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midwestguy33

Leaking Window Help

10 years ago

I am hoping to get some advice on how to help seal my windows better. House was built about 10 years ago. Windows are Crestline single hung vinyl. I argued with the builder when we had the house built (they are now out of business) that I wanted better windows but they said they did not offer any others. The winter after we moved in we had terrible drafts (to the point where a lighter next to upstairs windows would almost blow out on really windy days) and we contacted the builder. The builder then contacted Crestline who sent a rep out. Crestline said windows were fine and hinted it might be a framing issue (we later heard from neighbors that framer was owner's son and was kind of a screw up). I could probably tear out the drywall around the windows (and maybe even reframe with oak) but I'm not sure how I could insulate better. I even went out to the house when it was being built and stuffed Poly-Foam Caulk Backer Rod Weatherstrip.

Cap along side of windows

Area between window and siding trim (pulled apart). I believe the windows had outside "tabs" or "wings" on the outside that were nailed to the plywood. The "wings" were than taped over or sealed with a red shiny tape (you can see it in the pictures):

The red tape (called J.W. Venture Tape)

So any suggestions on how to seal the outside better?

Comments (15)

  • PRO
    10 years ago

    Unless you are going to pull off all the siding on the exterior, seal everything up, and re-side, there isn't much net effect/benefit that you will make on that end of things.


    Honestly, best thing you can do is air seal and insulate the attic. That will decrease the drafts around all the windows and doors as well as make the home tighter in general.

  • PRO
    10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    The issue probably has more to do with the fact that they are cresline windows ( low quality). Investing in a higher end vinyl window will solve most of the problem. We have changed out hundreds upon hundreds of 10-15 year old crestline windows with great results. My customers always tell me it was well worth the extra cost.

    by the way, we do a standard replacement with foam. No need for a full tear out unless there is a lot of water damage and wood rot.

  • 10 years ago

    Thanks to both of you. A couple of follow up questions:


    1. Can you please explain how adding insulation/fixing air leaks in the attic help the window leaks?

    2. What is a better brand of windows to replace the Crestlines with? I'm not looking for "top of the line"....just something better (best bang for the buck).

    3. How much should I budget per window for replacement (ballpark)?

    4. Is this something a DIYer can do? I am very handy and have all the tools. I've built decks, worked on finishing basements, etc in the past).


  • 10 years ago

    Thanks Windows! Can anyone answer my questions 2 through 4 above?

  • PRO
    10 years ago

    Window options are somewhat regional. The better brands in our area are Soft-Lite Elements, Sunrise Restorations, and Okna Envirostar.


    Budget totally depends on area. Best bet is to just get some quotes on several windows in a category that are of similar performance and see how they compare.


    Possibly. The bigger issue is the trim work on the outside. It requires a more specialty tool set and is a bit of an acquired skill. If the windows you were replacing were wood, the process is less specialty intensive.

  • 10 years ago

    I worked on the windows some this weekend. I took a leaf blower and blew air against the window from the outside. Using an incense stick inside, it seems the windows are leaking around the lower sash. I then pried off the trim/track where the lower sash slides up and down on (this track compresses in so that the lower sash can be removed). I also removed the trim where the bottom of the bottom sash meets the sill. The tracks on the sides have a very light foam in them and the bottom trim was empty. The only caulk anywhere on the windows are on the bottom corners where the side track meets the bottom trim (this was installed by the Crestline rep after we originally complained). I also found a lot of dirt inside both these so obviously air is entering them. So I think this might be a large part of my issue. Here are some pictures:

    Side track with light foam


    Side track with light foam (notice the dirt on the foam)


    Picture of track with lower sash installed

    Bottom trim (hole with dirt in it is where the side track normally fits in)


    Bottom trim removed


    Bottom trim and side track removed


    So I am wondering the following:

    1. Is the hollow bottom trim and very lightly insulated side track normal? Do you think this is where my problem is?

    2. Can I insulate these? If so, any suggestions?

    3. I'm assuming caulking better would help too? If so, where do I need to caulk?

    Thanks!

  • PRO
    10 years ago
    1. Normal, not on most windows. Seems to be a bit reverse engineered if you ask me. You problem is more in the design of the window to be honest.


    1. You could insulate that side track with some additional compression foam, but do not run it near the bottom of the track. That will obstruct drainage and create issues for the window.


    1. You shouldn't need to caulk unless the window has a broken weld and is leaking water.
  • 10 years ago

    Thanks! What about the bottom trim piece (where the bottom sash meets the frame/sill)? Can I insulate that with foam too or will that obstruct drainage?

  • 10 years ago

    Amigo, the best installer in our universe wont fix that window. Those windows are below builders grade and thats being nice. I would seriously consider investing in a quality replacement window by a highly rated window company.

    those are some poor quality windows.

  • 10 years ago

    Can't afford new windows now so that's not an option. Thanks though.

  • PRO
    10 years ago

    Don't put anything under the sill piece. You need everything there to drain freely.

  • 10 years ago

    In this instance would a storm window help? Specifically I'm looking at the Larson windows:

    https://www.larsondoors.com/storm-doors/product-details?CG=88

    https://www.larsondoors.com/storm-doors/product-details?CG=87


  • PRO
    10 years ago

    I would take the storm money and start replacing the vinyl.

  • PRO
    10 years ago

    +1

    Spending money on some storms is like spending good money chasing bad in my opinion. There isn't much about that primary window that is worth salvaging to be honest. Sorry for the negative outlook, but it is mostly the truth.