https://www.houzz.com/magazine/ditch-the-ordinary-ditch-create-a-realistic-dry-creek-bed-stsetivw-vs~26700302

http://www.bhg.com/gardening/landscaping-projects/landscape-basics/how-to-create-a-dry-creek/#page=0

Are you looking for dry creek because you think it's the only option, or because you like and would add it anyway?

I think we need it. We get so much water because we are down in the valley and it just gushes down from the ridge. We have had a ton of rain this year and the driveway is always washing out and the water from this trench is ending up in the pond and it makes it look super dirty and I don't want the sediment. Do you have another idea?

I'm worried it will look unnatural...especial at the beginning. Trying to figure out the landscaping in this area...we will have crushed rock on the long side of the barn. At the end (overlooking the pond) we will have a grass patio area and possibly a pool. Want to seclude the patio/pool area, but don't want to block view of pond. Trying to tie this all into the dry creek bed??!! Help!

like this simplicity as well...

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Chances are good that the problem begins upstream of where the damage is showing up. You may be concentrating water so that by the time it reaches a certain point, it's a destructive stream. There are probably some things can could be identified here on the forum, but the chances of you producing the photos that make it clear, are slim. And there's not a good way to coach you through producing good photos, as what needs to be seen is the entire drainage path, from the right viewpoints. You would likely be best served by consulting with a landscape architect. You could evaluate the problem to see if water could be managed in such a way so as not to have all of it washing out a particular area. If possible, that area could be healed making maintenance easier in the long run.

If creating a dry stream, keep in mind that water is capable of moving rocks as well as earth. A common mistake I see is using rocks that are too small. Also, "streams" are made too narrow and don't look natural. And what happens where grass invades the edge of the stream and can't be mowed. This is a potential maintenance nightmare.

what about something like this instead of rock?

California Country · More Info

If I use rock I would be using the old barn limstone foundation for the majority of the creek bed. I would bring in some bigger boulders, etc and use some smaller stones as well to make it more natural looking (is the possible?). I was thinking about doing a rain garden at beginning and then run the dry creek down the hill to another rain garden at the bottom before the pond...

It's hard for me to get enthused about projects using rock like this because, USUALLY, when they are done by homeowners, they are pretty much much half baked and end up looking like rocked dumped in a pile ... or they look skimpy ... or they are weak when it comes to artistic arrangement. (I'm talking about the law of averages ... not specifically the OP.) Later, when someone (which might be the original builder) wants to clean the mess up, they are faced with the unpleasant insurmountable task of moving tons and tons of rock material.

Per the recently added inspiration picture, I can't help but imagine it full of weeds. What fun that is going to be to take care of! Isn't there enough work to do on this farm now? And if plants couldn't stop erosion in the first place, how are they going to protect the drainage channel now?

You're talking about the addition of a pool and patio and incorporating the pond view. I imagine there are things that will eventually happen at other places on the property that have not been mentioned. It sounds like there's a need for someone to take a comprehensive look at how all the development will fit together and function properly (without self-destructing from erosion.) By not looking at this properly, you're not going to save a nickel. In fact, the likelihood of doing work that must later be undone, or will cause defects that must be "lived with" will be high.

So far, your pictures don't show anything that can't be fixed. They also don't show what might be the cause (HOW you're channeling water.) Yet you seem ready to slap on a multi-thousands of dollars Band-aid that will be more multi-thousands of dollars to clean up if that day ever comes. It seems to me you are jumping the gun on this project if you don't first analyze the cause.

Thanks so much for taking the time to help me with this! I used a landscape company to help with the pond reshaping this spring, I'll pick his brain about the run off. I'm cleaning up the big pile of dirt and rock that you can see in the photo, so I was hoping I wouldn't have to move it more than once and it could possibly solve the trench issue...guess I need to slow down...

Keep in mind that skills of people who are connected with a landscape companies vary widely. You need someone who has DRAINAGE DESIGN expertise. Not just someone who can follow a planting plan.

This is what I am battling now - I live in a rural area, in a valley, surrounded by farm fields and the previous owner cut a trench for drainage and lined the whole thing with gravel and various sized rocks. It is a maintenance nightmare and an eyesore. We have to weed whack the whole thing (140') because of the grass and weeds that have grown amongst the rocks.

