Those are leaf-hopper damage, the pic. match best with leaf-hopper-leaf damage. Some info. from below link:

http://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/garden-pests/leafhopper-control/

" Many species of leafhoppers exist ... Both adults and nymphs feed by puncturing the undersides of leaves and sucking out plant juices. Their toxic saliva causes spotting (white specks), yellowing, leaf curling, stunting and distortion of plants. They are also responsible for transmitting the organisms causing virus diseases in plants.

In late spring females deposit 1-6 eggs daily within the stems and larger veins of the leaves. Hatching occurs in 6-9 days, and the young nymphs molt 5 times before they become fully grown adults. White cast skins shed by the molting nymphs can often be found attached to the underside of damaged leaves. The period from egg to adult is about three weeks

Leafhopper Control

• Remove garden trash and other debris shortly after harvest to reduce over-wintering sites.
• Floating row covers can be used as a physical barrier to keep leafhoppers from damaging plants.
• Commercially available beneficial insects, such as ladybugs, lacewing, and minute pirate bugs, are all voracious predators of both the egg and young larval stage.
• Apply diatomaceous earth to plants and/or spot treat with insecticidal soap to keep pest populations under control. Thorough coverage of both upper and lower infested leaves is necessary for effective control.
• If pest levels become intolerable, spot treat with organic insecticides as a last resort.

Tip: To improve the effectiveness of insecticidal soap, mix 1 tablespoon of isopropyl alcohol to 1 quart of the spray. It helps the soap penetrate the insects’ outer shell.

http://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/garden-pests/leafhopper-control/

Thank you Strawchicago! That was my first thought!