the bed:. Last September I filled with a 50/50 mixture of compost from the local government composting facility and purchased soil. Right before planting, I added about 2 bags of composted cow manure across three beds. The plant growth is explosive. The Big Beefs are growing more stems and leaves than setting fruit. They are setting fruit, but the Cherokee purples put them to shame. The CPs plants are half as bushy, but I have never seen CPs flower like this. If the BBs pick up flowering (I am seeing early signs flowering is starting to increase, I will be pleased with the outcome.)