Very initial thought is not enough sun/warmth and too much water but I will stand by for further details. No leaves means no watering.

Oh my, that's a lot of pressure to make this plant thrive. I see the base of one branch is rotted and I suspect that may be a problem through out.

Did the roots seem healthy when it was transplanted? No leaves often means poor roots, too.

It might help to cut as Gigi suggested, to see how much latex sap is flowing. Good white sap flow means healthy tissue.

Does this plant live inside? If so, that's a problem. They are trees and need to be outside when temps are above 40 degrees F. Good luck to you!

rampage: Not enough information. Where do you live? and what are its growing conditions like. Looks like it's indoors and that's a big no-no.

I live in tacoma washington. We thought it was too cold outside but lately its stayed about 50 even at night. We have had a grow light in the room with it and its in the sunniest window we have. The light is kept at a good distance to not burn the leaves(when it had them) The roots looked good when they replanted it about a month ago. I do think you guys are right and the soil is wrong. It is still holding water and we have not watered it in over a week. I did poke it with a needle this morning and got no sap, tried a couple places, does the cut need to be bigger?

Thanks everyone.

Hmmm are the branches firm? The plumeria rot spreads rapidly and can kill the entire plant. I prefer 12+ Inches cuttings if i suspect rotting. If the newly cut branch does not have sap, this gives me room to cut more until I see white saps flowing. Per my experience a 6 inches or less cutting isharder to root and it takes longer for it to bloom because it needs to get tall again before it can bloom.

The one thing I can add to all the previous comment is to look at the pot. Giving the nursery the benefit of the doubt about the soil. Check that the pot actually has really good drainage. One, even three holes won't be enough, especially if it's indoors and not being warmed by the sun.

The thing I find helps with glazed pots (which is what it looks like you have), is to put a layer of pebbles on the bottom of the pot to help drain excess water away from the roots. The holes might be blocked so what I do is, poke through it with a stick, once it opens you will see all the water pouring out and then you just have to keep poking around a little bit just to make some room for future watering.

You can also add sand to the soil. If you don't want to move the plant again. Take soil out from the sides, as deep as you can, mix that soil with sand and then fill it up again.

I hope this helps.

In my opinion I actually would not recommend sand - possibly if it was an extremely coarse, very large grain sand but otherwise it will actually keep your soil very wet and possibly impede drainage more. You definitely need drainage holes in the pot and you don't want to let the plant sit in water on a saucer, tray or inside another pot with no drainage.

I agree with Gigi that a simple soil mixture for you to obtain would be potting soil and add 50-60% perlite - heck, maybe more if you're experiencing cooler temps / indoors. Both of those products are readily available at the big box stores.

elucas101

Fair enough. I have to say I am a bit of a wild gardener, I just use what I have at the time I need something, in my plumeria re potting, I used my kids play sand, ( this probably comes from growing up with not much money to throw around ) But of course I wouldn't recommend it to anyone. I borrowed this idea from my camellia growing, they also don't like wet feet. My nursery guru actually said it was ok to do so, at least for the camellias.

I do have to clarify that it's a little sand, about two handfuls in a 20 cm pot of soil.

By the way I'm really learning a lot with all the comments, they are very constructive. So glad I found this site.