Sounds like you are already doing research, but just some things to mention.

Blueberries like lower pH soil. You may want to test the soil where you will be putting them.

Desert King is well known for being a great fig in the PNW, I would check the figs4fun forum for other varieties that do well there.

Tree size will vary by cultivar and rootstock, you can determine the ultimate height by pruning. Keeping a tree at a manageable height via pruning is much easier than letting it grow to it's natural height and then using poles & ladders.

Fruit trees usually are recommend to be planted in native soil, without amendments, sometimes on a mound if you have poorly draining soil.

Wood chips are a good mulch that can be got free from tree trimmers

Sounds like you have a lot to do, don't know why you want it all done by fall. All of these things can be planted dormant/bare root right when spring is starting so don't rush anything.

around here I just assume all the soil is acid because we get so much rain. I know plenty of folks who plant blue- and caneberries and never amend or fertilize or do anything at all except tie up in the spring, cut down in the fall, and harvest fruit. But your idea is good as the soil may have been sweetened by the previous owner.

My only reason for doing so much this fall is the age of my kids - I don't want them to be too much older before we start harvesting as I think they will enjoy it.

Rushing into a project to hit arbitrary harvest dates is not a good idea. Planting things that you know may not succeed is not a good idea. I would take a step back and plan for a Spring planting of what works in your area.

There's nothing I've mentioned or am planning to plant that is suspect. Desert king figs are well established in this area and not borderline for the zone. We are the berry capital of the US and wild raspberries, blackberries, blueberries, salmonberries, and thimbleberries grow out of our ears, and in the brambles, and in the woods. The berries are easy once established. I had some success with a persimmon before.

My question is really about spacing, orientation, and the best way to keep weeds down between rows in an orchard.

A friend of mine just filled me in on some of this. He plants his marionberry hills 4 feet apart and gets 1/2-1 gallon of berries per hill. Raspberry hills 3 feet apart. Rows 6-8 feet apart. He uses heavy gauge farming wire tied up between metal stakes and when the marionberry canes get long in the fall he twists them up and around the wires to form "o" shaped windows between the metal stakes; then in the spring the berries grow into the opening for easy picking. That sounds like a good way to do it.

This article may be of assistance to you in choosing your fig varities. It is about the best figs to grow in cooler, PNW-type climates.

http://m.sfgate.com/homeandgarden/article/Hot-figs-to-grow-in-cool-places-3259824.php

My thoughts have been refined as follows. Keep in mind the area is 100 ft north-south and 80 ft east-west. On the far eastern border are 5 dwarf apple and 1 dwarf sour pie cherry trees. Elsewhere I already have a very productive 60 year old Barlett pear tree which gave us several hundred wonderful fruit this summer from about Aug 1 through this week.

Rows will be north-south so 100 feet long

1 row blueberries (a mix of early, mid, and late season)

1 row raspberries (mostly June-bearing, maybe 1/3 everbearing)

1/2 row marionberries

1/2 row table grapes (3 varieties highly recommended for Portland area)

3 persimmon - likely Izu

1 late season pear

2 plum

1 peach (think will do well if I pick the right varietal, spray for peach curl early in life, and possibly provide an umbrella during winter rains the first few years as well)

2 fig - desert King and 1 other

1/2 row asparagus (Larac and 1 other, probably jersey King)

This should leave plenty of space between rows to not feel crowded or over shade trees. I will put sod down between the rows in a width exactly matching the width of my riding mower.

What do you think of this plan?

Hi there, re your 1 late season pear: Keep in mind that like apples, most pears need a pollinator variety so may have to end up getting at least two. I can't suggest any varieties specific to your area as I live in different zone & country.

For your other fig, maybe I could recommend Olympian?

It was found growing wild up there in the PNW, so unlike many figs that will "tolerate" your PNW conditions, the Olympian fig likes them!

Its also said to be quite tasty as well.

Just something worth looking into!

generally speaking, you probably want your tallest trees to the west side of the garden, as eastern morning light is the most beneficial for growing. You didn't say if you are getting standard, semi-dwarf, or dwarf trees, but where you buy should be able to tell you maximum heights to expect.

You also may want to order your plants by pH preference, keeping the low pH blueberries away from some that like a more alkaline soil. You can google pH preferences easily. Figs like a southern exposure against a wall warm if possible.

I have tried small pepper round cages for raspberries and liked it better than a row of wires. just easier to get to them.