Thanks for the tips, Al. I really appreciate it. How about one tsp of Foliage Pro per week dissolved in a gallon of water, letting it flush through?

Pls. check Foliage Pro's directions, that dose sounds too strong to me. I use it once in while, most recently at 1/8 tsp per 1/2 gallon (= 1/4 tsp per gallon).

If you can get a large clear plastic bag also put it around the plant, after cutting many of the leaves back. It basically has to grow new roots, and it is at risk of losing too much water through the leaves....more than the roots can compensate for at this time......which is why cutting many of the larger and/or damaged leaves would help. The plastic bag, with the top above the foliage, but with the top left open, will also raise humidity around the plant and relief some of the stress. If it is in good new soil, well aerated but somewhat lightly moist, new roots should grow quickly.

I had the exact problem with the same plant. It did great in a small pot, even though the above ground part of the plant was large, and when I repotted it to a large pot, it slowly died. Maybe you could try a small pot, I think the roots need a ton of air.

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Onlineplantexchange.com, I believe the 5-1-1 mix will provide adequate air exchange. I'm not sure how a smaller pot would help...

I agree the dose is high for plants indoors, but would be appropriate for plants outdoors IF you're flushing the soil every time you water. My winter maintenance dose fort plants under lights is 1/4 tsp/gallon every time I water, which is about every 6 days now for 90% of my plants. Those in really small pots (bonsai) get watered every 3 days. I'd fertilize before the work, then stop fertilizing after repotting until you see new growth. It's better to establish your program based on the number of waterings. For most growers who flush the soil regularly, every 3rd or 4th watering is a good way to work it because there is a close link between water and nutrient needs.

The reason I suggested cutting it back hard is so you DON'T lose moisture through the leaves the roots can't replace. I VERY often cut a houseplant back to almost nothing when I repot - depending on what it is, of course. You can use the plastic bag tent trick if you like, but cutting it back & not bothering with tenting will give better results because you're ridding the plant of the blemished existing foliage and inviting new, pristine leaves to form. If you know your plants, that can be a regular part of your maintenance plan. Keep in mind that what the plant grows isn't sacred. Removing a lot or even ALL foliage if the timing is right is a useful tool.

Large pots are what the plant wants - not small pots. The question is, will your soil ALLOW you to give the plant a pot as large as the plant prefers?? There is MUCH more potential for growth and vitality in a pot that offers plenty of room for roots to run, but that requires a soil that compliments the choice, one that doesn't support perched water that limits root function and raises holy heck with root health. Small pots are suggested so the grower is protected from his/her own actions. Get the soil right and you can grow a tiny new cutting in a 55 gallon drum filled to the brim.

Al

The Foliage Pro calls for 1/4 tsp/gallon for maintenance and 1 tsp/gallon for production. I guess I don't understand the difference. Is production generally for summer months when the plant is producing?

In my case, I will take the advice of holding off on fertilizing until I see new growth. I did drench the 5-1-1 with FP and rainwater when I repotted it, and it is still moist, but not wet.

When cutting back, if I leave about 2 inches of the stem above the soil line, is that about right?

As to light, I have put peace lilies outside before and even a small exposure of direct sunlight turns leaves yellow. Would bright light not be too much for a plant such as this, in this condition?

Fertilizing when a plant is not actively growing is a waste of fert. It should be okay to cut the leaves down to that height.

Bright indirect light until new leaves form. Did you harden off those peace lilies you mentioned before exposing to direct sun? And what time of day was that sun?

i would guess ( and it is just that), that by "production" they may have been referring to using higher fert dosage to try to force an actively growing plant to reach a bigger size sooner as one might wish to do for commercial plant production.