I've heard that dutchman's pipe has some very unpleasantly fragrant flowers. However, I've never smelled them myself.

I'm dealing with a similar problem, in a similar zone, or so it sounds like. How much space do you have? What size area do you need to screen? And what kind of sun does it get? I might have some ideas from my research that could help you.

Wouldn't Dutchman's Pipe be an annual in zone 5? I"m in zone 6 and someone sent me a plant. I also read about the unpleasant frangrance. It's not something I would have chosen to grow myself.

I had such a vine in my old yard (zone 5) and it had small flowers - not hte large ones. I never detected an odor at all.

I think it would be useful to establish exactly which species is being referred to as 'Dutchman's Pipe'. There are many and they vary in hardiness. Note that Aristolochias are poisonous.

We have Dutchman's Pipe growing up our front porch - it was established when we moved here. It is OK, and does give dense foliage. I have noticed no smell or fragrance from it - the flowers are unique and quite easy to miss. On the negative side, it is rooting into all of the little garden there. Given the choice I probably not put it in a new location. Maybe hops? Or as others have said clematis, but yes, they will take while to give privacy. Good luck Ianna!! :)

Nancy.

I'll consider all as I go through more research into this. My problem is my yard is small now, postcard sized and I believe it's mostly backfill - hardpack clay. Really hardpack. So its going to be a huge work in progress just working that soil. I'm hopeful I can get it to the point, earth worms would come back. Even in my front yard which is now packed with perennials, I hardly see any earthworm which are sure signs of healthy soil.

"hardpack clay. Really hardpack. So its going to be a huge work in progress just working that soil."

Start collection organic matter and spread it or turn it into the areas of the yard you will be planting. I've at times used a digging fork to just loosen the soil where compacted (plunge in, pull back or wiggle, pull back out, repeat) rather than digging, and then spread organic matter on top. You can do that to improve the soil while you plan so that when you're ready to plant, the soil is in better shape for your plants. You could also plant a deep-rooted green manure crop such as annual rye grass or buckwheat to help break up the soil and add organics. Just mow it down before it goes to seed. Some free sources of organic matter I've used:

Manure from a neighbor's horses, but you could also use chicken manure if neighbors have chickens (as is legal in some cities) as long as it will have time to age, or manure from pet rabbits.

Wood shavings from wood turners or other woodworkers. Chips from tree trimmers - I just ask if I see them in my area, and they will dump on the drive and I just have to wheel barrow them around to where I want them or pile onto a tarp and pull. Adding nitrogen will speed up the break down of woody material. Best if it's just spread on the surface, since breakdown can take a while and may tie up nitrogen if it's turned in. But it will keep the soil evenly moist and the smaller it is with more green matter like leaves, the faster it will break down. It's also a great top coat for newspaper or cardboard.

Leaves - When we were just starting, we picked up other folks' bagged leaves from the curb. We avoided homes with pristine lawns since they may have used weed-n-feed, which has herbicides that may create garden problems.

Some towns have free compost available for residents, but you have to haul it yourself. Buckets or heavy trash bags full in your car, or a borrowed or rented truck may be used for transport. Around me the big box stores rent trucks by the hour.

Newspaper and cardboard - I layer this in and it breaks down fairly quickly, but reduces weeds and grass sprouting from empty beds. If there are things already growing I don't want, I cut them short, and then put several layers of newspapers (black and white only) or a layer of cardboard down and then top with something like woodchips for a tidy appearance and to hold them down until I get around to planting. When I spread compost which may have weed seeds, or manure which usually has seeds, I top that with newspaper or cardboard and then woodchips. When I am ready to plant, I move aside the woodchips, plant, and then push the woodchips back to near, but not against stems.

Bought, but less expensive sources of organic matter include anything you can pick up or get delivered by the truckload rather than bag by bag. A single pickup load of compost will probably take care of the entire garden several inches deep. Plan the day of delivery and hire a teenager or two to help move it if you don't have the energy to get it moved out of the dump spot on your own.

I'd love to hear how this project goes for you.

thanks. I think the only way the soil will improve is if I use a jackhammer to break it up - seriously. I know what I need to do to improve the soil but I suppose lots of patience and back breaking work is required.