I'm glad you are slowing down and giving it a second thought Patty.

Greenhearted, what do you advise instead of dry creek bed?

Patty, we are not addressing this problem right now as we are saving up for a new roof, so I haven't researched all my options yet. I initially envisioned a bioswale type thing but then realized 140' feet of plants to tend to in addition to all that I already have is probably more than I can handle. Especially since we don't use chemical controls and I hand weed everything.

But I do have a friend in the industry who looked things over and suggested we do a wider, gentle sloped ditch that we could mow and perforated drain tile along the bottom.

I hope when you figure out a solution that you'll post how things go as I am very interested! Good luck!

I looked at the bioswale idea as well..check out the pic above. Thanks so much for your reply. All the water comes off the ridge and runs in this area...so it is a mess. I'm still thinking about the creek bed....at least in part of the area. I've also considered rain gardens...I'm guessing weeds would be a big problem here as well:(

Where are you located?

Near Lacrosse wi, I pinkmountain

Yes, in the inspiration pic you posted it certainly is beautiful! However, I fear without a full time gardener, mine would eventually look like a jungle :)

I will say this - the previous owner kept the "dry creek" clear of weeds by spraying a metric ton of round up. I suspect the pictures of perfectly neat dry creek beds in the middle of soil rich enough to support an emerald lawn are treated the same. I can not in good conscience rely on this as a way to maintain my property, especially since the water from our property directly drains into a stream that supports a lot of wildlife.

Ok, stepping off my soapbox now ;-) I hope you can find a solution which is pleasing to you and the beautiful piece of nature you have!

I have the same situation with water running into pond then creek...I know they make a product similar to Roundup that is safe for fish, etc. I will have to look into it...or weed wack and hand weed:(

I would not attempt to make a dry creek bed full of rock if you want a more naturalistic appearance. Rather the rain garden concept works well if you get adequate rain to keep the plants you want alive. The stream channel should undulate in width so its not a straight shot channel (like an engineer would design). A series of "check dams" should be built every 15 feet or so to help form terraced levels that would eventually capture sediment and also slow down the flow of water. Plant grasses and native plant seeds aggressively to help compete with any weed seeds.

A thick landscape fabric between the underlying soil and the rock stream will keep soil from mixing with the rock and reduce sedimentation of the pond. If you dont use a fabric liner, all the loose soil will be carried down into the pond. Minimize sediment from entering the beginning of the stream by using bioswales that will eventually get covered over with vegetation, otherwise they look like an erosion control project - not a final design that is aesthetically pleasing.

Like Yardvaark said, you need a landscaper who has a good sense for artistic placement of boulders, rock and plants as well as a good understanding of erosion control, sedimentation, and drainage in general. Key is to slow the water down because the higher the velocity the more erosive it will be both to the soil as well and moving the smaller rock material that is not wedged in place.

The only thing I would like to add is you don't have to chose between a weedy bioswale and blasting it with Roundup or some other type of weed killer. There are ways to artfully chose plants that will fill in and cover the ground and provide interest yet stay low, such as in your inspiration picture. They require some weeding but no more work than blasting with weed killer every couple of weeks. But you need to find a good landscaper, one who knows about rocks and water and putting the right plants in the right place. They are out there but not your typical landscaper, who is often more of a garden bed designer, and from what I've seen of landscaping around me, not even that talented on average. Look at the portfolios of the designers and see if they have done similar kinds of spaces. There are folks who specialize in rock and waterscaping. But "BUYER BEWARE." This is tricky and if you do it wrong you will have no end of erosion and water problems. Check references and again, check their qualifications. I am in the midst of finding such a good person, to clean up what a poor designer left me with. One of the biggest issues is just what JSL warns you against, not properly understanding how to slow water down and channeling it properly.

Agree with the comments above about finding the right designer and contractor. You want someone with "rain garden", "bioretention area" or GSI (green stormwater infrastructure) experience. I work with commercial and municipal clients and I see a lot of good installations and some with design/construction flaws. There is a good book from Brad Lancaster, called "Rainwater Harvesting". He lives in Arizona so the book focuses on that bioregion, but it has a lot of good general advice and principles like "slow it, spread it, sink it".