Air Conditioning Trouble 2016: Repair or Replace?

10 years ago

This question almost always surfaces when you get a large AC repair bill. You realize your AC is getting older and the chances of another breakdown may be around the corner and the thought of pouring more money into a old system that will likely need to be replaced anyway has you pondering your options.

First off a little about me: I am a Texas Licensed HVAC contractor with over 20 years experience serving Katy, Texas area. Additional AC information can be found at my main website Air Conditioning Tips you can also subscribe to my You Tube Channel

This post is to help those of you who happen across this forum to give you an idea and maybe give you some background information to help you make a decision whether you are in my service area or not. While there are some differences depending on where you live / how much you use your AC system most of what I say here will apply to most situations.

Your situation tends to depend on factors related to how long you plan to own the home. The more you spend fixing, repairing and upgrading your HVAC system will mostly benefit the next homeowner. However, the condition of your HVAC system could impact the sale of the home. If you live in an area like mine that depends on AC nearly all year long realize everyone buying homes in an area realize this just as much as you do.

Your HVAC system has more pieces to it than just the outdoor unit. If you only replace the outdoor unit, you are limited in the efficiency of that unit, the unit will most likely be "piece meal", "retro fit" and the least desirable term... "mismatched". When considering piece meal option you are more or less doing it because it is a less cost option. In terms of performance it's rarely more than 5% less efficient of the name plate efficiency of the unit. (applies to 14 SEER efficiency and below only!) You can not replace only the outdoor unit to a SEER greater than 14 without replacing the Furnace and in most cases the Evaporator coil as well.

If your outdoor condenser is only a few years old and uses R22 Freon you could be in for a rude awakening. R22 Freon is going away. January 1, 2020 production for new R22 Freon will cease. All that will be left is what is reclaimed and recycled. Prices for R22 are expected to climb substantially. For this reason alone, if you have a R22 Freon system it is probably in your best interest to consider replacement and converting to R410a Puron. I've been documenting this subject on my website since 2009 here is an easy way to find it. >>> R22 Freon Versus R410a Puron The Facts Remember to convert to R410a requires equipment replacement. There is no drop in for R22 Freon for the residential air conditioning application.

It is never recommended to use "snake oil" repair tactics like leak seal to seal refrigerant leaks. Avoid these like the plague, as these sealants will gum up your system and make it inoperable. There is no remedy like doing it RIGHT the first time.

Refrigerant leaks: Air conditioner's do not use refrigerant. The system is a completely sealed system. Refrigerant leaks are typically not that common so even if your system is a R22 Freon system and merely needs an electrical repair to fix it the option to replace is merely something to consider. Electrical problems typically make up 90-95% of all Air Conditioning problems.

However, this doesn't mean that you couldn't have both problems at the same time: Electrical and low refrigerant. Proper diagnosis is required, guessing doesn't fix anything and just increases the expense to repair. If guessing is going on with your system and you're not the one doing the guessing you should realize whatever they are doing to it probably isn't right either.

Use a pro --- it's the only way to go!

I am a residential AC repair specialist. I have fixed, repaired, replaced, designed, installed countless HVAC systems over the years, saved people 100's of dollars on their monthly electric bill.

If you live in my service area: I'm sure I could do the same for you!

I hope your day is comfortable!

~Ray Austin

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Comments (3)

Elmer J Fudd
10 years ago
In a recent thread, you disagreed with energy_rater_la who had suggested that ducts and air handlers were better placed within a building's conditioned space (in closets and "fur downs" or bulkhead passages). Instead, you suggested the attic was a better location.

energy_rater's suggestion was more reflective of current thinking than yours was.

Building Science Corporation is an engineering/scientific company that has pioneered research and development for changes in construction practices and techniques to make buildings more energy efficient. They have done many projects for and with the US Department of Energy. See the attached article from its website, that suggests in part "Putting ductwork outside is bad enough, but putting ductwork in an attic is even worse. Attics are even hotter than outside during the summer and as cold as the outside in the winter".

In areas where slab foundations are common, attic placement of ducts is also common because it's the cheapest approach. But not the smartest.

Where to put ducts and air handlers
PRO
Austin Air Companie
Original Author
10 years ago
last modified: 10 years ago
Well there's pros and cons to anywhere you're going to put it. The con of putting it in a closet is that when there is a problem with it, there may not be enough room to work on it to repair it.

So you want to pay more every time the air handler needs repair? Like say for example the air handler has to be removed to get at it? (They don't last forever.)

Additionally there are people who do not want to hear the system cycling on and off, because the system wakes them up in the middle of the night.

Then if the system includes a gas furnace there are safety concerns to contend with. The need of combustion air to function properly, the flue almost always goes thru an opening up into the attic touching combustible materials which in my neck of the woods a code violation.

Even in the instance a system is installed in a closet down in my neck of the woods... the ducts are still run in the attic.

Why? Because the architect is responsible for designing the home and in most cases they never give enough room for the HVAC system let alone the duct work.

Realize I don't build the house, I repair and work with what I have to work with... nothing more. I can't let the house defeat me.

Given that, if the ductwork you install is R8 flex and you have the room to separate the ducts there is rarely any problem with such a set up. The heat gain or heat loss thru the R8 duct is less than 2 degrees in most cases and that includes long duct runs.
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PRO
Austin Air Companie
Original Author
10 years ago
My utility bills are displayed since about 2010. I do videos annually on what it costs me to run my AC system. My average is usually under $35 a month to run the AC. During months the light bill hits that amount the total light bill is usually less than $80 total.

Yes, these bills are with having my HVAC system located in the attic in Katy, Texas area. The videos are listed on my website under Air Conditioning Tips (under advanced topics header). I explain what I have and what I do to achieve this in the videos if you're interested to check it out.