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janice8bcharlestonsc

Anthers, stigmas, pollen and all that

I would like to see some improvements in fruiting. First, some general observations and a ton of speculation.

1) there is fruiting success. 15 to 20 % of blooms fruit. There are some outliers. Sungold fruit success is higher. Of the 15 varieties planted, six have not fruited. Of these, one is not vigorous, one is potato leaf, and the others may be mid-late seasoners.

2) the plants have sufficient heat, light, and nutrients to hyper grow. I believe (pure speculation), the window of pollination for each bloom is compressed. It seems all growth cycles, stems, buds, blooms, pollen, etc, are compressed and short. I think the plant struggles in managing the growth(and support systems such as internal moisture control). . I tested some blooms with an electric toothbrush and some dark paper. Some are open, have free flowing pollen, and some appear pollenless and are a damp sweaty mess.

3) the conditions for maximum growth are ideal (this may also represent an area I need to improve. As a Gardner, if I could limit vegetative growth, conditions might improve. I can see where a plant that is focused on setting fruit rather than growing stems might be more successful on setting fruit. )The conditions for pollination for each bloom (given the day time/night time temp and humidity swings) are a big crap shoot.

4 ) most of the plants are doing what you would expect: growing more stems to grow more new blooms to increase fruiting success.

5) keeping the lateral stems (aka suckers) is the right thing to do. Until I figure out how to improve pollination, this is a fair trade off.

Does my rambling make a little bit of sense, or is this more evidence that a 12 step program is in order?

Comments (11)

  • 10 years ago

    When I was out vibrating blooms, a couple of bees were in my way. ;)

    Nature's pollinators were out in force. The wind was blowing nicely. For the blooms that could emit dry free flowing pollen, nature seemed to have things under control. I realize some of the blooms may not have been ready to open for business, and needed some more maturation time. The rest kind of fell into two categories: flower petals down, frazzled, but not collapsed. Last category was collapsed, some very damp. I suspect many of these are failed. Hard to tell.


  • 10 years ago

    "A 12 step program"? LOL :-)

    Two questions - what is the age of these plants. It is still spring for another 6 weeks, still very early in the season so such focus may be premature and it could be perfectly normal for the plants to still be focused on growth, not blooming/fruiting. Second, what is your average humidity right now? Your location is well noted for its high humidity, right? That could be the whole problem, if there is one.

    Dave

    janice8bcharlestonsc thanked digdirt2
  • 10 years ago

    Ncrealestate:. For each Big Beef truss, which are 5 to 12 or so blooms (really varies), there are only, on average, 2 fruits. There are exceptions, mostly occurring earlier when it was cooler. It is a sad situation.

  • 10 years ago

    I put the big box store transplants in the bed/ground on 13 March. Fruiting started roughly 13 April. I agree it is still early. I probably have six weeks of pollination window left. Last night was awful, 72 degrees at 10:30 at night with near 90% humidity. Let's assume the problem is humidity and the current trend persists, I believe greater fruit set (there are plenty of blooms, most just fail, only two blooms per truss succeed on average) in my garden will only increase as a result of more vegetative growth. Each truss added through growth has potential to net two more tomatoes.

    I think I need to fertilize and not limit fertilizing according to the idea of suppressing vegetative growth in favor of fruit setting. My plants need more vegetative growth in order to succeed at fruit set. They look hungry.

    Here are the counts on the big beefs:

    norm (average size): 8

    tiny (small size): 4

    Hercules (large): 18

    Goliath(larger): 10

    Godzilla(Kudzu class, knows no bounds, now has two cages): 13

    Tomorrow, I will get "old" bloom counts (I won't mind some more quality time in my patch). Some are gone, but I can kind of tell where they were. It will be interesting to compare blooms per truss and tomatoes that resulted. I will also note the following:. Low(implying early growth during cooler temps /lower humidity), mid (implying later growth), top (implying growth during most recent warm/humid time).

  • 10 years ago

    Right now (10 PM) it is 73 and 91 % humidity. Mid-week forecast is looking good:. Hi/low for Wednesday is 81/59 64% humidity . Thursday is 72/53 46% humidity. Should I hold off on fertilizing?

  • 10 years ago

    "Right now (10 PM) it is 73 and 91 % humidity"

    Bummer! Especially that humidity. Makes everything gummy. Not much you can do about it though except cross fingers and then make like a bumble bee whenever the humidity falls. I'd be real tempted to wait on the fertilizing until after Thursday anyway. JMO

    Dave

  • 10 years ago

    Ok thanks.

  • 10 years ago

    Fruit set per Big Beef truss (not 100% reported, but representative)

    Top of plant ------------------- to -------------> Bottom of plant

    Norm: 1/5 2/7 2/6 2/5 2/5

    Tiny:. 0/5 0/5 2/6 2/4

    Hercules:. 0/6 1/6 2/6 0/6 2/5 2/5 1/6 3/6

    Goliath:. 1/5 1/8 2/7. 2/6. 1/6. 3/6. 2/3. 4/7

  • 10 years ago

    Janice, are you using electric (battery) tooth brush to help pollination ?

    Sey

  • 10 years ago

    When I am home during the day, which is about 30% of the time, I try to help. I tried out the electric toothbrush and could see free flowing pollen from some of the blooms. Some where too damp to flow. I am a crw cage shaker also.

    Today the temps dropped dramatically. I suspect in retrospect when i compare fruiting with temps/humidity, there will be clear patterns.