Without being able to see them, we're only guessing.

Normally, with bean plants in the ground, leaf curl is a physiological reaction to stress of different kinds and probably most often it is a respond to wet soil. However, for comparison's sake, my bean plants in the ground (I don't grow them in containers, which is a different situation altogether) have had almost 6" of rain in the last week, most of that in one day, and the leaves didn't curl at all. Since your bean plants are in a container, your plants may curl their foliage a little because they are too wet, or too dry. Or because aphids or some other pests are damaging the leaves. Or because they have spider mites. Or, since much of Oklahoma just came out of cloudier, cooler, milder spell of good weather and suddenly we're much warmer (dare I say hotter?) and sunnier, the beans may be curling slightly because they are having trouble making the sudden adjustment from cool/mild/rainy to hotter/sunnier. A lot of my pepper plants had leaves curl up on the first day we had the heat and sun return but they returned to normal the second day, so you may be seeing something similar.

The issue of them not blooming and not producing beans yet likely is a separate issue. First, I just want to say that beans will grow and produce in almost any soil in the ground but they generally are not as productive in really rich soil, and often will give you a lot of foliage but be very slow to produce beans themselves, so I deliberately plant them in soil that is not too rich or too fertile. Growing them in a container in a soil-less mix can be tricky because often the soil-less mixes have more nitrogen than they need and you get all leaves and few beans. It is hard to know whether your beans are having that sort of issue already or if they just aren't mature enough to flower and set beans yet, but most varieties of beans will produce beans within 60 days of sprouting, and some do it much, much earlier. Most bush beans are earlier than most pole beans. The timing of your bean planting also is something we don't know, but if your beans have been growing for 45 to 60 days or longer and aren't even trying to flower, then I think there may be a problem.

I'm likely further south than you and I planted bush beans early. Mine produced for almost 6 weeks and then I yanked them out last week and bagged them up for the trash because they were heavily covered in spider mites, a common problem here in our rural area, and I wanted to get those heavily-spider-mite-laden bean plants out of my garden. I didn't mind yanking them out as 6 weeks of production is a long time for bush beans to be in heavy production and the plants were starting to slow down as they were becoming old and tired, and they had produced huge loads of beans, enabling me to put up a lot of beans in the freezer for future meals. Also, the pole beans I planted in April now are blooming and setting beans so I didn' really need the bush beans any more. So, if your bean plants have been growing since March and they are bush beans and aren't blooming, I think they likely have too much nitrogen. If they are pole beans and have been growing since, let's say, early April, they probably should be blooming, but some pole varieties are much later than others. Of the 4 or 5 pole varieties I planted in April, only 2 have started blooming so far, and the earliest one has produced its first harvest. If you planted later than mid April, your plants might need a couple more weeks yet before they begin blooming. Much depends on what variety they are and what your weather has been like. And, if you only planted them in May, whether they are bush beans or not, they probably wouldn't be blooming yet but hopefully are getting close to blooming.

I wouldn't pull them out now. It is too late to start over with spring beans and too early to plant fall beans. Often, in June through August, and especially in July and August, we have the kind of high temperatures here that cause bean blossoms to fall off the plants without pollination occurring. This is called blossom drop and there's not much of anything you can do about it except hope and pray for a cool spell with more favorable weather. So, your best chance of getting beans to pick and eat this summer is for the plants you already have to bloom and set beans in June before the typically very hot weather arrives for July and August. If you seeded new plants now, by the time the beans could sprout, grow and get large enough to bloom, we likely already would be having the kind of heat that causes blossom drop, unless we are in the midst of a record cool summer.

