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Engine rough then primer bulb won't fill

10 years ago

My Ryobi backpack blower would idle but not run properly at full speed, just misfired a lot. So, I took it apart, removed the carb etc. Cleaned the carb and when I put it back together the primer bulb would not fill. I did not remove the fuel lines so they're not backwards, the only thing I did remove from the carb was the throttle cable. Pretty sure it only goes on one way. One thing I did notice was there was a small plastic piece that was loose in the fuel tank, looks like it may be a fuel filter of some kind. Small plastic cylinder with a hose size fitting on one end. Anyway, it's loose and there seems to be no way to put it back on with it being a sealed unit....maybe hook the fuel lines out through the fill hole and put it back on that way.....question is, which fuel line does it go on ?

Anyway, the fuel primer doesn't fill and prior to that issue, when it did fill the engine didn't run properly. Should I just replace the carb and the fuel tank (comes with the lines) and be done with it ?

Comments (7)

  • 10 years ago

    Look at the link below even though it's a trimmer. From a quick look I did not notice if all
    lines were cut to taper to start and stretched into openings to seal the
    connection. Plus, stretch over needed
    connection to seal connections.

    There should be a number of youtube options showing using the
    search line “showing that I used”.

    Good luck!

    Ryobi backpack blower fuel
    system youtube

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xlN94PbF5gw

  • 10 years ago

    From looking at that and another video the filter goes on the line to the carburetor, not the line to the primer bulb. So....I guess I'm replacing both lines to be on the safe side, at least now I know which line to put the filter on.

    That said.....these lines seem to be firmly attached to the fuel tank, they are pushed through holes in the tank and are a very tight fit.....how are they held in so tightly, bonded somehow ? I'm concerned that by replacing the lines I'll never get it to seal again

  • 10 years ago

    Get a good quality line from
    Small Engine Repair Shops. It will
    stretch and seal like you will not believe. Take your old line or equipment to
    get the proper size. Do not worry about
    breaking the line when stretching. Please
    post some close pics of present fits and debris of concerns.

    If the old line is
    deteriorated, look for and remove all or as much as possible. If your equipment fails to run properly, it
    could be some inside the Carb that will need removing. Hopefully the filter caught any etc before it
    reached the carb.

    What is the age of the
    equipment? Have you “stored with and
    used treated fuel”???

  • 10 years ago

    Loger helped me out a couple years ago. I think you have inverted the lines to the primer bulb. For some reason, loger may have missed this. Here is a link that shows hook up for primer bulb that loger showed me. FYI, the bulb pulls fuel thru the carb. I hope the link indicates which carb line goes to tank too, I didn't check it all out.

  • 10 years ago

    A little more background.

    The blower didn't run properly last year but I think I figured out why, I'll try to post pictures later but when I unscrew the cover that houses the carb there appeared to be no air filter at all. The cover had a rubber seal around it but nothing else. Under the cover was another plastic piece that had a tube built into it which I figured must at some point had a filter in it and maybe it fell out. Since it wasn't running properly and it was end of season I didn't bother with it.

    Fast forward to last week. During the winter I found a plastic cap about large enough to wear on a finger and sealed at one end, it was on my garage floor in a corner. For some reason I kept it......anyway, when I tried to get the blower working it occurred to me that this cap went in the tube I mentioned before, it fits perfectly and seals the tube.

    I started the blower and it ran "ok" but wouldn't rev properly, sounded like a lot of misfires. The primer bulb worked at this time.

    Figuring there was junk in the carb I took it apart but didn't remove the fuel lines. Liberal spraying of carb cleaner etc. At this time I noticed the plastic piece rattling around in the fuel tank. When I put it all back together the primer bulb wouldn't prime so now it won't start unless I spray carb cleaner into it with the carb cover removed. With me putting the cap I found into that tube have I blocked all the air ? I can't imagine there is no air filter at all but it seems odd that this would be restricted so much. There appears to be nowhere for the air to enter the carb unless the tube is unblocked.

    The spark plug looks ok, yellowish brown, not rich or lean from what I can tell.

    At this point I assume the piece that's loose in the tank isn't critical, just a fuel filter, and that I may have somehow damaged one of the lines when I was removing the carb etc. The electric start does wrap around them so maybe I pinched something, I was careful but you never know.

    I'll have another go at it later and update this post with pics if I take them.

  • 10 years ago

    So my suspicion was correct, the line from the primer bulb was pinched between the starter and the chassis. However, now it's free I have a different issue.

    The engine has a lever on it which has two distinct settings, Start and Run.

    The instruction sticker says to set it to "start", prime it 7 times, then start it. Once warm switch it to "run".

    I tried this and each time I switched it to "run" the engine stalled. The only way it would stay running was if I moved the lever to about half way between start and run, at which point the engine would rev to full throttle, even with the throttle lever set to idle. If I moved the throttle lever off idle the engine would stall......I believe moving the throttle lever has the same effect as moving the lever on the engine to "run" in that the plate on the carb kind of clicks into a different position if you move either the lever on the engine or the throttle lever.

    My blower is similar to the one in this link.


    http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0033HPV3S?tag=tulbg-20


    The throttle lever on the left control "arm" is set back toward the blower which I believe is "idle" - I seem to remember that pushing it forwards away from the blower would raise the revs.

  • 10 years ago

    “Figuring there was junk in the carb I took it apart but
    didn't remove the fuel lines. Liberal spraying of carb cleaner etc. At this
    time I noticed the plastic piece rattling around in the fuel tank. When I put
    it all back together the primer bulb wouldn't prime so now it won't start
    unless I spray carb cleaner into it with the carb cover removed. With
    me putting the cap I found into that tube have I blocked all the air? I can't
    imagine there is no air filter at all but it seems odd that this would be restricted
    so much.
    There appears to be nowhere for the air to enter the carb
    unless the tube is unblocked.”

    Related to your above info, I am looking for fuel restriction
    or exhaust restriction that could cause the engine not to reach full RPM.

    1. Was the carb soaked 8 hrs in carb cleaner, all passage
    rodded with fine wire, all passages pressure cleaned?

    2. Was Carb Adjustment needles adjusted to specs or out at least
    one turn?

    3. Was a fuel screen in the carb and verified clean?

    4. If the Primer bulb is not priming, I feel you have
    restriction or lines crossed.

    5. Was treated fuel used and stored always. Was rubber on
    metering needle clearing port?

    6. Did you ck the muffler spark arrestor to know it’s clean
    with no back pressure.

    7. Please show a pic of the cap you found and where you
    placed it. You need air!!!

    When All Fails! I usually
    look for another set of eyes and experience.
    My past concentration, 70’s Technology and Time is challenging me. Do you know a Friendly Yardman?

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