Yes definitely pot then up after they develop true leaves. I start my brassicas in cell packs and then pot them up to 4" pots or 18 oz. solo cups after about 2 weeks. You want to make sure that they don't get root bound as that can cause 'buttoning' where they only produce small button heads on the broccoli and cauliflower. I plant my brassicas out at about 4-5 weeks after hardening off properly for 10 days or so.

Thank you, LoneJack. I appreciate it! I will do that today.

I love growing under lights. Here's my favorite light called the Aspect. You can find it at www.soltechsolutionsllc.com/aspect/. It's pretty much a gallery light that grows your plants and turns your indoor garden project into an art piece.

I do what Lone Jack does. You don't want your cauliflower and broccoli to stall in growth because they are rootbound as you can get the button heads many weeks later. By the time you are seeing tiny buttonheads instead of big heads, you may forget you had trouble with rootbound seedlings and be left forever wondering why the plants didn't produce properly. Becoming rootbound is the reason many purchased broccoli and cauliflower plants buttonhead a couple of months after they're bought and transplanted, and is one reason I prefer to grow my own.

Spinach germinates best at temperatures of 59 and lower, although you might get half the seeds to germinate at up to 65-70 degrees. You can sometimes trick it into germinating by putting the seeds in a cup of water in the fridge for a couple of days where the cool water and temperatures set the germination process in motion, or you can sprout the seeds in the fridge in a wet paper towel (or in soil-less mix in a small flat). I don't like leaving the seeds in the fridge more than a couple of days because the seeds germinate so slowly at cold temperatures. Just having a bit of cold, moist stratification seems to help induce germination

Spinach really isn't crazy about being transplanted, so disturb the roots as little as possible when you put the plants in the ground in September.

Thanks, Dawn. I will do the refrigerator thing. The only reason I'm starting them indoors is because I know that once I mess with the garden soil, the weeds will overtake the bed before the seeds sprout. I will have to quickly plant and mulch. I don't know how I'm gonna get the carrots to grow just due to that fact alone. This past year my whole yard, and my neighbors, have seen almost a complete replacement of grass with fast growing weeds and invasive grasses that I really don't know what they all are, and neither does he. We talked the other night, and the only thing we can think of is that they have blown in on the wind.

Somewhere on here there is a thread about starting seeds in TP rolls and planting the whole thing. I do that with peas in the spring.

I also pot up broccoli in 5 oz paper cups which I plant after ripping out the bottom. This is because the cutworms are abundant in my garden and will cut off as much as 1/3 of my plants if I don't protect them. Last year I direct seeded broccoli in late August if memory serves, and picked the last broccoli in late December. The heads weren't as big as spring broccoli, but they did produce.

Thanks for the tip, mulberryknob.

Sorry, I missed a lot of the comments. Mulberryknob, I bought 5 oz cups, and was going to use them but the broccoli seedlings were lanky...even under the lights, so I ended up potting them up into 16 oz solo cups, where I could bury their stems. I've got the 5 oz for other projects now, like maybe the cabbage. They are getting their first true leaves, but aren't lanky like the broccoli.