You have to match your legume to the weather we have. Bush or pole beans, if planted at the appropriate time for your part of the state, normally produce a spring to early summer harvest before the heat shuts them down. Most years the heat will shut them down, but every now and then the weather is extra-cooperative and they will produce all summer long. I believe I had that sort of bean year in 2012, but it is fairly rare. For production in June through August or later, I grow lima beans and mostly southern peas like pink eye purple hulls, zipper peas, cream peas, lady peas, blackeye peas or crowder peas. There's many varieties of southern peas. They love heat and prefer poor soil (rich soil gives you more leaves than peas) and produce like mad in our hot summer weather. We generally are harvesting southern peas here from late June through October when the cold nights finally shut them down. For fall beans, I plant pole beans in July and bush beans in August so they can produce in the cooler weather of September and October. If you plant your bush beans earlier than the recommended time in July, they generally just get pest-infested and suffer blossom drop from the heat and don't produce, so I wait until the recommended time to seed the fall crop. Mid-summer can be very hard on beans in our climate. So, if you decide to replace your beans at some point in the next few weeks if they never kick into production, you might try a southern pea that is better adapted to producing in the heat.

Finally, if the leaf curl is only slight, then I think it is the sudden change in the weather or the excess moisture, but if the plants begin to twist and contort in odd ways, that would be a different issue. Were that sort of odd behavior to occur, then that could be from herbicide drift or from herbicide carryover in the growing medium, and this would be an entirely different issue.

Thanks for all the info Dawn. Pole beans were planted in early April. I'll give a little more time, but I'm not holding out a lot of hope for them. All my other plants are looking good, tomatoes, cukes, mesclun mix, cantaloupe, all seem to be on track. I'll shoot for a fall crop of beans.

You're welcome. I'm sorry for your bean troubles and I wouldn't give up on them yet. Sometimes just when we gardeners have had it with a certain nonproductive crop and are ready to yank it out, that's when it finally begins to produce. I was looking at my pole beans a couple of weeks ago and wanting to scold them. They were at the top of the trellis with growth trailing back down to the ground and didn't have a bloom on them. I knew the hot weather wasn't far away and was getting frustrated with them. Then, bam! A day or two later, blooms started appearing and I stopped worrying.

One more thing. Maybe you are being too kind to your plants. Maybe you should let them get a little bit dry. Here's why: plants have an biological imperative to produce seeds to ensure their next generation will occur. When they are pampered and the living is easy, their current generation does not seem to be at risk so they mosey along and don't get in any big hurry to produce seed to ensure another generation will grow after they are gone. But, just let something happen to them that makes it seem like their future is in doubt, and they sometimes will kick into production of seed to ensure their species' long-term survival. So, if you let them get on the dry side for the next few days, they might respond by blooming and setting some lovely bean seeds, which you then can harvest and eat.

Finally, if you are not opposed to using a synthetic fertilizer like Miracle Grow, sometimes you can push tardy bean plants to produce flowers by feeding them a Bloom Booster version of MG or some other water-soluble fertilizer. I have strategically used a Bloom Booster during hot, dry summer weather if tomatoes are not producing due to high temperatures that are causing blossom drop. When we have a big, cool front forecast to bring some nice summer rain, I'll feed the nonproductive tomato plants with a Bloom Booster about 5-7 or even 7-10 days before the cool front is expected. Know why? Because if I can push those plants into blooming during the cool spell, the blooms might get pollinated/fertilized and set fruit that we're otherwise not getting because the weather is too hot. Perhaps the tomato plants would be blooming on their own when the cool front arrives, but why leave that to chance? In some horrifically hot and dry summers when drought has dominated the garden season, I've got great mid-summer tomato fruitset by doing this. I haven't tried it with beans, but it ought to work the same way as long as the temperatures are cooperating. We're not yet hot enough here for blossom drop to be a problem, so there's a chance you could use a Bloom Booster now and get beans to set before the real summer heat sets in.

Thanks Dawn. Great ideas. This is my first try at RGGS. I've tried other "systems" and always to struggle with something. I know, that's the nature of the beast, but, I did figure out one thing. Usually, I bite of more than I can chew, get overwhelmed in the heat of the season, or something happens and I get distracted. Last summer my wife got a new kidney so, between surgery, hospital time, recuperating, tending the kids, and generally being a single parent and nurse there was no time to do anything in the garden so it became a jungle. This year it's small scale. I about 10 planters, and the beans, so far are the only ones giving me grief. I'm going to ease into things this year and hopefully actually enjoy it instead of wondering how I'm going to keep up.