Rhodies like it acid, but they can adjust to many different pH levels. I'm successfully growing a gorgeous rhododendron at a pH of 6.6, well above what they normally tolerate, much less flourish in.

Most tests you buy for pH are terrible, accurate to an unknown level, and generally better at reading the pH of your water than of the soil. Skip those. If you feel you want to, have the soil tested using Logan Labs in Ohio. For $25, they'll tell you everything you ever wanted to know about your soil...which you can then post here to have explained what it actually means. :-)

However, you may not need to. Rhodies flourish in highly organic soils, so keep them mulched. Compost or hardwood mulch are both great for surface application, and they'll work in over time. Increasing organic matter also makes your pH matter a lot less, which is the reason mine tolerate ridiculously high pH levels.

They like morning sun, afternoon shade, but tolerate almost anything from 90% shade to 90% sun. Those in sun will require more water, so keep an eye on them and water when they get dry. Those in more shade will be a bit more sparse and not bloom well, but they'll manage.

They feature shallow but wide root systems, so make sure to water well past the drip line--about a third again wider than the bush on all sides. Shallow root systems also mean they're not very tolerant of drought (comparatively speaking--being larger, they're much more tolerant than grass is). It's best to water them once a week in dry periods.

I feed mine with the gardens, so weekly through the season--but very, very gently at any one time to keep a trickle of resources flowing at all times. That's unrealistic for most people, so simply feed them just after blooming. You can use any lawn fertilizer (without any weed or insect killer!), a rhododendron fertilizer, Holly-Tone, or any organic like Milorganite.

Milorganite bears mentioning here. Rhodies in higher pH soils tend to be chlorotic (yellow). A healthy rhodie looks like something a dinosaur might have walked past in the jungle, and is very deep green and looks great, with dense leaves and no holes. Milorganite contains tons of iron to combat chlorosis, feeds gently, and helps transform the soil for the shrub. A double handful per bush in May and again in June feeds the plant beautifully for the year.

Don't feed heavily after late June; the plant is starting to set buds for the following year and feeding after that point will reduce blossoming the following year. Light feeding, like I do, or feeding organically, will be fine as it won't suppress bud development.

Thank you very much!