Thank you, rgreen48! I want to add peat moss in order to decrease the ph to around 6-6.5. Why would you not recommend it? Or should I add it in spring?

Since it takes the Soil Food Web a bit of time to digest the organic matter that is compost and make the nutrients that compost contains available to plants it makes more sense to put compost onto the planting beds in the fall to give the SFW that time. Do not "scratch" in some fertilizer without a good reliable soil test to guide that addition. Excess amounts of fertilizers can easily create more problems than it would cure.

Many people advocate adding Peat Moss to lower soil pH but my experience is much different. Some years ago I wanted to plant some blueberries and tested the soil where they were to go and found that soil had a pH of 5.7. To lower it to below 5.0 I tilled in 3.8 cubic feet of Peat Moss into the 4 x 4 planting bed and retested a year later only to find the soil pH in that bed was now 7.2. Not what I wanted. I did adjust that beds soil pH with sulfur, however.

What is the soil pH of that bed now?

kimmq is kimmsr

Especially if pH is something you are interested in affecting, I think the soil test that kimmq recommends is a good idea. I have no reason to doubt kimmq's experience, but peat certainly can lower pH. Perhaps the source can make a difference? Anyway, my first question would be to ask what is causing you to think pH is high?

There are a number of products that can function in the same way as peat. Compost is one of the best soil conditioners around, and naturally tends to buffer pH to around the 6.5 mark. Composted manures are also good additions to improve fertility, condition soils, add organic matter, and keep pH at a good level for raised bed gardens. There are many more comparable products, including coir, and 'meals'.

Peat is an unsustainable resource, and it must be transported long distances. If it dries out, it becomes water 'repellent' and can be difficult to re-wet. It is organic matter, but it takes a long time to break down. Some people see this as a positive, but the soil web thrives under conditions of decomposition.

All that said, it does have its specific uses. I too added it to my clay when planting blueberries. This was 2 years ago. I also added sulfur. The plants are doing well, but it's time for a soil test.

So, in short... peat isn't evil-incarnate lol, but there are many products that perform the same functions and are, what I consider, 'better' choices. Get that soil test done now and you'll be in a good position to know what your best amendment options are for Fall.

Peat is not a good soil amendment - if it dries out, it stays dry.

Why do you think you need to "increase fertility"? Are your plants not thriving?

Why do you want the pH lower? What are you growing? What is the current pH?

My family has been trying to grow wax begonias in the raised bed (which is located in front of my house) for the past few years, but they don't seem to be thriving, but they don't die. They stay small and the leaves aren't very dark green. I don't know what kind of soil was initially dumped in it. I've actually never seen any earthworms whenever I tilt the soil or do the planting.

The ph is around 8. I'd like to reduce it to around 6-6.5. I live in Canada, so there are a lot of bags of peat moss sold at a low price. I don't think peat would dry out if you mix it with the soil or compost. I have elemental sulfur, but I never know how much to add...

A good reliable soil test is needed here, unfortunately AgCanada does not do them although there are several soil testing labs around you could use. Among the things a soil test lab should provide would be recommendations about how to correct problems indicated, ie. how much sulfur would be needed to adjust soil pH.

In addition to that soil test these simple soil tests may be of some help.

1) Soil test for organic
material. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in
a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and
replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24
hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight.
For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the
bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above
that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top.

2) Drainage. Dig a hole
1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains
away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain
away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains’ too quickly and needs
more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the
soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up.

3) Tilth. Take a handful
of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is
released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a
finger that clump should fall apart.

4) Smell. What does your
soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant
odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria
will be and the nicer your soil will smell, to a point. Too much organic matter
can be bad as well.

5) Life. How many
earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5,
according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that
is not healthy.

kimmq is kimmsr

Wax begonias are notoriously pick plants.

If they aren't thriving, I would suspect uneven moisture, and perhaps too much sun. They need evenly moist conditions to thrive.

" I would be adding a lot of municipal compost, mostly made of small branches, leaves, grass (garden stuff), etc."

If you can still see branches, leaves, etc, then it is not compost - just the raw materials that can become compost given moisture + air + time. This is a big difference if you are trying to increase soil fertility. What you want to add in the fall is finished (or at least advanced) compost, minerals, and nutrients (P/K) that take time to break down for the plants. Then either cover crop, or mulch heavily to prevent spring weeds. (The leaves and branches would be a great mulch.)

I'm not sure how to respond to individual quotes.

"Peat is not a good soil amendment - if it dries out, it stays dry."

No - it doesn't. At all, whatsoever. Yes, it can become hydrophobic but it simply takes a little longer to retain moisture. Maybe it'll take a couple waterings but of course it'll moisten back up.

"don't think peat would dry out if you mix it with the soil or compost"

Youre re absolutely right - it won't. It's a fine idea, IMO.

RD, have you thought about using leaf mold? Just another option and it's free. Excellent water retention while at the same time it drains perfect and will probably provide everything your flowers need in the way of nutrition.

J

The pH of peat moss ranges from 4.7 to 5.2, according to most web sites that do list that information. Tree leaves have a pH in the 3.2 to 4.2 range and they do not change a soils pH significantly so why would peat moss? A study done some years ago by Abigail Maynard, PhD in soil science at the UCONN New Haven Agricultural Research Station found that years of adding Oak leaves or pine needles did not significantly affect soil pH and both have a pH lower than peat moss does.

Peat moss is a non renewable resource that requires a lot of non renewable resources to reap. There are other, and better, materials that can be used instead.

kimmq is kimmsr

While pine needles are acidic while they're green, their pH significantly balances out when they die and drop to the ground and even further when they begin to decay.

From the University of Minnesota Extension - cite: http://www.extension.umn.edu/garden/landscaping/implement/soil_ph.html

"Organic compounds such as sphagnum peat moss, compost, and manure can be used to lower soil pH. Table 5 provides the approximate application rate used to lower soil pH by one unit.

Table 5. Pounds of Organic Compound needed to lower soil pH by one unit (lbs. per 1 square yard)Compound Type: Peat Moss 2.5 Pounds, Compost 14 Pounds, Manure 5 Pounds

j